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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am using some of my original 1970 harnesses. I am carefully lookind at the individual conductors' insulation and condition, cleanig the conductors and then taping the harness. What should I be using to remove oxidation? I am trying to remove each terminal, one at a time, from it's plug and scotch briting thr spades clean. Does anyone do this another way? Also, I was going to put a touch of penetrox or anti oxidation compound on each terminal. Any thoughts?
 

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I did the same thing on my harness. Used Caig DeOxit with good results. Everything worked out great for my installation in my 66.
 

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Keith used an electronics cleaner, no issues there , but if you want to put a compound on every terminal I would advise against it. I'll see if I can post some pics tomorrow of tools I made to burnish ( mechanically clean) the terminal connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Joe, I am trying to take the connectors apart and use scotch brite to clean up, but any other advice is appreciated.
 

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This morning i found my rear right light socket was corroded, surprisingly but it has been like 5 years since i replaced it. I took some fine sandpaper and electrical liquid cleaner (radio shack) to the socket. dried it with compressed air from a can. the put some dielectric grease and put in a new bulb. it would work just as well on other electrical connectors. on the wires i replace sections as needed, soldering it, then shrink wrapping it.
 

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I work in lower Manghattan and went to 2 stores that advertised this product on Google. No luck, I tried a few stores by me, no luck, I am going to order this through Amazon I think.
 

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Okay, here's my tools I use: :thumbsup:

What I did is make my own terminal contact "burnishers". I went and bought two miniature screwdrivers. They were 3/32" straight edge. I took my Dremel and ground down the last 1/4" or so to enable me to treat the end just like a wire.

I then crimped on (1) Female and (1) Male Packard 56 series connectors on each. Since these weren't simply pieces of wire, I needed to make them stronger, I then soldered them to each of the screwdrivers. Now, not only are they rugged, but they electrically conduct!




To give you a better idea on how the 56 series terminals "mate", I hooked the two together. The female has side guides and a spring flap with a small button. The male has small hole that interlocks on the button to make a locking connection.




The first step is to spray the connector in question a good electronic cleaner. This stuff is available virtually everywhere.



Then spray the cleaning tool's connector itself, that way it is coated in the solvent.

The next part is to simply plug and unplug the connector tool repeatedly into the terminal in question so you end up working out all of the crud and burnishing the plated metal. The spray cleaner evaporates and leaves no residue. That's what we want. A clean connection.


(The male tool is being used here on this parking lamp connector terminal)



(The female tool is being used here on this bulkhead connector terminal--it will be turned around to ensure both sides of the factory male connector are completely clean).


Final thoughts;

To thoroughly clean and inspect terminals, they should be removed from the plastic housings (I don't recommend doing that on bulkhead connectors unless you really have a questionable connection). Avoid using harsh abrasives and Dremel attachments. If you "sand down" the terminal, not only are you removing the corrosion, but also the plating revealing the base metal(s). Once you remove the brass/tin plating, the unprotected base layer will quickly oxidize and corrode.

If you really have dirty connectors and terminals, don't waste the good spray cleaner. Get a cheapo toothbrush and some isopropyl rubbing alcohol (91%) to scrub away the excess first).

Careful inspection is a key element. It doesn't matter how clean the connector's surfaces are if the crimp (where the copper has been attached to the terminal piece) has turned blue or green with corrosion. If corrosion was "wicked" into the crimp area, a new terminal needs to be installed on clean copper. Red arrow show the area in question:



Oh, remember at the start when I mentioned the "tools" also conduct thanks to the soldering? They also make excellent probe attachments. Ever try to cram a square peg in a round hole? It's kinda like that with meter probes and factory harness connections. Now I can simply "plug" in my probe and use it when testing/measuring.



:beers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Joe, excellent piece on terminations. Where can I buy the male and female spade terminals for the various male and female plugs if I want to install new ends?
 

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Joe, excellent piece on terminations. Where can I buy the male and female spade terminals for the various male and female plugs if I want to install new ends?
Roland,

I'd have to go thru my parts "piles" for part numbers, but the 56 series were purchased out right from auto parts stores off of electrical section shelves. I got some from CarQuest, I know that for sure, but the brands were Dorman for example, so you should be able to at least order them for a respectable auto parts place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Joe, thanks, I am going to try and find some new spades, I am afraid to use wiring that shows green or blue oxidation because it is under the crimp and that is high resistance which equals a hot spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, I just did a google search and found the connectors, they are Packard 56 or GM 56 terminals for the musclecar era cars.
 

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Vinegar & Baking Soda is nice for cleaning Brass & Lead ( solder).
It is also a good for putting fires out. The old Copper stand up units, That you had to turn upside down to work. When you flipped it upside down, The baking soda comes in contact with the vinegar and Shazam,,
A high pressure " Fire Extinguisher ".
Put a little baking soda in the connector, Then a few drops of vinegar and it will foam. Wash off with water and dry (hair dryer), Then a little Dielectric Grease.
I did this to a 40 year (over a hundred thousand miles) old 70 SS dash and under hood harness 8 years ago. My 70 wagon has another 40.000 miles on the old org. harnesses.
Some old ideas still work.
Bob
 
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