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Unless you're hung up on having a 1000hp dyno sheet, just build it as big and strong as you can with the best heads you can afford and run it.
600hp on the street is a helluva handful and most drivers can't handle that much, let alone the cars. Another 400hp just makes it harder to control for most, many end up wrapped around trees and whatnot when power exceeds talent.
598 with AFR heads, solid roller with shaft rockers and as much compression as you dare.
A big part of the engine you linked is the SR-20 package. Heads, rockers, pistons are all specific and not cheap. Those were designed for big-inch race-only engines and although they can be run on the street, it would be a big waste of money IMHO.
 

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67 Camaro SS/RS L78 M20 Convertible
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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the input. So far it goes from just saying i got 1000 hp to buying a sticker and then some more technical solutions..
The rot. assembly in the low deck shafiroff 598 is a custom one, they talked about it in an hot rod article. I think they use extra long rods and custom pistons.
It destillates down to: As big, high compressed & high reving as possible.

If any of you guys know of any builds of that nature, feel free to post and share here. May it be forum member builds or crate engines from suppliers.

I am just very interested in the different part combinations and want to get an image of the several ways builders achieved this goal..
 

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The main point is 1000 hp n/a is not cheap. It requires money and a dedicated chassis to do it. No matter how many times it鈥檚 posted that these engines exist as crate engines they are not engines for stock chassis cars. Period. A big inch tall or short deck motor requires a dedicated oil system for long stroke. I would not put longer than a 4.25 stroke in a chassis with a stock type pan. They lose oil pressure. And 1000 hp in n/a anything is not practical or even drivable. It鈥檚 still a dedicated race engine. And pump gas just means it鈥檚 a detuned race engine. People throw around hp numbers and have ZERO idea how much power it takes to go fast. It鈥檚 common place to have 700 hp today and not be able to get out of the 11 sec range with it. Truth is 1000 hp in a 3300 lbs car is 8.60-8.80 in the 1/4 mile. Not the area for a stock chassis car at all.
 

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Another option is supercharging via various add-ons. Cost can vary greatly depending on what you do. There is a gentleman here (I can't remember his logon) with a 4 door turbo Chevelle running super fast. I would talk to him for advice/hints re how to set up a "reliable" and "simple system" for your "intended use"

I think the plan for a car should start with "intended use", and built from rear to front not front to rear. At least that is what I learned and did and was never disappointed
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Isn't putting cheap and 1,000HP in the same sentence the absolute definition of an oxymoron?
therefore i put it in quotation marks. What is rather meant is cost effective aka power/dollar, good enough for 10k miles.
 

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The 10,000 miles will be difficult with 1000HP N/A. I would think 800+ is about the limit for a streetable N/A engine with extended life. Anything is possible but at 1000HP you will need some higher RPM and big camshaft lift that will kill the reliability. That's the beauty of turbos and fuel injection, smaller cams that drive well and less RPM to extend the engine life.
Something like this N/A:

 

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That BLuepring engine and others like it are tall block with heads with raised exhaust ports, Plan on a set of custom headers, $1k to $2k extra. Kooks and Lemons are known good.
 
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CHEAP and big horsepower don't go together...at least to me they don't. As mentioned, you can have one or the other, but not both. Parts alone to withstand that type of power won't be cheap. 1000 HP engines aren't cheap by any means. Ask me how I know...
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Yeah you can spend 20k or 30k on an engine, it still can be cost effective if its power/dollar ratio is good for an engine on that power level. Thats what i mean. Therefore the quotation marks in the threads title: "cheap"

I am interested in the technical solutions and approaches followed the aftermarket offers to achieve the said goal.

It appears there are quite some reputable builders offering 1000 HP NA Pump gas builds..
 

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Well just like steelcomp said. Not many people realize what it takes to make a REAL Na pump gas 1000hp. The valve train required is pretty serious. As well the induction system. Thats why I say nitrous is cheapest bang for the buck deal. I am sure someone could build a pretty cost effective long block that would take a 3-400shot.
You can't do more then a 225 shot on pump gas.
Bloodviking
 

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The 1000 hp mark using cost effective parts on pump gas is every car guys dream. Even with a supercharger that's hard. 8 psi 427 good heads at 400 cfm. 700 to 750 hp. But then add 225 nos. On pump gas you have to build a large cid engine or try this cheap combo. Twin turbos from China or diesel used ones. Then buy a snow performance kit and crank up the boost to 20 pounds. That should do it, on pump gas.

Bloodviking
 

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The 1000 hp mark using cost effective parts on pump gas is every car guys dream.
Naw, some car guys understand that 1000 hp isnt even close to streetable. Maybe some dream of an 8 sec pro mod tho with all the non-streetable chassis mods to handle 1000. Me, I still dream of exotic chics is all.

PS I joked about a sticker before ( last year), but frankly 1000 hp is simply a big round number. Sort of irrelevant.
 

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CHEAP and big horsepower don't go together...at least to me they don't. As mentioned, you can have one or the other, but not both. Parts alone to withstand that type of power won't be cheap. 1000 HP engines aren't cheap by any means. Ask me how I know... View attachment 707774
Looks like you picked one of the more expensive ways to do it!
 
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