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67 Camaro SS/RS L78 M20 Convertible
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Hi guys,
i am thinking of this idea and i wanted to know all of your opinions or rather recipes.
I know cheap is a relative term, but i mean more like cost effective, avoiding costly custom solutions if possible.
It should still at least hold up for at least 10k miles on the street.

So how would you do it, how would your build look like to achieve 1000+ gross hp NA on pump gas with a BBC?

Here is one example of what i am talking about. Is it actually possible at all to do it with less than 20k?
598 Big Block Chevy Twisted SR20 Pump Gas Engine
 

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Big cubes - min 565, perhaps up to a 632. The bigger the engine, the more likely you will need a tall deck block.

Heads is where the power is at. - AFR 377-385s or maybe BMF 385s

Pretty much will need a custom solid roller to optimize the combo

A dual quad setup will the easiest way to 1000 hp na. Stick with carbs to keep the cost down.

Personally I think that Shafiroff engine appears to be a great value and gives exactly what you want.
 

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I don't know I think I would go with less HP and get something that can actually fit in a car. You will need a really tall hood and don't know what headers you need for the SR20 heads. They have the SS package which is like 850 hp. What would be kind of neat is an all aluminum block, now your not going to get any power out of it but nice not to have the extra 150 pounds up front as they use Merlin blocks for the 598 which I am sure tip the scales at least 280 pounds. Not sure about the 10,000 miles on the street you would have to ask them and what spring pressure they have etc. Of course it does not stop there you will spend nearly the same amount on motor getting car ready with rear, trans, exhaust, fuel system and other stuff. Keep us posted on progress.
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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The race engine shop that built my short block had a 498 on the dyno that he was shooting for 1,150, was a little under 1100 hp when I was there, 3.xx stroke and big bore like 4.5 or 4.6 and some strange looking heads that I think he said pontiac? and solid roller cam, he was having trouble with valve springs, it was a single 4bbl but was for a class dragster and sounded like it, probably gets rebuilt every season so no 10k mile motor there for sure, but maybe short stroke big bore has a power advantage?? Then again strokers been around a long time for a reason
 

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Cheapest way to 1000hp.... all these recommendations are pretty pricey.

Bang for the buck.... nitrous wins every time!
 

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To make 1K hp on pump gas means you have to move enough air and fuel to make 1K hp. You either do it with displacement or power adder. Neither is cheap. I've made 900hp on pump gas, n/a, one carb on a 557, and two carbs and TR on a 540. I've made over 1K several times, but with blowers and nitrous. That extra 100hp to hit 1K is a whole different story. I don't think you'll do it for 20K. The cost isn't necessarily making the power, it's buying/using parts that will live at that power level for more than a few minutes.
That Shafiroff engine is "less carb and ignition" and that engine would absolutely need a vacuum pump. Personally, I would never build a short deck engine with a 4.5" stroke but that 598" combination in a tall deck would be a good build and probably make very close to 1K hp.
 

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Cheapest way to 1000hp.... all these recommendations are pretty pricey.

Bang for the buck.... nitrous wins every time!
Problem with nitrous is that it is a consumable and over time get's pretty pricey. That said, nitrous engines aren't exactly N/A as the OP stated. When trying to fit a 1000 hp bb in a Chevelle without frame modifications windage will likely become an issue so careful thought has to go into the combo. It can be done, I'm just not so sure about the overall cost. If you want the thing to live you have to procure parts that are tough.
 

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Cheapest way to 1000hp.... all these recommendations are pretty pricey.

Bang for the buck.... nitrous wins every time!
Not if it cost you $12 a pound. Just found that out yesterday when I asked after filling my Argon bottle.
 

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Hi guys,
i am thinking of this idea and i wanted to know all of your opinions or rather recipes.
I know cheap is a relative term, but i mean more like cost effective, avoiding costly custom solutions if possible.
It should still at least hold up for at least 10k miles on the street.

So how would you do it, how would your build look like to achieve 1000+ gross hp NA on pump gas with a BBC?

Here is one example of what i am talking about. Is it actually possible at all to do it with less than 20k?
598 Big Block Chevy Twisted SR20 Pump Gas Engine
865 torque @ 5500 . WOW !!! lol
That things gonna roast the tires at a hundred mph
If you were in the US I'd suggest goin for 700 or MAYBE 800hp for the street but hey you've got autobahn .
That motor you put up there for 20 grand looks like a good deal to me .
Some of the builders on here may have a better idea though
 

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I鈥檝e tried same, tough road for 9.8 deck
Decided on having a 555 93 oct street/strip built ~800hp.
Having it built to take 250 shot
I鈥檓 at $15k now w/o any nitrous
Trans/rear will take 1k hp
As soon as you go over 650 hp it starts adding up quickly with other things that need upgraded
I seriously considered a 496 w/ nitrous which saves $2.5k for aftermarket block
 

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Well just like steelcomp said. Not many people realize what it takes to make a REAL Na pump gas 1000hp. The valve train required is pretty serious. As well the induction system. Thats why I say nitrous is cheapest bang for the buck deal. I am sure someone could build a pretty cost effective long block that would take a 3-400shot.
 

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Reminds me of few bracket racers, whose cars were always running the number, with 500 plus runs between basic rebuilds, vs cars with the valve covers, heads off often, frustrated racers with inconsistent cars

translation = I would take reliability and less HP any day for a street / bracket type car, over a 1000 HP engine, that cost me $25K plus , needs roller lifters, valve springs changed every so often, plus more $ dumped into it just to keep it running.

+ I would rather have the engine built by one pf the reputable builders on this site, than a mail order house.
 

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Obviously big displacement is a must for that power level without power adders. Usually many builders will reach for some pretty healthy RPM to attain such a power level, but with the kind of stroke required for an N/A engine, I'm pretty sure that means some expensive bottom end parts, ( ie. crank and connecting rods) that will hold up to 7,000+ RPM. In light of that, AFIAK the easiest way to get there would be those Brodix SR20 heads, because they sure do breath very well. They have 440cc intake ports, and they flow over 500 cfm on the intake side.

The SR20 heads need special pistons, special intake manifold, and custom headers. They also require a shaft rocker system too. That's why most, ( if not all) engines with those heads are at least $20K. Last time I looked, those heads alone are well over $6K, and then you have to spend another $1k to $2k for the shaft rockers. I know that Lemons headers make headers for those heads, but there again that's yet another $1,800 right there.

The only reason I haven't opted for the SR20 heads, (other than the major costs) is due to the fact that the required brodix intake manifold is 7.9" tall, and that would bring the engine right through my factory stock 70 cowl induction hood unless I wanted to driver around without an air cleaner assembly, (which would be crazy). And Dan Lemons told me that because the exhaust ports on those heads have an angle difference of 5 degrees compared to aftermarket standard 24/26 degree BBC heads, my current $1,800 custom Lemons headers would not work, and I'd have to drop more coin on another set.

Shafiroff claims to be making 1,050 hp on pump gas with their 632cid engine with those same SR20 heads at merely 6,400 RPM with a 10.75:1 static compression ratio. But once you get into the 4.75" stroke of the 632, you then need oil pans which will most likely have you cutting up the frame in the front cross member area to fit the pan.
 

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Here is one example of what i am talking about. Is it actually possible at all to do it with less than 20k?
598 Big Block Chevy Twisted SR20 Pump Gas Engine
AFAIK, the short answer is: I think you would be hard pressed to find a way to do it for less than $20K if you want the engine to live for awhile, (as Scott Foxwell has indicated). Because of what I pointed out in my last post above about the SR20 cylinder heads, I believe that attaining 1,000 HP N/A on pump gas is achieved the easiest way with those SR20 heads. But those heads are $6K + and require expensive shaft rockers, and custom pistons. So I don't see you doing it for less $$ than that.
 
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