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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I got my 68 chevelle on the road again, so I thought. when i driving my car home from the body shop due to some minor dings on it, the car started to sputter on me and eventually turned off on me half way home. checked out the the electric fuel pump (which was mounted in the engine compartment by the previous owner) & was not pumping when i turned the key. got it home finally after driving and dieng 3 more times on the way home, moved the fuel pump to the back by the tank. it seemed okay and started to drive off 4 blocks later same thing sputter and die. Fail! also i noticed my temp light in my chevelle would come on and it wouldnt craink, and the fuel pump connected to the fuse box was making the fuse box incredibly hot. thinking the electric pump was going out, i drove it til t died then connected the fuel pump to my battery til see if it still pumped and it did! so my mechanic thought it was the pump not drawing enough amp from the fuse box to run it, so he connected a switch that runs off my battery to turn on the pump manually, so i wouldnt be drawing power from the fuse box any more. well just picked the car up this morning drove it home fine. BUT when i got here i turned the car off and thought i would turn it on again to see if it would start. I DIDNT! same thing temp light comes on doesnt craink. turned the pump it didnt pump. waited 10 sec pump came on but car wouldnt caink with temp light on. 30 mins later it starts right up no problem its amost like the car is overheating and needs to cool down. any input would be greatly appreciated I have no clue at this point???????
 

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Check the voltage on the battery and the output on the alternator. If the alternator is bad (not charging the battery) or does not have enough amp output to keep it charged, this may occur. The battery could also have a bad cell in it. THis seems like more of an electrical issue than the car being hot. If it were an overheating problem, the TEMP light would have been on while the car was running.
 

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Also want to make sure your alternator and wiring is rated for what you have. If it is a stock style alternator pushing only 60amps and original wiring, could cause issues for eletric pumps, fans, big stereos, etc.
 

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Mike, you have mail......... PM sent

Also if you don't have the correct tools, take it to Advance Auto, Oreilly's,Autozone, etc... I like Advance Auto's voltage reader becuase they give you a print out and test everything..... But their tester should let you know voltage through the system, alt, starter,battery.

One more think I forgot, it could be the voltage regualtor if external. If so DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP SH*T FROM AUTOZONE.....Go to Oreilly's and get the upgraded unit..... I have had mine for 10 months now, now probs....Ran through 2 Autocraps in 1 month.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check the voltage on the battery and the output on the alternator. If the alternator is bad (not charging the battery) or does not have enough amp output to keep it charged, this may occur. The battery could also have a bad cell in it. THis seems like more of an electrical issue than the car being hot. If it were an overheating problem, the TEMP light would have been on while the car was running.
Thanks for the input everybody. wat BlueSS454 says makes sense about it being electrical because if it were overheating it would have the temp light on while the car is running. will be trying to take care of this issue this weekend. post when i find out wat the problem was.
 
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