Authored by Wes Vann (revised 10/15/99)
This page is going to be an ongoing project where I can post tools thatmay not fit in any other section. It's an area where I can show tools thatyou never thought about.
If any items are removed, it's because I found them to be a bore orrelocated them elsewhere.
April 17, 1997
Pop Rivets and pop rivet guns;
Pop rivets enable you to attach two items together without having accessto the back side of the item. For this reason, they are sometimes called"blind rivets".
They come in all sorts of lengths and diameters. In some automotiveapplications, they use a rivet with a large shoulder, and these can befound at some automotive paint supply stores. Most rivets are aluminum,but it's possible to also get steel rivets.
A pop rivet has a center pin that the pop rivet gun grabs hold of andtries to pull through the rivet body. As this is done, the head on thecenter pin deforms the body and crimps it tight. When done, the centerpin breaks off. In the photo above, the rivet on the left has just beenplaced through the piece of steel. The rivet in the center has been installedand crimped from the under side of the steel. The pop rivet gun is seton the rivet at the right and is ready to crimp.
When using pop rivets, the rivet should be a snug fit in the hole throughthe material. The length of the rivet should be such that before crimping,it's sticking out the blind side about 1/4". If using rivets on softmaterial, you should use a washer on the blind side to spread out the load(there are special washers for this).
A "cleco" is a temporary clamp that can be used where youare planning on installing a pop rivet. They are real common in the aircraftindustry. (I know that Year One lists them in their catalog)
The photo above shows an installed cleco and one with the tool in place(the reason for the rubber band is just so that I could take the photo).
In using a cleco, the tool releases the fingers on the blind side. Whenthe fingers are released, the cleco can be removed. They can be used overagain and again.
90 Degree drills;
There are times when you just can't get a drill motor in where you haveto drill a hole. A "90 degree drill" is an adapter that you canput on your drill motor (shown is a rechargeable variable speed Black andDecker).
By using a short drill bit, with this set-up I could drill in a cavitythat is only 5" deep.
It's kind of weird to use this set-up due to the fact that the adapterhas to be held from moving around while drilling.
May 1, 1997
3-M "Roloc" disks;
These little guys come from 3-M with a quick screw-on tab. They justtwist onto the adapter that you have to get for your grinder.
They come in various grits and are great for removing rusted areas,paint, and Bondo.
What I don't have (yet) is a 90 degree air grinder for these. The grindershown is a bit of a pain to use.
The disks are about 3 inch in diameter. You can get them (and the adapters)at an automotive paint supply.
Deep reach vise grips;
It's amazing the different types of vice grips that I've seen. Thesecome in real handy when fabrication metal stuff! I ended up using themwhen I replaced the floor pans in my wagon.
I got them at the local "Home Base".
Dang, this scan just didn't come out worth a poop.
Chassis punches are named that cause they are used in the electronicindustry to make cabinets. A chassis punch will make a perfectly roundcircle and will not deform the metal panel.
What the photo doesn't show very well is that one side of the punchgoes on one side of the panel and has cutting edges. The other piece isthe cup that the removed section goes into.
To use one, you have to drill a hole for the bolt to go through. Theunit is asembled and then the bolt is tightened down.
The bad thing is that they cost lots! They are only for one size.
I used a chassis punch to make the holes for the power window wire boots.(that is a long, ongoing story)
I always keep some of these in the garage!!
They come in various sizes. What is strange (and must not be politicallycorrect) is that "skin color" is only for white guys.
Ok, these are the standard tin snips. The only reason that I am showingthis photo is so that I can describe the other snips in the next photo.
When using this type of tin snip, one side of the cut metal goes belowyour grip and the other side goes above. Wear gloves!
These are the COOL tin snips! Yes, there is a reason why one has a redhandle while the other is green.
Notice that the red tin snips are at the right side of the metal beingcut!! The green snips would be on the left side of the cut.
Big important point here; at all times, your hand is above themetal you are cutting.
Also note, as shown above, the red snips tends to wander to the leftas you cut.