[GoFast Beaumont]

so this will be my first time hitting a chassis dyno with my car. I have been quite a few times in the past but it was my not my car so I never really thought out what to bring. any recommendations on top of my list, more than likely forgetting the basics already?

vacuum gauge
timing light
spark plugs + tools for spark plugs
spark plug wires
full tank of gas
fresh oil change
misting bottle for cooling radiator and intercooler down
wastegate springs (not everyone brings this)
laptop for tuning

 

[-SS454-]

can of brake cleaner. Good for cleaning, but also good for finding vacuum leaks.

I don't think you need misting bottle for rad/intercooler. If it's not something you will see on the street or track, you are just contaminating your data. Besides those industrial fans they use blow a hell of a lot of air and they can keep them on when the engine is off.

Bringing some basic hand tools is recommended as you may need to pull a valve cover, remove dizzy, remove throttle body, etc.

Verify WOT, that it's running on all 8 cylinders with correct firing order, and make sure everything is mechanically correct before going to the dyno.

Do a good 30-45 min drive before going to the dyno. You want your gear and trans fluid to be hot otherwise your 2nd run on the dyno could show an increase in power that was down to driveline temps, and not a tune.

Also I recommend going in with a game plan, especially with EFI.

• know how to use the Holley Software before you show up.
• get your baseline
• I like to tune the fuel first until you know what the engine likes and perhaps doesn't like
• then I like to hit the timing to again see what the engine likes or doesn't like
• you probably don't need to do much blending of your fuel or spark tables at the dyno, as you probably don't wnat to spend much more than 10 mins in tuning between pulls.

Looking forward to hearing what she makes. Are you hopin to hit the big 1000?

 

[BillK]

I would ask the guy who's dyno you are using. Every setup is different and some have more available than others.

 

[bracketchev1221]

A case of beer to celebrate when it goes well!!! And if it doesn’t, well now you don’t have to go far for the beer. But like bill said, see what the shop has. For example some shops have jets, carb spacers, new plugs etc. but I think you have a good handle on the odd stuff for your car that only you have.

 

[Hotwire]

Zipties, charging cable for your laptop and phone, a mount so you can video the event for us. Rags, small cooler with drinks/snacks in it if the dyno is remote. Your head is going to be in full game mode worrying about the car, don't forget to feed it to keep yourself going, it's hard being stressed out and your mind not thinking clearly.

This was my choked down, emissions legal 5.3L LS swap in my daily driver blazer. I asked the dyno guy if I could tune in between runs and he agreed to allow me the time. Unfortunately I forgot my charging cable and the laptop died datalogging the 2nd run..

 

[Lew540]

Well the good news if your car is running good you won't be disappointed and remember that the Turbo 400 / 12 bolt etc will take 25% or so of your power. So 800 motor hp becomes 600 tire hp. I think where a lot of people get disappointed is the loss of power and what the dyno shows (potential mistakes etc). Also without a good exhaust the loss could be 30%. I think what happens is they think they have 500 motor hp but not tuned right to begin with (which is what dyno is for), loose converter, not the right exhaust etc. and they come away with like 325 tire hp out of a 500 hp motor but the dyno tuning / new parts can help them get some of that back. I think also people with automatics with no lock up converter (high stall) think they get this big graph starting at 2500 rpm when in reality it is going to be a short graph beginning at the stall of the converter. Mine I have a graph from like 4,300 to 6,500 rpm. My 540 which has about 750 or so hp at motor is like 575 at the tire. Keep us posted on results. Below is mine.

 

[ChevelleFan70]

OPs list is real good start.

Spare plugs, or alternate heat range.

Hook up your laptop the night before, make sure everything is connecting/reading-out ok. Save the current config for your baseline. Know how to record/playback a datalog! Take a towel or something if you want to set it on the roof. (reviewing data). Verify your commanded timing on the EFI is what you're actually getting at the balancer, and check at different RPMs.

If you've gone in the past with your buddies, get one of them to come along. Extra eyes/ears/hands are always helpful.

-Dave

 

[GoFast Beaumont]

thanks for the tips. different heat range is a good one to bring given the NA power output and the boosted output

the end goal will be 1000hp crank for now. ultimately my setup is good for 1400-1500hp. Right now i don't feel like messing around with race gas/E85, just a pump friendly deal.

Given the T56 manual and Dana 60 i believe it should be 15% driveline losses.

If time permits I want to do some mid range 'cruise' tuning. Really like to see above 17mpg this year.

 

[CDN SS]

Make sure clutch is adjusted right Chassis dyno is very hard on clutches Never go with a new clutch thats not broken in

 

[bradley67]

I know I’m late to this thread - but in case you haven’t hit the chassis dyno yet remember no slicks or street slicks.
Most chassis dyno’s will shred or feather the slicks. At least the ones I’ve had my cars on.

 

[540 Olds]

LEW 540 wrote: "My 540 which has about 750 or so hp at motor is like 575 at the tire.."

My 540/725hp made 540 at the wheel many years ago, through full 3" exhaust. The drivetrain does eat a lotta power, and converter slippage is a factor, so don't be disappointed when you see the number at the wheel.

Have a PLAN of how you want to tune, and what you want to test. If it's a DynoJet, it'll be fairly sensitive to changes.

 

[ChevelleFan70]

So.. 2 weeks.. did you ever hit the dyno??

-Dave