[davehurst]

As most of us that run BBC 454's in our Chevelles, mine a 66, I fight cooling issues. I am in the deeeeeep South, we have days around 150 deg. with 500% humidity in the Summer, which runs 10 months out of the year.
During stop and go traffic, I will get to 200 deg. not boiling, but would like lower. I have a air flow issue, I know the problem.
I though of getting a junk yard transmission cooler and figure out how to divert heater core line to it during the summer.
Place the cooler in front of rad, like typical placement.

Anyone ever heard or seen this?

 

[69SS454]

A trans cooler has very small lines. I don't think you would see much difference. You might try an engine oil cooler to cool your oil or just improve the radiator air flow.

 

[davehurst]

Excellent Idea Bill, I have been wanting to relocate that oil filter since I owned the car, headers are to close to the oil filter, making it hard to take off. I looked into this, Derale claims up to 50 deg. drop in oil temp. $100 at Sumittracing for a complete kit.
This could be the way to go.

 

[thebeast]

As most of us that run BBC 454's in our Chevelles, mine a 66, I fight cooling issues. I am in the deeeeeep South, we have days around 150 deg. with 500% humidity in the Summer, which runs 10 months out of the year.
During stop and go traffic, I will get to 200 deg. not boiling, but would like lower. I have a air flow issue, I know the problem.
I though of getting a junk yard transmission cooler and figure out how to divert heater core line to it during the summer.
Place the cooler in front of rad, like typical placement.

Anyone ever heard or seen this?
View attachment 719946

I'm in the Deep South, too …. 200 degrees is not unsafe….. When I’m in red light hell, it creeps
to 200, but stays 180 in the wind ….

 

[kmakar]

Excellent Idea Bill, I have been wanting to relocate that oil filter since I owned the car, headers are to close to the oil filter, making it hard to take off. I looked into this, Derale claims up to 50 deg. drop in oil temp. $100 at Sumittracing for a complete kit.
This could be the way to go.

I actually used 2 Derale trans coolers in series on my compressor (to cool the air from the head), and it made a HUGE difference. Air from the head came out at like 290 degrees, and by the time it hit the tank it was cooler than room temp (71 degrees).

If I were you, I'd go that route, maybe even putting an efan on it to cool if further. I'll be doing that on my car.

 

[shovelrick]

I went to the JY and pulled a stack (I think that's what it's called) type trans cooler from a Tahoe? with a tow package, placed it down low to the R and still ran through the rad, maybe it'd be better bypassing the rad? Also at idle unless I have my Efans running constantly mine will get above 200* and I don't like that either, 2 Derale 12" fans controlled by stat in intake, I unplug it and put a 20-25 amp fuse on the 2 wires and leave the fans run while I'm working on the car idling

 

[japete92]

Here's some info:

https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf

Basically, a 50/50 mix at 15 psi does not boil until 265F.

My opinion? The cooling system is doing its job quite well if it maintains the coolant temps within about 5% of the thermostat setting while moving at forward speed (25 mph or so). And within about 10% at idle/stuck in traffic.

With a 180f thermostat, your 200f in 'stop and go traffic' is just fine (as long at it returns to 'normal' upon returning to speed).


Me? If I only got to 200f in the conditions you cite, I would not spend a nickel on 'fixing' anything.

I would (because it's free) check the timing. An advance in initial timing (if you are not at the 'best' setting already) should cool things somewhat (and make it run better)

Pete

 

[oldcutlass]

200* in stop and go traffic is better than normal. There is nothing to worry about here, spend your money on other things besides cooling.

 

[Alwhite00]

My 6.0 kicks the fans on at 206 then it will cool it down quick to 190 then they shut off. This is only when idling in traffic. I wouldn't worry about 200 degrees.

 

[Hotwire]

..dude, get a heater core to mount on the rad, no sense in using a trans cooler.

Have you flushed the system lately? It would help transfer heat. Also blow an air gun or water jet through the fins to make sure there's no build up of dirt to try and improve air flow. If it has ac, pull the condenser and make sure there aren't any leaves of debris blocking the flow.

 

[chaze]

I actually used 2 Derale trans coolers in series on my compressor (to cool the air from the head), and it made a HUGE difference. Air from the head came out at like 290 degrees, and by the time it hit the tank it was cooler than room temp (71 degrees).

I'm not understanding what you're talking about - air from the head and coolers on the compressor. Sounds like good results so I would like a more thorough explanation.

 

[DUTCH MAX HEADWORK]

I'm not understanding what you're talking about - air from the head and coolers on the compressor. Sounds like good results so I would like a more thorough explanation.

For shop air compressor.

 

[kmakar]

I'm not understanding what you're talking about - air from the head and coolers on the compressor. Sounds like good results so I would like a more thorough explanation.

Like Al said, shop compressor. Instead of getting used buy a new Derale oil cooler (but I used it to cool the air for my air compressor).

Compressor Air Dryer Recommendations

I was leaning towards the twin stage because of the final filter, .1 micron before it hits the tank (further insuring low moisture). My garage is already cooled (A/C and I also have a heat pump water heater which reduces the humidity and helps cool the garage).

www.chevelles.com

I will buy a setup for my car though as it works so well.

 

[chaze]

I be more smart now. Thanks.

 

[Kirk's67SS]

As most of us that run BBC 454's in our Chevelles, mine a 66, I fight cooling issues. I am in the deeeeeep South, we have days around 150 deg. with 500% humidity in the Summer, which runs 10 months out of the year.
During stop and go traffic, I will get to 200 deg. not boiling, but would like lower. I have a air flow issue, I know the problem.
I though of getting a junk yard transmission cooler and figure out how to divert heater core line to it during the summer.
Place the cooler in front of rad, like typical placement.

Anyone ever heard or seen this?
View attachment 719946

What Type of a Fan Setup do you have ?
Mech Fan with a Shroud or Efans/Shroud

If you have a Air Flow Problem then fix that and the Engine will run Cooler Temps

I run a Small Stock Sized Alum 2 Row 1.25" Wide Tubes DF Rad on my 468ci BBC 550 HP / th400 Reverse VB
160* Thermostat so it is FULLY open at 175* - 180*
long ago I learned that a 180* Thermostat is NOT fully open until 195* - 200*

My Engine Coolant Temps in Hot / Humid Weather are from 170* on the Hwy with NO Efans ON
to 180* in City Traffic / Back to Back Runs down the 1/4 Mile Track with one or two Efans ON

The MORE and where you put it in Front of the Rad the More Air Flow Restriction

Trans Cooler Low and away from the Rad Core
NOT run thru the Rad Core // Trans has never gotten above 150*
and I have only rebuilt it once in 13 years of Hard Street and Track Racing

Efans/Shroud with Hwy Rubber Flaps// 1 Efan Comes on at 175* and the 2nd I Toggle ON if needed

Some reading material

9 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability...

This might be a good read and/ for a Sticky for the H&C Forum https://www.enginebasics.com/Engine%20Basics%20Root%20Folder/Engine%20Cooling.html 9 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability in High-Perf Autos Produced by the National Automotive Radiator Association (NARSA) and by...

www.chevelles.com

 

[O'Man]

As most of us that run BBC 454's in our Chevelles, mine a 66, I fight cooling issues. I am in the deeeeeep South, we have days around 150 deg. with 500% humidity in the Summer, which runs 10 months out of the year.
During stop and go traffic, I will get to 200 deg. not boiling, but would like lower. I have a air flow issue, I know the problem.
I though of getting a junk yard transmission cooler and figure out how to divert heater core line to it during the summer.
Place the cooler in front of rad, like typical placement.

Anyone ever heard or seen this?
View attachment 719946

Great looking car there! You never mention what you are running for a radiator? As I read the suggestions offered above it occurs to me that while there is merit to some ideas offered the real answer is a big radiator. The obvious solution is the most likely solution to work. The large radiator solution has always worked for me, hands down every time.

The radiator transfers heat from the water to the outside air, changing fans / pushers and pullers in combo / and adding transmission coolers and ____ may produce marginal improvements but they are IMHO just band aid solutions. All the add on stuff in the world is not a substitute for a large heat exchanger with the situation you have for heat and humidity.

You just must allow that hot water to be exposed to more air flow given that the air coming across that radiator is itself as hot as hell. In the final analysis this path toward a solution getting a larger radiator) is gonna boil down to the same old 2 row vs 3 row, aluminum versus copper debate that has been around this board for a long time.

I submit that a large, no make that a LARGE, radiator is the answer be it 2 or 3 row or copper or aluminum or any combination of those attributes. All the rest is just dancing around the problem. Big engines produce big heat, already hot ambient air has trouble pulling heat out of the water after the big engine gets that water to 200+ degrees F. Big radiators with big surface area allow more ambient air to take heat off that hot water.

It really is that simple IMHO.

 

[oldcutlass]

No it's not really that simple, large is not always better. I run a APDI/PRO 8010322 Radiator - single row, 1 1/4 aluminum core with plastic tanks and Flex-a-lite 1818 fan with no shroud. With a 180* thermostat I run around 190* and it may creep up to 205ish with extended idling. Outside air temp is in the upper 90's.

 

[Bob Tiley]

Use a stock fan shroud and a 1970 7-blade fan and heavy duty clutch. You should have no problems with air flow. I have an old school 3 core brass radiator (not a fancy aluminum one) and my healthy big block never goes over 170 deg.

 

[O'Man]

No it's not really that simple, large is not always better. I run a APDI/PRO 8010322 Radiator - single row, 1 1/4 aluminum core with plastic tanks and Flex-a-lite 1818 fan with no shroud. With a 180* thermostat I run around 190* and it may creep up to 205ish with extended idling. Outside air temp is in the upper 90's.

Hmmm..interesting numbers there. That has not been my experience but my comments were mostly focused on bittin the bullet for a serious radiator as opposed to addin band aids on to an underperforming system. These cars stayed cool when they were new and the original cooling systems were totally up to par. No additional coolers or pusher fans ...etc. etc. etc. The OP is dealing with a 454 not a 496, 540 or 632 and I doubt that anything more than a top performing "standard" cooling system is needed.

 

[oldcutlass]

More times than I can count the causes for higher temps have been timing issues and too lean of fuel mixtures. These cars came with fixed 4 blade fans with no shrouds on non-AC cars and ran fine.