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Checking a used motor???

798 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  1966_L78
I bought a used motor several years ago. Supposedly running, but needed stuff like intake, oilpan (guy kept the Chevelle pan, I put on an Impala pan for storage), pulleys, etc

I finally yanked the heads off last night.

No ridge in the cylinders, and still see some cross-hatching. some carbon build up on the pistons and chambers...

Since I have the oil pan and heads off, I'd like to check the bearings, and clean the carbon. BUT, I'd rather NOT remove the pistons (I don't want to get int oring replacement, and then a full rebuild, etc at this time)...

1) Is there a "proper" method for removing the rod and main caps and then reinstalling after checking the bearings?

2) is there a certain bearing cap to remove to get a general idea of the overall condition? I know nothing is certain, but is the one rod or main that will show wear quicker?

3) if bearings look worn, but not scored (and journals look fine) IS there any problem inserting new bearings (just to freshen it up)?

4) Is there anything I can use to break up the carbon deposits (chemical) that won't hurt the rest of the pieces (or require hot-tanking, etc)/ Or do I just have to scrape off the deposits? What about those "scothcbrite" gasket removal discs?

5) Torque specs; I have Mains listed at 135 ft-lbs and oil pump at 65 ft-lbs... Sound correct?

Head bolt torque? I recall this also being 135 ft-lbs?

rod torque? I recall 35 ft-lbs?

Flywheel torque?


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Tony, I can't answer all your questions, but here's a few.

Torque spec's for a 2 bolt main are 95 #, and for a 4 bolt main 110#.

Rod bolts if 3/8 " torque to 50 #, if 7/16 " torque to 67#.

Oil pump is torqued to 65 #.

For head bolts, the short ones get torqued to 65 #, and the long ones 75 #.

Flexplate gets torqued to 65 #.

As for your other questions, there are other's on this forum far more qualified than I to answer. Good Luck.

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