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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '70 Elky that came from the Baltimore plant and was shipped to Carpenter's Inc. in Durham, NC. The guy I bought it from had bought it from some other guy in Vermont. Right now the Elky is in my garage here in Wallkill (40 miles north of NYC). The mileage is 41,268. Did it ever go over (to 00000)does anyone think and if it did how long ago do you think that happened?

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1970 Chevy Custom El Camino aka Kaileigh
Built on: November 25, 1969 in Baltimore
Green Mist #45 w/Green Vinyl Top
350ci/300HP 4bbl Small Block
Factory Dual Exhaust and Rally Wheels
My Elky Home Page www.dreamelectric.com
 

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Just judging by the amount of rust.....Nah, I'm sure the 41,268 is original......But I bet it's the 2nd time around.


You gotta just take it in stride Shawn.
:0 Keep an eye out for a 68-72 Chevelle/Elcamino to swap the good stuff into. You do have some desirable stuff on your Elky.


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DG
Springfield, Ohio
70 Chevelle Malibu

www.wright.edu/~adams.6/chevy.htm
TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
Genx member (Founder 4 Ohio)
 

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Yeah, I agree, it probably went over. How long ago, I'd say exactly 41,268 miles ago, give or take a few feet.


Whoa, wallkill is 40 miles from NYC? I thought it was waaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyy upstate. Where is it then, rockland county? or orange? Or are you on this side of the river? I grew up in Ossining (just north of the tappan zee bridge, on the east side of the hudson) and I'm in NYC now gettin my edjumacation. We should go for a ride sometime, as soon as I get my transmission to realize that when I put it in reverse, it's supposed to go backwards...


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Ian McDermott
1970 Chevelle SS 396
Gold Member #101
E-mail: [email protected]
Web page: chevelle.dhs.org
ICQ UIN: 3923441
 
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My son has a 71 Malibu that was my grandmothers car, bought new and kept in the garage, it has 41K and it is original, right down to the spark plug wires.

I had 19K on the clock until my fat ass sister started driving it as a beater, I made short work of that. That was in 87.

Cars can fool you on the milage.

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Wally
Gold #67
67 Malibu "Small Block"
90 SS454
71 Malibu "Small Block"
93 torch red vette
 

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Shawn,

While looking over you parts needed list I had a couple of thoughts.

1) Do what ABSOLUTELY needs to be done to make the Elky safe to drive FIRST THING. You mentioned that steering becomes heavy above 70mph, but no where on your list do I see anything about suspension and steering components. Changing the bushings on your ride can vastly improve both feel and safety. My 70SS had completely shot lower control arm bushings. The result was that my lower right ball joint PULLED THROUGH THE CONTROL ARM while I was driving. Steering, suspension, brakes first. Also get a wheel alignment and balance at the end of the job.

2) Make an Xcel spread sheet with all your pieces needed w/ pricing from various locations. Group things by related items, like Interior -> Seats: covers, buns, trim etc. Then allow yourself an "allowance" to spend each month, say $50. Buy the items on your list with the thought of accomplishing a certain task, ie. restoring seats. Instead of choking on a HUGE bill all at once you'll get the task done over a period of time. Easier to pocket.

3) That's a lot of rust. I mean ALOT of rust. You may be better off with a body/chasis shell sans motor/tranny as a donor. With luck you could find a candidate for under $500 or less. Swap the good things you have into it. Otherwise you'll be pissing a HUGE amount of time, effort, and money away. Chances are that with that amount of rust you will either miss some or some will come back. Either way that is the waste of a lot of effort. You may not have the stamina to tackle all that rust. You will start out with good intentions, but just won't have the stomach to finish the entire job. You may start cutting corners and you will be stuck with a rusting car all over again. Salvage what you can. Save some money and enjoy your final vehichle. You shouldn't look at the Elky and see it for its faults or frustrations. This body may be simply too far gone for a novice (no offense.)

I wish you the best of luck. I hope you get a really nice Elky back on the road.

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??michael j Team Chevelle Gold #77
70 Chevelle SS396 4sp, Fathom Blue/White Stripes - Canadian built
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks a lot guys and no offense taken, mike. I know all the bushings need replacing because most of them are cracked and dried out. An interesting thing I found was that where the shocks bolt up to the chassis, the bolts are loose. Is this dangerous? My car is pretty safe despite the rust. All the seat belts are there, all electrical stuff works, and the brakes include new rotors, new master cylinder, calipers with pads and the front to rear brake line. Also, what kind of desirable stuff is left on my Elky? There isn't much sheetmetal left that's usuable.
Havoc, that'd be great if we could go for a ride sometime. Wallkill is in Ulster county and that's on the west side of the river right above orange county. Where I live is a very little bit past the orange/ulster border.
 

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Shawn, a good running engine/tranny (you've mentioned it before), rear end, brakes, tilt, and the dash parts are things you will likely be able to swap into a 68-72 shell. I consider that good stuff. Might get lucky and find a solid Elky that just needs engine/trans.

So again, I agree with making it safe without spending $$ on cosmetic or sheetmetal repair. One of the toughest drag cars in this area is a 71 Nova with more rust holes than paint. Course, I think he runs 10's 'cuz there is $8k in the motor/tranny/rear.

Funny to watch his burnouts. There is as much tire smoke inside his car as outside.

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DG
Springfield, Ohio
70 Chevelle Malibu

www.wright.edu/~adams.6/chevy.htm
TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
Genx member (Founder 4 Ohio)
 
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