I finally got the small-block out my chevelle and after some minor freshening up it will go into an s-10 pick-up truck. The transmission that I will be using is a powerglide because that is what I have laying around. I have heard that automatics prefer a wide LSA while manuals prefer a narrow LSA. Is this also true with a powerglide? The truck will be mostly a beater and will see the strip occasionally. I have several cams that I could use. The cam that is in it now is a 106 LSA. The one that it replaced was a 112 LSA. Any input? Thanks.
I know thats what they say but our data with small blocks has been different
With the automatic small blocks like 106° usually and sticks like 108° usually in every small block we have raced. With a stick the wider lobe center allows you to add rear gear for an unreal launch and will ET best, An automatic likes the gear with small blocks, with an automatic you run alot of duration on tight lobe centers such as 106° and the added duration makes big HP and MPH
Just to give you an idea of how we run the small blocks, a 331 or 355 with high compression runs great with this following 106° lobe center cam, we do not advance it, we install it at 106°. It ET's best with 7,800rpm shifts {shift light set to 7,400} and 8,100rpm past lights in 355 and 8,300-8,400rpm in 331's, no higher than 7,800rpm shift. Will run 119-122mph in a full dressed 331-355 chevelle with 5.14 rear {28" tires} or 5.38 gears with 30" tires, must use a 6,000rpm transbrake stall and leave no less than 5,500rpm for best ET, It will put a 3,700 pound race weight in the 10's
If you run a single four barrel use a 750-830, if you use a tunnel ram use two 660's on a 331 and two 750 annular boosters on a 355, 1 3/4" headers, 13:1 compression
This is a little too radical for what I wanting. I guess I will leave the 106 LSA in there and whatever it runs it runs. This is the same motor that ran 12.6 in my chevelle with the exception of a larger solid lifter cam and of course it will have the powerglide versus the T-350. What is the determining factor for stall speed? Duration at .050 or advertised duration?
But tractor gears and little motors are fun The 406 runs a much milder combo and run 10's. The camaro is getting a radical 505cid next year, we are building it now
I would run the converter that was in the Chevelle and not worry about it much. You're going to go with a different converter behind the big block anyway. Just assuming it was about 2800-3000 stall?
I would run the converter that was in the Chevelle and not worry about it much. You're going to go with a different converter behind the big block anyway. Just assuming it was about 2800-3000 stall?
The glide will make it gain some stall due to not as low of a gear in low, the lighter weight of the s10 will make it stall less, it will probally stay the same
If he installed the identical grind to the 112° that came out of it, the stall will go up a little due to increased TQ
ATI Treemaster but they are not cheap, $699 last one i bought
I would shoot for a 4,000rpm stall, a little looser of about 4,400rpm for a footbrake car
you know more then me but wouldn't 104-106 make more torque but in a much narrower band? for a street driven power glide with low stall don't you want take a bit of a hit on peak and make it more broad?
i think i would be going with #3. should make strong bottom end, but i'm unsure if there will be problems with too much compression. i'll let the rest of the people that know more talk about that.
A lot of wheel hop......and another fan belt throwing issue.....Still have some tuning to do. I need to get my 3" pipes and aerochamber mufflers back on it. The 2 1/2" and cheap turbos don't do it justice. The small block had a deeper sound to it than it does with the big block and the current exhaust. I imagine that the mufflers are the main culprit. The aerochambers have a nice deep rumble to them. Traction on street tires is still pretty well non-existant anywhere under 40 mph. I know I can fix the wheel hop issues pretty easily. I just need to let some air out of the shocks in the back. I probably won't do this until I get the exhaust fixed or my second topcoat on my driveway. I need it up so I don't rip the exhaust off pulling into the garage. I do need to fix out my belt alignment issue. It is kind of annoying to throw the belt. I am used to keeping a good eye on the temperature guage from the same problem with the small block. Now come on Joe, give me a little advice on the small block cam question.
None of those cams will be any good unless you get some gear in there. You could go with the Lunati Hydraulic, but even with it, you will need some gear and converter. Really a compromise, and you will be disappointed with anything until you get the gear and converter.
I would get your gear, put a TH350 in there, and put that bad @ss 401B5 back in, and let the fun begin.
I am leaning towards the 401B5. It will be a while before I can really do the gear or the transmission since I have blown most of my mad money on my big-block swap in the chevelle and purchasing the swap parts for the s-10. I know it will probably be slow off the line with this combo but it may be a little bit of help in getting the truck to hook on street tires. It should run pretty well from a 40 mph roll though. It isn't really anything I am super serious about. Just looking to have something to beat on that I am not worried about tearing up.
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