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Converters and LSA

3K views 28 replies 6 participants last post by  69bu 
#1 ·
I finally got the small-block out my chevelle and after some minor freshening up it will go into an s-10 pick-up truck. The transmission that I will be using is a powerglide because that is what I have laying around. I have heard that automatics prefer a wide LSA while manuals prefer a narrow LSA. Is this also true with a powerglide? The truck will be mostly a beater and will see the strip occasionally. I have several cams that I could use. The cam that is in it now is a 106 LSA. The one that it replaced was a 112 LSA. Any input? Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Just to give you an idea of how we run the small blocks, a 331 or 355 with high compression runs great with this following 106° lobe center cam, we do not advance it, we install it at 106°. It ET's best with 7,800rpm shifts {shift light set to 7,400} and 8,100rpm past lights in 355 and 8,300-8,400rpm in 331's, no higher than 7,800rpm shift. Will run 119-122mph in a full dressed 331-355 chevelle with 5.14 rear {28" tires} or 5.38 gears with 30" tires, must use a 6,000rpm transbrake stall and leave no less than 5,500rpm for best ET, It will put a 3,700 pound race weight in the 10's

If you run a single four barrel use a 750-830, if you use a tunnel ram use two 660's on a 331 and two 750 annular boosters on a 355, 1 3/4" headers, 13:1 compression

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1802&gid=249

This is a proven combo that has been used a few times in the past, and will be employed this winter into next year
This is a little too radical for what I wanting. I guess I will leave the 106 LSA in there and whatever it runs it runs. This is the same motor that ran 12.6 in my chevelle with the exception of a larger solid lifter cam and of course it will have the powerglide versus the T-350. What is the determining factor for stall speed? Duration at .050 or advertised duration?
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I would run the converter that was in the Chevelle and not worry about it much. You're going to go with a different converter behind the big block anyway. Just assuming it was about 2800-3000 stall?

Sent you a PM
Correct it was a 3,000 stall. I don't think i can use it with the glide though. I do have a 2,400 stall for the glide but may want to get it restalled to something higher.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
355 cid
11.4 to 1 compression
holley aluminum heads with 2.02/1.6 valves
1.5 roller rockers
holley street dominator
770 cfm holley carb.
msd ignition
1 5/8" headers

401B5LUN: 285/295 252/261@.050, .525"/.525" 106 LSA.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Know where I can pick up a high stall powerglide converter cheap? Shift points should be around 6,800 rpm. It is a solid lifter.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
355 cid
11.4 to 1 compression
holley aluminum heads with 2.02/1.6 valves
1.5 roller rockers
holley street dominator
770 cfm holley carb.
msd ignition
1 5/8" headers

401B5LUN: 285/295 252/261@.050, .525"/.525" 106 LSA - Solid
Just wanted to resurrect this. I started taking this motor apart. Main bearings looked good. Cylinders still have the cross-hatch in them. So far so good. I just found out that the truck that it will be going into has 2.73 gears. This ought to make for some lackluster launches with the powerglide. I am going with a 2,400 stall in the glide as that is what I already have. Looking for any more input on the cam selection for this. Since this a very budget build with left-over/spare parts I am using one of the cams that I already have. Choices are:

1. The Lunati listed above.

2. Lunati 290/297, 235/240@.050, .490"/.490" 112 LSA - Hydraulic

3. Crower mechanical flat tappet, .528/.545 lift, 256/262@.050, 294/300 adv. dur., 114 LSA. Part # 00323


What do you think given the highway gears and low stall?
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
A lot of wheel hop......and another fan belt throwing issue.....Still have some tuning to do. I need to get my 3" pipes and aerochamber mufflers back on it. The 2 1/2" and cheap turbos don't do it justice. The small block had a deeper sound to it than it does with the big block and the current exhaust. I imagine that the mufflers are the main culprit. The aerochambers have a nice deep rumble to them. Traction on street tires is still pretty well non-existant anywhere under 40 mph. I know I can fix the wheel hop issues pretty easily. I just need to let some air out of the shocks in the back. I probably won't do this until I get the exhaust fixed or my second topcoat on my driveway. I need it up so I don't rip the exhaust off pulling into the garage. I do need to fix out my belt alignment issue. It is kind of annoying to throw the belt. I am used to keeping a good eye on the temperature guage from the same problem with the small block. Now come on Joe, give me a little advice on the small block cam question. :)
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
None of those cams will be any good unless you get some gear in there. You could go with the Lunati Hydraulic, but even with it, you will need some gear and converter. Really a compromise, and you will be disappointed with anything until you get the gear and converter.

I would get your gear, put a TH350 in there, and put that bad @ss 401B5 back in, and let the fun begin.
I am leaning towards the 401B5. It will be a while before I can really do the gear or the transmission since I have blown most of my mad money on my big-block swap in the chevelle and purchasing the swap parts for the s-10. I know it will probably be slow off the line with this combo but it may be a little bit of help in getting the truck to hook on street tires. It should run pretty well from a 40 mph roll though. It isn't really anything I am super serious about. Just looking to have something to beat on that I am not worried about tearing up.
 
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