Team Chevelle banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know what the correct radiator should be for a 1970 L34 SS-396 with Turbohydramatic 400 automatic transmission and air conditioning? I pulled the radiator out of my car to repaint it and discovered it wasn't the original. While I debate whether to buy a reproduction one, a repro with the Harrison name on it, or try to locate an original radiator and have it rebuilt, the more important question is if it should be a 3-row or 4-row radiator. The one I pulled out was 3-row, about 2" wide, but if I read the assembly manual correctly it should be a 4-row about 2 5/8" wide. Is that correct?

Also, other than the Parts Place's $695 Harrison repro radiator, anyone know who may sell original Harrison radiators (either already restored or needing restoration)? I'm trying to keep everything on the car original, so would prefer a Harrison radiator and to avoid $700 for a repro.

Thanks a lot!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
My original radiator is long gone, but I vividly recall it being a 3 row. L34, M40, C60, ZL3 El Camino. Van Nuys, 05A.

My tank sticker shows "PD88" in block 46 "radiator". This is not mentioned in the linked thread above. Any ideas for "PD88"? Thanks.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
132 Posts
A "PD" radiator is the 4-row radiator for an automatic car. You would need to find a complete PD radiator or the XP and IF tanks to make one. With your May build date you should be looking for a "D" or "E" dated XP tank (April or May). Having a radiator recored using original tanks runs about $500 (give or take), buying a reproduction will run you between $600-$1000 depending on who you go with. I think Hearbeat City is selling dated radiators, but they only offer an "A" date (January)...and they want $1000 for theirs. If you are going for the factory correct look, the reproduction radiators are easy to spot to the trained eye...so you might want to find an original radiator (or tanks) and have it restored.

I have a few PD radiators and some loose tanks...I can look and see if I have the correct date if you're interested?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,477 Posts
In my experience dealing with original Harrison radiators. Finding a good original date coded radiator will run anywhere from 5-700. It runs around 4-500. for the resto on these so you'll be in the 1000.-1200 range by the time you're done with an original. The repos are often cheaper at 700. unless you get real lucky finding an original that's cheap to start with.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,996 Posts
Most or all 70s with a B.B. & A/C had the VO-1 Cooling or H.D.
This VO-1 core support has the patch welded on the left side of the support bottom, As others have said the top plate has a patch welded on the left side. To complet the VO-1 system--3:31 rear= 772 fan blade & Eaton clutch.
4 speed tanks are IF--XJ & PA. code. I believe a T-Cer gave you the tank codes for a 70- B.B.with A/C & T-400. Good Hunting.........
Bob
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys. I did search the forum archives and saw the ones Ray referenced breaking out the tag codes. As I said, from my read of the assembly manual I was pretty sure my car should have a 4-row radiator but wanted to make sure. And the build sheet does have PD in Block 46 for the radiator (just PD, not PD88 like Dave P's).

For warrior90: when you say the repro radiators are easy to spot, do you mean the new replacement radiators (so those from the local parts store) and those without "Harrison" on the side, or do you also mean the more expensive repro ones with Harrison on the side like The Parts Place and Heatbeat City sell? And yes, I'd be interested in you have an original that can be restored or the correct tanks. (My car's build date was 4/30/70 on the build sheet.)

Ref the welded on plates, my lower support does not appear to have one and my top plate defintely doesn't (which indicates to me these have been replaced over the years). How important is it to have these? If I can find a car with them locally to get the correct sizes, are these something that can easily be fabricated or do I need to find an original support and cut it off and an original top plate to replace mine? I apologize for the dumb questions, but want to do this right and know what I'm getting into.

Thanks a lot to everyone for your info and your patience.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
132 Posts
For warrior90: when you say the repro radiators are easy to spot, do you mean the new replacement radiators (so those from the local parts store) and those without "Harrison" on the side, or do you also mean the more expensive repro ones with Harrison on the side like The Parts Place and Heatbeat City sell? And yes, I'd be interested in you have an original that can be restored or the correct tanks. (My car's build date was 4/30/70 on the build sheet.)


Ref the welded on plates, my lower support does not appear to have one and my top plate defintely doesn't (which indicates to me these have been replaced over the years). How important is it to have these? If I can find a car with them locally to get the correct sizes, are these something that can easily be fabricated or do I need to find an original support and cut it off and an original top plate to replace mine?
All the reproduction "Harrison" radiators are easy to spot if you know what to look for...even the ones from the Parts Place and Heartbeat City.

I will check through my radiators and see if I have anything that would be correct for your car.

If you are going to be installing the four row radiator you will need the two welded on extensions...the radiator will not fit in the original core support or top plate...it's too wide ...hence the extensions.

I believe Hinshaws sells the top plates (nice reproduction) and the Parts Place sells the bottom extension (OK reproduction, but far from perfect). Once installed, the bottom part is hard to see anyway.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Dave, I appreciate it. If I read all the previous posts on tag codes correctly, I need an IF tank for the driver's side and an XP tank for the passenger side. I appreciate you checking to see if you have them.

I though I had the tag codes down correct, until going back and looking at the pictures of tags from the 10 Aug 2009 postings. The detailed breakout by Ken (Crazychevelleman) says the overall code should be PD for a 4-row HD radiator for an L34 auto trans with A/C, but then he shows a picture with an overall code in the upper right of the tag with BE (and IF & XP for the tank codes) and says it's for an L34 with auto trans & A/C. Which is it--either?

Also, what I have not seen explained anywhere is what's the two digit number in the bottom right of the tag? (The photo of the BE tag says 52.) The photo of a PD tag (with IF & XJ) says it's for an LS-5 or LS-6 with auto trans & A/C (and has 74 in the bottom right).

Again, thanks for the great info and your patience. Let me know if you have the tanks I need and what you what for them.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
132 Posts
A "BE" code radiator is the 3-row...it would have the tanks IA and XP.

I have heard a couple different explanations for the number, but the best one I've heard is that it's the core code. It would make sense, all the other info on the tag refers to the radiator assembly and it's parts...you've got the production line code, the tank codes, the number, and then the radiators GM part number and the year code. It stands to reason that the number would have something to do with the core.

Every "PD" radiator tag I've seen has 74 on it. I have had at least twenty of those radiators, and they always had the 74...and they always had a 9 (1969) for the year...no matter what year or month car they came out of. I've pulled a few out of unmolested '71 cars, and they had '69 tags.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for clarifying it, guys. Either I misread the labels on the pictures of the tank tags or they're labeled incorrectly. Either way, thanks to you I have accurate info and understand. Thanks again!
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top