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Discussion Starter #1
1969 L48 350/300 Muncie M20. During a complete restoration, the original flywheel will be retained but the OEM clutch is being replaced with a LUK 04-049. The original clutch adjusting rod needs to be replaced, it's too far gone rust wise.

All restoration parts supply outfits offer a replacement rod kit, but one, Inline Tube, offers 2. One is the stock length 6 1/4". The other one they list is 7 3/8" and states "This is the longer length for aftermarket clutches".

The question is, where does that leave the LUK 04-049? While yes, it is an aftermarket clutch, does it require the longer adjusting rod? Car is in complete disassembly and driveline parts are in a different state, so "dry fit" isn't an option right now.

Any real life experience to share on this ?

Thanks

Viz
 

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I've installed Luk, Valeo, Zoom, Hays, Centerforce, and Mcleod clutchs in various Chevelles, ElCaminos, and Camaros and have never needed a longer push rod.

The way I see it, if you need a longer pushrod that means your clutch fork angle will be incorrect or your bellcrank is incorrect. If the clutchfork angle is incorrect, a longer pushrod will not resolve the issue and you will have issues with clutch disengagement and adjustment.

Unless you are using parts that are 100% to GM spec, there's a good chance you will need to use an adjustable clutch fork ball.

This video is spot on and will set you on your way. If you need help, ask, and we'll give you a hand.


You can buy the longer one if it makes you feel better as long as the threads continue to the shortest position as the short rod. You can always cut it down. But I have never needed a longer pushrod. YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow, great info, thanks !!!!! I'll go with the stock length rod then. Valuable feedback, thanks to all !

Viz
 

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I did once with a CF clutch. The Zbar did get replaced later on, btw, so not challenging Al's advice.

Viz if you get in a jam, and you shouldnt, a proper sized grade 8 bolt with hex cut off and ground to a round nose end to fit the Zbar cup is the quick McGiver solution if you need it. As I found out once.
 

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What ever you do, don't throw away your oem bellcrank. You are better off repairing it than buying a reproduction. The reproductions are hit or miss and it looks like it's becoming more miss lately. If you must use a reproduction, there's a good chance you will need to relocate one of the rods, or levers, to match your original bellcrank. That 5 year old Chinese kid that welds these up has been slacking lately.

A bell crank that has a different degree between the rods, can cause you to lose throw or could make your pedal effort much higher. Loss of throw could make achieving a proper airgap and still having enough throw to release the clutch near impossible.
 
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