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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Had some contractors working on the house last week so sandblasting was on hold. Finished blasting yesterday.

Somebody on the site said it took them 12 hours. It took me 11-1/2 hours, so about right. 750 pounds of ground glass ($150). I didn't recycle any.

Somebody else on the site said you can never get all the sand out. After spending most of today on that, I believe it.

I'm shooting for Saturday to paint it. The SPI epoxy can't get under 65 degrees for 24 hours. So I need dry and warm. I can put it in the garage with a heater after painting.

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Nice Job.. It'll come easier when the brains says go for it.. and the Honey Do it Now list is lost somewhere..."Now where is that list?"
Keep up the great work!

Casey
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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Mine was blasted in 2016 and found some under the dash while installing the VA evap/blower case LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Well I got it painted last Saturday. Two good coats of SPI Epoxy primer.

I had rubbed it down with the SPI water based wax and grease remover per their recommendation even though it was freshly blasted. The blasted surface was very sharp from the ground glass media. My rag left lint on the surface that I couldn't really see. But the paint saw it.

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I didn't really notice when painting but the whole surface turned out like this.

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It is terrible. Only thing to do is sand it all down and repaint. I have it about 75% done today. Here it was yesterday.

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Should finish tomorrow and paint Monday if the weather is warm enough. Have to keep it above 65 degrees for 24 hours.

And there is lots of sand and acorn hulls under my plastic around the body. That stuff hides.
 

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Was it a reaction to the cleaning or what... caused the paint to bubble?
Sorry to hear it wasn't a one shot deal for you... Never is... Glad to hear it hasn't deterred you from moving ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Capt, I think the paint just built up around the lint. Not bubbled. I hope that was it, if not ??? It sanded smooth. I used the SPI water based wax and grease remover, worked fine on the frame.

Finished sanding it all today.
 

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I admire you keeping your eye on the goal . . . but oh my gosh, sand blasting that entire SOB again. As I once heard from the car whisperer, "I redid it as many times as it took to get it right."

Hope that is your last "redo" but the hot rod odds say, "Probably not." Thanks for sharing the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly!
DTB
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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Maybe a lint free cloth or can you brush the grease/wax remover on? and will it leave a film if you do brush it on? IIRC the shop just pressure washed my under carriage with plain water after cleaning it with solvents then painted it
 

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The one thing I learned while doing my car when I blasted the body, parts or the like, was to not use any cloth or paper towels.
I got the same thing that happened above. After blasting, I just wash the part down with brake cleaner to remove any rust, dust and greases.
Allow to air dry then paint. The bottom of the car is a different story. Glad you were able to get it cleaned up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Thanks for the confirmation men. Got lint free cloths ready and the surface is very smooth now, still 95% epoxy. SPI says you have to wipe the wax and grease remover off before it dries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Paint Day 2

After 2 dozen 2" Roloc metal prep discs, a stack of Scotchbrite pads, 10 hours of labor plus tack ragging, de-greasing with "lint free cloths she is ready to paint again.

Today was just warm enough to paint for the foreseeable future. It takes me 42 oz. of sprayable paint for one wet coat of the firewall, bottom and rear.

You can't tell good luck from bad. I got a much better final finish that I would have had originally, I painted much better the second time around, and got two good wet coats on.

Looks good.

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Here is the after pic same as the before shot shown above.

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
I am embarrassed to say that I have been working on brake lines for 3 weeks. Who knew that would be so hard.

I am using a RIDGID 345 flaring tool. I had a lot of trouble with the line slipping in the clamp. (Tip: lube the clamp screw threads and use a cheater bar on the clamp) I can get flares that look pretty close to OE now after adjusting the stick out and the final cone depth. I am using 3/16" PVF coated steel lines like the Vette had.

I have used 35 feet of #6 solid copper wire to make patterns for the lines. I have bent, straightened, bent again hundreds of times. Finished the patterns today.

It takes 4 hands and 2 brains to make a line. A friend helped me make the first one. We hope to make the rest this week.

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