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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Setup:
70 Chevelle SS clone
454 / AFR 265 heads / Clay Smith hydraulic roller cam (225/227 @ .050 / .559 Int /.530 Ex) / Comp Cams roller rockers
Edelbrock Performer RPM / 850 Holley HP
HEI w/MSD 6A Digital box
TH400 / 11" BME converter / 3.31:1 posi / GM 12 bolt


Hi, I have a 70 Chevelle SS that has round-style idiot lights and I am changing it over to SS gauges. I did a lot of reading and research in here and other forums, and after finding instructions titled "70-72 Chevelle & El Camino SS Idiot Light to Gauge Conversion" by Jim Endrud, I decided to make changes to my existing non-gauge harness per these instructions.

I've gotten through moving the necessary wires in the PCB connector and adding a wire for the tach to the TACH wire for the HEI and adding a wire to the positive post of the battery for the ammeter to the PCB as well.

Endrud has an entry that is not 100% clear to me and I'm hoping to get some clarification from one of you fine gents.

He says: Brown lead #3 differs in the light harness and the SS gauge harness. This lead zig-zags from the firewall connector, to the fuse panel and to the ignition switch. On the idiot light harness it also sends a wire to the dash idiot lights. When converting a non-gauge harness to a gauge harness, remove this wire from the dash connector plug and tape it back and out of the way.

Initially I had trouble with my charging system after the gauge conversion...ammeter always read discharge...dead battery. The wiring diagram ave no indication to the connectivity of this brown lead to the locations I just mentioned.

Is he saying to pull brown wire #3 out of the PCB connector and run separate wires to the ammeter? Tracing the pathways of the circuit board, Brown wire #3 is formerly a GEN light and is now going to the left post of the ammeter. From what I understand, I need to use both posts for the ammeter to work correctly.

Help?
 

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You do not use the brown wire that was in location #3 of the dash plug. You can remove that wire from the harness or tape it back out of the way. I always remove it. You need to add wires that are not there to locations #3 and 4 of the dash plug. You need to put a black wire with a white stripe on it in location #3 of the dash plug. You need to put the other end of that wire in location D-T of the fuse block. You need to put a black wire in location #4 of the dash plug.
You need to put the other end of that wire into location D-S of the fuse block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Red. I verified that my existing engine harness actually matches the diagram and got those wires plugged in.
 
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