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Hey guys, new car owner here trying to learn about this car & get to know its tendencies. Fun to drive, m-22, 4.10 rear with a 502. Makes a ton of torque, power & of course heat. After drives, its leaking a bit of coolant out the overflow tube.



The water temp gauge reads around 210, but it also jumps around a bit randomly, so I will be having that replaced. In the meantime, what are your thoughts on the current cooling setup? The radiator is about 34" in wide &19" tall. The shround is 24" wide & 19" tall. The shroud doesn't cover the whole radiator, but the fan is as tall as the radiator, so I don't think I can go bigger.


Do I need/would I benefit from a newer alum rad or a dual electric setup, etc? Any input appreciated, and I've read a ton of threads in this forum so I know there's 2 camps around here (clutch fan crowd vs the electrics) :smile2:
 

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Need more information please.

Is your temp sensor in the intake or in the head?

What temps do you get while cruising at 35ish mph?
What temps do you get crusing at 60+ mph?
What temps do you get at idle?

What temp thermostat do you have?

How much coolant vs water in your radiator?

What is your engine initial timing set at?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Need more information please.

Is your temp sensor in the intake or in the head? In the head

What temps do you get while cruising at 35ish mph? around 200
What temps do you get crusing at 60+ mph? seems to go up when at freeway speeds to like 210
What temps do you get at idle? Once its hot from the freeway, it doesn't get hotter but is doesn't cool down either. Ive never seen 180-190 in this car, not yet anyway.

What temp thermostat do you have? Not sure on this.

How much coolant vs water in your radiator? Seems to be pretty green so I'd guess more antifreeze than water. Car came from Washington & is now is SoCal.

What is your engine initial timing set at?
I just had a new ignition system installed. MSD 6AL box with a new MSD coil, & dist. Initial I was told is at 12 deg.
 

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Hey guys, new car owner here trying to learn about this car & get to know its tendencies. Fun to drive, m-22, 4.10 rear with a 502. Makes a ton of torque, power & of course heat. After drives, its leaking a bit of coolant out the overflow tube.



The water temp gauge reads around 210, but it also jumps around a bit randomly, so I will be having that replaced. In the meantime, what are your thoughts on the current cooling setup? The radiator is about 34" in wide &19" tall. The shround is 24" wide & 19" tall. The shroud doesn't cover the whole radiator, but the fan is as tall as the radiator, so I don't think I can go bigger.


Do I need/would I benefit from a newer alum rad or a dual electric setup, etc? Any input appreciated, and I've read a ton of threads in this forum so I know there's 2 camps around here (clutch fan crowd vs the electrics) :smile2:

Just some info for your consideration:

Without an external expansion tank, the 'top' section of the radiator serves that function. The coolant should be filled to above the 'fins', and leaving approx 1" (below the overflow tube outlet). Simply loosing a little coolant after the engine gets a little hot, is not necessarily a problem.

Your at idle temps are fine. But the shroud seems to be blocking a lot of air flow. A better configuration for at speed air flow has already been recommended. No need to change to electric. You're not that far 'off' to justify the expense (in my opinion).

When you replace the gauge, recommend a mechanical one. They are more accurate and reliable.

AT cruising, 210F is not 'HIGH'. I would want to see the same temp as the thermostat setting (whatever your is). So, it may be a little high. Coolant flow restriction(s) somewhere in the system MAY cause that. Restrictions such as 'clogging of the radiator, collapsed hose, etc. MAY be in play. Also, the drive belt MAY be loose causing some coolant flow degradation. Water pump MAY be undersized. A thermostat NOT opening fully MAY be a restriction.

Helpful reading:

https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf

Lot's of 'MAY' possibilities. Take your time and troubleshoot. You are NOT so HIGH as to be alarming. Recommend pulling the string on the simple/low $ stuff first and see what you get.

Pete
 

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Hard to see for sure but That radiator already looks like a big 2 row aluminum unit? If that is the case, it looks like you just need a better OEM style fan shroud and maybe a new fan and clutch.

Knowing what radiator is in there will help eliminate certain needs.
 

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You would be going back words with the electric fans. The stock clutch fan is the best..

I'd look into a Champion radiator on e-Bay. They are very well made and do an excellent job of cooling. I have a 454 and don't even use the shroud.

I'd change that rear end to 3:08 or 3:23 for starters.. That thing must scream everywhere it goes.. Can you imagine the piston speed... That big motor needs some gears it can dig in to....
 

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Looks like the stock size 1970 radiator & shroud. You cant go bigger on the radiator. After that you are pretty much on your own. If you do enough looking at the "Cooling" sections in various car websites, you will find everyone has a different opinion and what works for 1 guy will not work for the next guy. Half the guys swear that electric fans is the way to go, the other half say you can't beat a clutch fan. Good luck.
 

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Hard to see for sure but That radiator already looks like a big 2 row aluminum unit? If that is the case, it looks like you just need a better OEM style fan shroud and maybe a new fan and clutch.

Knowing what radiator is in there will help eliminate certain needs.
what would be a better alternative? perhaps a 1971-1975 shroud with the bigger fan and appropriate clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright, I have an update. I went ahead & changed the thermostat to a 180, the old one looked fine & was also a 180. I then burped the cooling system & during that process, I let the car run for 15 mins & the temp gauge never went over 180-190. I had the heat on & it was hot, so that rules out the water pump right?
I shut the car off & maybe 15-20 min later figured I'd go for a ride. As soon as I started it up, temp gauge right to 250.
The top radiator hose is so hot you cant hold it. The bottom hose is warm, but you can hold it.
So, I've ruled out the thermostat & the water pump right? What else is there to check as far as this cooling issue goes?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
One other thing, although I have heat & the water pump doesn't leak or make noise, it does have a bit of a wobble on the pulley. Nothing crazy, but a friend was looking at the engine while it was idling & he pointed that out.
 

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But would a bent pulley that cause sever overheating? Its still spinning & having heat indicates the water pump is moving water right?
 

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Alright, I have an update. I went ahead & changed the thermostat to a 180, the old one looked fine & was also a 180. I then burped the cooling system & during that process, I let the car run for 15 mins & the temp gauge never went over 180-190. I had the heat on & it was hot, so that rules out the water pump right?
I shut the car off & maybe 15-20 min later figured I'd go for a ride. As soon as I started it up, temp gauge right to 250.
The top radiator hose is so hot you cant hold it. The bottom hose is warm, but you can hold it.
So, I've ruled out the thermostat & the water pump right? What else is there to check as far as this cooling issue goes?

The engine coolant temp rises (significantly) upon shut off because the coolant flow stops but the engine is still hot. There is nowhere for the heat to go but into the coolant and stay there. I never 'timed' it, but the temp may still be rising after 15 min.

This is immediately noticeable with a mechanical temp gauge. One can sit in the car and watch it rise upon shut off.

Did you drive the car to see if the temps decreased when the coolant flow returned?

If you are reluctant to drive the car with that gauge reading, 'idle' it at 2k rpm (or so). See what happens. The temp should start to go down as the heat transfer process begins anew (at the 'high' shut off temp). If that happens, take it for a drive; the temp should return to normal very quickly.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just a thought. Since the thermostat is now ruled out since I've just replaced it, and since there's heat in the cabin that should rule rule out the water pump, could it just be that the radiator (which I think is original) & clutch fan setup simply aren't enough to cool this engine off? The motor is a 2006 zz502, makes over 500hp out of the box & the way its setup is probably making at least that.

I mean, if its not the radiator/fan setup, then what else is there given the thermostat & water pump seem to be ruled out?
 

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How old is the Rad Core ?

Did you look down into the Rad at the Cap Opening to see if it looks clogged up ??

Is the Clutch Working the way it should ??? does it need to be Replaced
and how close is it to the Rad Core ????
so it can sense the Temp of the Coolant in the Core and thus Engage the Fan to Pull Air thru the Rad Core

Your current Shroud does not cover the whole Rad Core so that is not good for Cooling down the Coolant that is in the Rad Core !!
You should get the Shroud I mentioned in my Post # 4
if your Current Rad Core is about 31" Wide x 18" Tall
 

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Discussion Starter #20
As far as I can tell, its the orig radiator. I've looked inside & I can't see much in terms of blockage & when I partially drained it to install the new thermostat, it drained relatively quickly. The fan clutch has resistance to hand spinning, which from what I can tell on the interwebs, means its still functional as well. I know the shroud doesn't cover the whole radiator, but can that really account for how hot the gauge says its running (250)?

I'm a newbie to the whole musclecar armchair mechanic thing, but from what I can discern about the entire cooling system, its radiator & fan, water pump & thermostat. Since I can rule out the thermostat due to it being replaced & the water pump not leaking or making noise & the fact that there's heat in the car, then that should leave only the radiator & fan right? I mean, what else is in the list of possibilities to cause it to run super hot?
 
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