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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is my problem. I have a 71 SS Chevelle with a Muncie M22. I have the adjustment bar tight against the fork. There is no play. I have to push my pedal all the way to the floor for it to engage and I still have a hard time putting it in gear. reverse grinds and I have to force it into 1st. This clutch has maybe 500 miles on it. I installed it about six years ago and I have not driven it much since. Any suguestions?
 

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make sure you still have an air gap between the TOB and the clutch otherwise you'll burn things up in no time. To me it sounds like a geometry issue. For I went with an adjustable pivot ball and I had to go quite a bit less than the 4.75" dimension centerforce gives I think because of my machined flywheel. Check for excessive play in the Z rod, pedal itself, and clutch fork as well. It doesn't take much for the geometry to be off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How am I going to make sure there is clearance between the TOB and the presure plate without pulling the tranny? I guess I can pull out the dust boot? Also, if there is enough clearance what else can I be looking at that would be causing this issue? Sorry to be a hassel. Thanks!

Eddie :beers:
 

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You say your adjustment rod is tight against the fork, but is that rod at the end of its adjustment or could it be adjusted longer? Dumb question, but important to know.

How much space between TOB and PP fingers? Pull that dust boot and get a flashlight and determine that too. Then report back.

If your rod cannot be adjusted longer and the TOB is very close to the fingers (but not touching), then I would start thinking about the clutch fork pivot ball length (too short) or TOB (too short).

I am not a professional though. You need the help of JodysTransmissions on this forum. Bo.
 

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you need that clutch spring. without it you could have excessive wear on TOB

Do you have your needed 1 to 1 1/2" play on your clutch pedal?? Must have it.

I agree with help needed from Jody at Jody's transmission
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, I took off the boot today to take a peek. I could not see the TB. I did notice that when I backed off the adjustment rod there was no play in the fork. Is something in a bind? I am thinking at this point it might be better for me to pull the tranny and look. If I do would it be better to replace the clutch and presure plate? I hate to spend ~200.00 but I do not want to have to replace a clutch that has worn inproperly a few months after I drop the tranny for inspection! lol

Eddie
 

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without the clutch spring your not going to see any clearance of TOB and pressure plate. Also in neutral at idle your TOB with be spinning causing early wear. Plus you won't have the correct clutch adjustment. You need that spring, than readjust your clutch and go from there. Your clutch pedal should have about 1 1/2 play as you press on it. If you don't have it, you need it.
 

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First, what Rich said. As for replacing the clutch, I don't think you could hurt it in a few months unless you drive a ton of miles. You wouldn't believe the abuse I've put mine through over the last 4 years and it's still like new.
 

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There are 2 different TOB lengths also that I know of a short and a long one. With the fork boot removed and adjustment rod dropped out of the clutch fork you should definitely have space between the TOB and PP fingers with the clutch fork in the total released position (this is where the return spring comes into play as it helps to take up the slack of the adjustment rod in the clutch fork and also pulls it back to its totally released position). I would think it could be 3 things that could be wrong TOB length, wrong length pivot ball or wrong clutch fork. When you replaced the clutch did you buy the whole kit CD, PP, and TOB. It could have been the wrong kit too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It is all the stock linkage and it was a clutch kit for a 71 Chevelle, 4-speed, 350 car. Zoom I think? Can you install the TB wrong? I have not had a chance to go out and work on it again. I hope to do this tomorrow afternoon. I will be in touch! Thanks for all the replies!

Eddie :)
 

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It is all the stock linkage and it was a clutch kit for a 71 Chevelle, 4-speed, 350 car. Zoom I think? Can you install the TB wrong? I have not had a chance to go out and work on it again. I hope to do this tomorrow afternoon. I will be in touch! Thanks for all the replies!

Eddie :)
Yes, the TOB can be installed incorrectly. You want both tangs on the fork inside the groove of the TOB -- NOT one in and one out. This is a somewhat common mistake, though i am not certain it would lead to the symptoms you are experiencing. Bo.
 

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Well, I think I know now why there was no clutch spring, the headders are in the way! What now? Thanks!

Eddie
Pictures would help a ton in this thread, but they are painfully scarce. :)

Move the mounting point for the spring bracket (within reason). It just needs to pull back relatively straight. This stuff gets pretty far away from stock in a hurry. At least mine did. :) Bo.
 

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Well, I think I know now why there was no clutch spring, the headders are in the way! What now? Thanks!

Eddie
You use a radiator hose clamp around one of the header tubes and connect your spring to it. That's the way mine is set up for about 5 or 6 years now.
 
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