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Discussion Starter #1
Hope everyone is well in these times, I'm looking for some advice on control arms for my 66 Chevelle I'm building without completely breaking the bank. The car has a supercharged ls motor 6speed manual transmission. It's mostly going to be a cruiser with some track racing drag and maybe auto cross. I've looked at CPP and a couple of others. Just wanted to see what experience people have had with aftermarket ones. Thanks
 

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66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
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UMI, best stuff around without boutique prices. Really.

Support those who support us.
 

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Or if your on a budget just rebuild the stock stuff for now.
 
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Which control arms? If it's the front, there isn't really much to be gained with replacing the lower a arms. The lowers can be refinished by Glenn Lever(he did mine) and they are perfect. All the magic happens with the uppers if it's from a reputable manufacturer. I have Hotchkis arms because the rest of the car is Hotchkis, but UMI would be a tie for quality. My Hotchkis arms give me a little too much negative camber for my liking, but I can live with it. If you aren't bound to a certain brand, UMI has tons of support on this site and are great to deal with on the phone.

If it's the rear, UMI has a pretty good setup as well..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes I'm looking for control arms for the front of the car. My last 66 I had broke two lower control arms fortunately both times were backing out of a parking space. With my new build and with my wife and kid riding in the car I don't want anything to happen. I've heard of people buying certain control arms and not being able to get the car aligned right. Basically I don't want to go the less expensive route and it bite me in the a$$ down the road but I also don't want to spend a bunch of money when the car is not really intended for racing all the time
 

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I’ve have a few friends with bracket cars that had cheap imported aftermarket control arms crack on the welds. One failed as the car crossed the finish line when he got off the throttle and the chassis unloaded causing the car to turn into the retaining wall then barrel roll. This caused a lot of guys to closely inspect theirs, at which point couple found cracks. At that point they upgraded to American made control arms, mainly Global West because of their drag race specific control arms. If you are building a cruiser that is mainly driven to shows, then inexpensive control arms will work. However, if you plan on driving the car hard, why take the risk?

CPP used to buy offshore then put their name on it, if that’s still their business model I’d look elsewhere.

Steve R
 

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Were the lowers that you broke OEM? Or tubular?
 

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Check out Speedway Motors in Lincoln, NE. They have arms from $369 uppers & lowers with improved geometry for modern radial tires and up if you need a name brand set. If you want your car to handle more like a modern car, I'd suggest going with arms that complement a taller spindle for greatly improved geometry, handling and tire wear, especially if you have wide tires on the car and are contemplating autoX or track days! Otherwise you'll just destroy your tires and be disappointed in the car's performance. Some tubular arms do nothing but improve the look of the suspension while maintaining 1960's tech. If you're running pizza cutters in front, stock is fine. Now you've got to look down the rabbit hole before proceeding. You can spend thousands of dollars or maybe just $1-2k with not much noticeable difference between the two, unless you plan to beat the car on the track regularly. Check them all out after deciding just how MUCH you want/need tubular arms, then find a competent alignment shop that will align your car to the specs given to you by the manufacturer of the parts you choose. A stock alignment WON'T work well if you modernize your suspension. JMO.

Good luck. Sounds like you have the making of a very spirited ride!

(I've had my 1966 Malibu since 1971 and have done just about everything to it! Going for a track oriented stance with a 3-link full floating Speedway 9" and very modified front suspension using fabricated parts. It's also got a narrowed and stiffened frame and is caged with room for any size rear tire and up to 11"with 315 in front, FYI.)

Ric
 

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For a tight budget, I highly recommend the SC&C upper control arm, taller ball joints, keeping the stock spindle and lower control arm if they're in good shape. With the SC&C upper arm, you can dial in modern suspension settings to make the car handle *MUCH* better with no downsides.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all your suggestions, it might seem that I'm over thinking things but having a wife and kid in the car and my last 66 breaking two lower control arms (OEM) ones just has me cautious. I'm building the car to cruise and enjoy with my family #1 race it #2. I'll be honest if a newer Charger, Mustang want a piece I'm going to give it to them. It's just something that will always be in my mind wondering is will a lower control arm break with out warning. The car should be around 750-850 rwp so it's going to be a big boy car. I'm really leaning towards the UMI I talked to a couple of alignment shops and they did not recommend the CPP
 

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Thanks for all your suggestions, it might seem that I'm over thinking things but having a wife and kid in the car and my last 66 breaking two lower control arms (OEM) ones just has me cautious. I'm building the car to cruise and enjoy with my family #1 race it #2. I'll be honest if a newer Charger, Mustang want a piece I'm going to give it to them. It's just something that will always be in my mind wondering is will a lower control arm break with out warning. The car should be around 750-850 rwp so it's going to be a big boy car. I'm really leaning towards the UMI I talked to a couple of alignment shops and they did not recommend the CPP
I am from the Old School of if you can update/upgrade a 50+ year old Part then do it
with Safety in mind and so much Chinese Junk out there I Redid the Front Suspension on my 67 in 2013

I bought these from UMI Perf
https://www.umiperformance.com/home/product/1964-1972-gm-body-tubular-upper-lower-front-arm-kit/




they are of the best Quality, Fit and Finish I have ever seen
and the Alignment Guy was very happy how easy they were to do/adjust

They have been on 7 years and No problems at the Track or on the Hwy / Street

The Back ones have been on even longer ( 2010 )
https://www.umiperformance.com/home/product/1964-1967-gm-a-body-tubular-upper-fully-boxed-premium-lower-rear-control-arms-kit/

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Kirk I have decided to go with the UMI arms. I had a very good conversation with them this morning just need to measure my spindles to find the correct ball joints. Thanks again everyone for the help stay safe out there
 

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Get a good welder to box in the stock ones ! I broke them in Old Yellow Jacket , 66 Chevelle MP car ! Old Blue set National Record in Gainesville! Late 60’s ! 66 Chevelle Modified Production also ! Boxed in stock arms !
 

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Sorry!!! I was thinking rear ! I’m redoing my 69 Camaro I’ve had for 48 years ! Somehow I came across these overseas A arms and disc brakes! I don’t trust them so I’m going with stock A arms and drum brakes again ! They never let me down and I have really abused this car all of my adult life ! Building the 14th engine now ! Thought about writing a book about these adventures !
 
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