[hpsherlin]

My car had drum brakes. An older long time mechanic gave me the spindles and rotors from a 70 something trans am and said they would work. I have searched the sites and don't see this listed. What do you think? Also, the drum brakes had a distribution block I think. Converting to power disc's on the front only. Will I have to get a proportioning valve? The guy doing my restoration doesn't think so. He believes this will work.
Any replies would be greatly appreciated. I will do what I need to but I'm lost. One thing keeps leading to another. LOL
Herbie

 

[dgwar]

yes on the new valve. I have the front disk conversion on, the rear is on the way. Since I'm changing to 4 wheel disk, the prop valve will have to be replaced again. Your right, it never stops.

 

[Herb]

Herb,

You will probably have as much in the refurb of those spindle assy's (if they can work) as you would if you bought a kit. I used the complete used front spindle assy's from a 69 Chevelle. By the time I refurb'd them with new rotors, bearings, fully loaded calipers, de-rusting and repainting, chasing down the correct hoses and banjo bolts and copper seals, I could have paid the price for a complete front end conversion kit like Olle used (see product review section) and been done with it cheaper, easier and faster.

If you are intent on going the piece part route, you can actually use your drum spindles with a minor modification that either you can do yourself or have done very inexpensively by a local machine shop. There are several strings on this site and pictures that walk you through it. Then go to piratejack.net and buy the backing plates and caliper brackets. A pair of loaded calipers from the local parts house and 2 new rotors with bearings and you're done with the spindle assy's.

If you are thinking about kits, most kits will also come with the correct lines and the prop valve. If you select the right supplier, you can buy what you want, all or part of the kit, etc.etc. There are kit suppliers who are members on this forum. Check out Olle's reference, or talk to Doug at "Right Stuff".

Again, sometimes we have to go a certain route due to financial considerations, but if your time and trouble is worth anything, go with a good pre-packaged kit at a reasonable price.

JMHO. Been there. I think Olle will tell you the same thing.

/herb

 

[Olle]

JMHO. Been there. I think Olle will tell you the same thing.

Yes, Sir. Piecing it together with junk yard parts is possible, as long as you are able to find everything. It could possibly be a little bit cheaper than a basic kit once you have refurbished everything, depending on what you have to pay for parts, turning rotors etc. Still, paying another maybe $50-100 to get a complete kit with all new parts is well worth it, IMO.

Of course, you can do it cheaper by using the junk yard parts as they are (done that too) but you usually end up doing the job two, three times over if they don't work. And putting brake parts in unknown condition on your car kinda defeats the whole purpose.

Just for the record: I actually tried to find used parts for my latest conversion, but couldn't find any locally. If you have to order parts and have them shipped, I can almost promise you that you won't save a dime.

 

[Olle]

Will I have to get a proportioning valve? The guy doing my restoration doesn't think so. He believes this will work.

You might want to find someone else to do your restoration.

 

[hpsherlin]

Thanks for the input. I have everything except calipers. The mechanic that gave them to me thought they'd be direct fit. The guy doing my car was going to turn the rotors himself. He is also going to clean up and paint everything. I have looked at the kit from Ground Up and it is a really decent price. Anyone used it? How is quality and fit?
Olle, do you sell these kits? Appears you are well thought of.
As far as who is redoing my car, I live 2 hours from Chattanooga, Atanta, Greenville, or Asheville. Lucky to finally have a guy that is not ripping me off. Already went that route twice. Have friends done the same thing. Super rural here. 2 hour ride to the nearest interstate. I love it but.....
Not many people that will do quality paint underneath, inside, and outside in addition to installing engine and transmission and all other electrical and mechanical work to your car and the complete interior. So far a very nice job.
Just asking questions as I am involved in the process. Really just wanted facts.

 

[Olle]

Olle, do you sell these kits? Appears you are well thought of.

No, I don't sell any kits, I'm just such a nice guy. Seriously, I have done a few brake conversions, and have usually used junk yard part. For my latest project though, I decided to look into the kits and did some pretty thorough research. Some of the things I found out about the basic OEM-style kits were:

-Many of them (if not all) use the same spindles. I guess the market doesn't allow for too many manufacturers

-Many of them use generic, ugly looking boosters

-Most of them don't include brake lines, vacuum line and fittings but they can be ordered separately

-Most of them are pretty much identical, but the price can still vary $150-200 or so.

-Many of them use cheap, Chinese made hardware (bearings, seals and such)

The vendor I finally picked had a very reasonably priced kit, with a nice restoration grade booster (no Delco stamps though), answered all my e-mail promptly and delivered quickly. You'll get an idea of what to anticipate if you check the review I wrote, but in short: I'm sure that I didn't have any problems that you wouldn't have with any other kit. I haven't seen the seller on eBay lately, but you could send him an e-mail and see what he says.

Best of all: I already had some old part that I wanted to use, and I didn't have to buy a complete kit. He was more than happy to sell just the parts I needed.

 

[hpsherlin]

Ok, gonna buy a prop valve. Already have the distribution block.
Now another question: Most chevelle I have seen are using the long thin prop valve but GU and also Inline Tube website show a smaller size prop valve for a '67. It is about as big around as it is long. Pg 47 in GU catalog. Same on Inline Tube. Is there a big difference in how well they work? Also, research shows that some '67s had a hold off valve. Website stated that some cars had the two and some the three valve system. What are pro and cons of this. Got my car's shifter hooked up and trans seems to be good. Built 400 about 10 years ago but kept on a bench in the shop since. But.....
brakes are non existant. Disc's haven't been installed yet and also rebuilding the rear drums.
Thanks all. I really appreciate it.
Herbie