[billdini]

I have been looking on the web for a antifreeze recovery system that will mount and work with my 68 AC car. They were not original back then. The normal mounting on the inner fender has a lot of hoses, dryers and other things in the way. Here are some pics taken during the restoration showing how things are routed. Please let me know if anyone has been successful with this year 68 with AC. The last pic also does not show the wiper washer hose and tanks on the drivers side as they were installed after this shot.. Other years probably will not apply here because 68 is a one year everything and everything moved around in 69 up..

 

[cage2592]

On my 70, I have no recovery tank. I run the overflow hose down the side of the Rad and through the bottom of the radiator support. Never an issue.

My wifes 68 Camaro has it routed to small JAZ overflow tank with petcock on the bottom. Never any antifreeze in it though.

My 75 Dually has it routed to the windshield washer fluid reservoir. Never anything in it either.

My opinion is that its not really needed as its not a 'recovery tank' that recirculates back to the rad so it doesn't make sense. I would install one If needed but as I said, I never have anything in them or have a coolant usage issue. The only ones I've seen used were the long slender aluminum ones. My buddy has one mounted on the side of his radiator shroud as his space is limited.

Nice engine compartment as well !

Mike

 

[japete92]

Your radiator configuration helps dictate the need for a 'recovery' tank. IF the radiator has 'built in' expansion space above the fins, AND you do not fill it above the 'fins', an external tank is not needed.

With your configuration as depicted, you may be 'over restricting' the air flow thru the radiator while driving (causing over heating).

Pete

 

[billdini]

Ther

Your radiator configuration helps dictate the need for a 'recovery' tank. IF the radiator has 'built in' expansion space above the fins, AND you do not fill it above the 'fins', an external tank is not needed.

With your configuration as depicted, you may be 'over restricting' the air flow thru the radiator while driving (causing over heating).

Pete

There is a couple reasons.I am not over heating but I can hear it gurgling once a while so there is air in the system plus I can probably have more antifreeze in the system if I keep it full. I do have HD cooling, 5 blade with clutch and a 1.25 inch x 2 Cold case. My sister lost her dog after drinking antifreeze that spilled on the garage floor and I have a little monster too. Not a big priority but if someone has done a system that works and looks nice I will install one. I am using the tube running down the side of the radiator. Thanks

 

[Kirk's67SS]

I agree with jpete92
that is one big A/C Condenser / almost as big as your Rad's Core
but I see you have it far enough away from the Rad Core at lest
but there will still be some Heat Soak/Transfer from it to the Rad Core
and also the Air Flow will be Restricted/Impeded by so many the # of Rows of Tubes
and the Thickness of the Fins on the A/C Condenser AND the Rad's Core
a Alum Two Row Rad Core of 1.25" Wide Tubes would help some VS a 3 or 4 Row Lead/Steel Rad Core

So it looks like you are using a Stock Mechanical Fan set up which is good
for when the Engine is Reving much Higher than Idle / in City Stop & Go Traffic
as at Idle / in City Stop & Go Traffic it will not be turning the Mechanical Fan Fast enough
to Pull enough Air Flow thru the A/C Condenser and the Thick Rad Core IMHO

 

[Kirk's67SS]

Here is what I have on my 67 and when it does Overflow sometimes but not very often
and it Pulls the Overflow amount of Coolant Back into the Rad when the Engine/Rad Cools Down

The Clear Plastic Hose/Tube goes to the Bottom of the Overflow Tank
and lets me see the Coolant go Back into the Rad
the Black Top Hose/Tube is if the Container Fills Up and then lets any Over Amount go to the Ground

Overflow Catch Can JAZ Products 602-025-01: Recovery Catch Tank 1-Quart Black | JEGS
Clear Plastic Hose/Tube
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/precut-vinyl-tube-clear-1-4-in-id-x-3-8-od-0632879p.html#srp
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/precut-vinyl-tube-clear-1-2-in-id-x-5-8-in-od-0632881p.html#srp

 

[vortec710]

FWIW....There are a bunch of reasonable aluminum puke tanks out there on ebay which would serve your purpose and would readily conceal in the area behind the battery and remain unseen esp. if you're going for originality. On my El Camino I purchased a knockoff WW2 type aluminum canteen and cup, cut 2 VERY Short pieces of fuel line style rubber hose and drilled 2 holes in the flat spot on the inner fender behind the batt, used the hose between the bottom of the cup and the inner fender to reduce vibration and ran 2 small bolts thru cup, hose and inner fender with nuts securing it all. For the canteen I bought a rubber stopper @ Ace, drilled 2 holes thru it and cut and bent 2 pieces of small brake line tubing, 1 went thru the stopper to the bottom of the canteen and was hooked to the rubber overflow hose, the other tube, much shorter went thru the other stopper hole to vent the canteen in the event the radiator passed more than 1 quart of fluid. The brake lines were bent at a 90 degree angle outside of the canteen for clearance and ease of removing the canteen if the need should arise, with the cup remaining in place. Total cost about $15 or so. I realize this is not for everyone, but I guess being retired I have too much time on my hands.

 

[vortec710]

Addendum: Also changed the radiator cap to the coolant tank recovery type

 

[billdini]

FWIW....There are a bunch of reasonable aluminum puke tanks out there on ebay which would serve your purpose and would readily conceal in the area behind the battery and remain unseen esp. if you're going for originality. On my El Camino I purchased a knockoff WW2 type aluminum canteen and cup, cut 2 VERY Short pieces of fuel line style rubber hose and drilled 2 holes in the flat spot on the inner fender behind the batt, used the hose between the bottom of the cup and the inner fender to reduce vibration and ran 2 small bolts thru cup, hose and inner fender with nuts securing it all. For the canteen I bought a rubber stopper @ Ace, drilled 2 holes thru it and cut and bent 2 pieces of small brake line tubing, 1 went thru the stopper to the bottom of the canteen and was hooked to the rubber overflow hose, the other tube, much shorter went thru the other stopper hole to vent the canteen in the event the radiator passed more than 1 quart of fluid. The brake lines were bent at a 90 degree angle outside of the canteen for clearance and ease of removing the canteen if the need should arise, with the cup remaining in place. Total cost about $15 or so. I realize this is not for everyone, but I guess being retired I have too much time on my hands.

That would be perfect but if you look behind my battery you will see my AC dryer is there. Everything you see under my hood is as it was built from the factory with the exception of the cold case radiator. One option I may have is to mount a plastic type gm recovery tank on the drivers side although my preference would be hidden. I guess I will take a long look again and see what I can do. I want a two way system like all cars use today that fill the canister or the radiator on expansion demand. Mounting height and tube length might affect how well it works and why I was hoping someone has already done this. I am not l just looking for a one way catch can. Thanks

 

[blm]

I ad an expansion tank on my 69 for approx 5 years. Never got a drop in it. I had the correct type of rad cap. Once you get the level correct you should never have a problem unless you develope a problem with the cooling system.
That being said I used my old windshield washer tank and hid it behind the battery. Removed the overflow tank a few years ago and haven’t puked a drop since.
You could use your existing washer jug instead of using it for washer fluid. Should stay dry anyway. I don’t have washer fluid in mine. I’ve never tested the squirrels in over 20 years anyway. Couldn’t tell you if they work or not.

 

[Kirk's67SS]

That would be perfect but if you look behind my battery you will see my AC dryer is there. Everything you see under my hood is as it was built from the factory with the exception of the cold case radiator. One option I may have is to mount a plastic type gm recovery tank on the drivers side although my preference would be hidden. I guess I will take a long look again and see what I can do. I want a two way system like all cars use today that fill the canister or the radiator on expansion demand. Mounting height and tube length might affect how well it works and why I was hoping someone has already done this. I am not l just looking for a one way catch can. Thanks

Mine is not a One Way Catch Can JAZ Products 602-025-01: Recovery Catch Tank 1-Quart Black | JEGS
if you Read the " Details" and Specs it says ;

• Seamless cross-linked polyethylene shell
• Molded-in 1/4"-20 threaded mounting inserts
• 1/4" barbed inlet fitting in the bottom
• 1/4" barbed vent fitting with hose in the top
• Radiator can recover fluid as needed

Recirculating Yes

 

[billdini]

Mine is not a One Way Catch Can JAZ Products 602-025-01: Recovery Catch Tank 1-Quart Black | JEGS
if you Read the " Details" and Specs it says ;

• Seamless cross-linked polyethylene shell
• Molded-in 1/4"-20 threaded mounting inserts
• 1/4" barbed inlet fitting in the bottom
• 1/4" barbed vent fitting with hose in the top
• Radiator can recover fluid as needed

Recirculating Yes

Kirk how is that mounted

Never mind I went out to summit and they had a pic of the two embedded nuts. I will have to see if it can be mounted on the radiator support between the grille

 

[billdini]

I ad an expansion tank on my 69 for approx 5 years. Never got a drop in it. I had the correct type of rad cap. Once you get the level correct you should never have a problem unless you develope a problem with the cooling system.
That being said I used my old windshield washer tank and hid it behind the battery. Removed the overflow tank a few years ago and haven’t puked a drop since.
You could use your existing washer jug instead of using it for washer fluid. Should stay dry anyway. I don’t have washer fluid in mine. I’ve never tested the squirrels in over 20 years anyway. Couldn’t tell you if they work or not.

Except in Ma Brad. Here your squitters must work. Full safety and function test.

 

[Capt Casey]

Put Vodka in the tank for the squirters and spray the guy doing the testing....!Then say he was drinking while doing the test!

 

[billdini]

Put Vodka in the tank for the squirters and spray the guy doing the testing....!Then say he was drinking while doing the test!

The hell I will Captain, vodka is for me. I will keep the squitters working for the inspection

 

[blm]

So I assume you have regular MA plates on your car? No historical plates.

 

[billdini]

So I assume you have regular MA plates on your car? No historical plates.

Actually in Ma antique plates have no advantage and Grundy’s does not require them so I can drive anywhere anytime. I had antiques in the past that limited my driving. Inspections are for all cars in Ma except I am exempt from emissions but that applies to all cars 20 years or older. However all must do a safety inspection every year.

 

[DUTCH MAX HEADWORK]

I like a closed system. Check out these tanks at Jegs. I think you have room to one side of the condenser between the radiator support and grill. You can run your hose down the right side of the rad to go under the rad support then to your recovery tank. Try to get the highest capacity you can fit in there.

I currently have a 15" x 2" that is just adequate. I want to upsize to 15 x 3"

Coolant Overflow Tanks | Shop for Coolant Expansion Tanks & Overflow Catch Cans Online - JEGS High Performance

Buy a coolant overflow tank for racing applications at JEGS High Performance. Protect your engine's cooling system with the wide selection of aftermarket overflow tanks and catch cans available on our online automotive performance store. Shop for a coolant expansion tank or overflow catch can today.

www.jegs.com

Mr Gasket 9135: Radiator Fluid Reservoir Capacity: 24 oz - JEGS High Performance

Buy Mr Gasket 9135 at JEGS: Mr Gasket Radiator Fluid Reservoir Capacity: 24 oz. Guaranteed lowest price!

www.jegs.com

 

[billdini]

I agree with jpete92
that is one big A/C Condenser / almost as big as your Rad's Core
but I see you have it far enough away from the Rad Core at lest
but there will still be some Heat Soak/Transfer from it to the Rad Core
and also the Air Flow will be Restricted/Impeded by so many the # of Rows of Tubes
and the Thickness of the Fins on the A/C Condenser AND the Rad's Core
a Alum Two Row Rad Core of 1.25" Wide Tubes would help some VS a 3 or 4 Row Lead/Steel Rad Core

So it looks like you are using a Stock Mechanical Fan set up which is good
for when the Engine is Reving much Higher than Idle / in City Stop & Go Traffic
as at Idle / in City Stop & Go Traffic it will not be turning the Mechanical Fan Fast enough
to Pull enough Air Flow thru the A/C Condenser and the Thick Rad Core IMHO

Hi that condenser is the correct size for the car and uses the original mounting holes. It is a reproduction and measures out the same as my original. Car does not run hot and it has everything as it came from the factory but with a Cold Case 2 x1.25”.

 

[Road Roamer]

I decided to put mine where the washer fluid res was. I never need the washer fluid and it looks similar.