[cowboyz1970]

I have a 1969 ss 396 car with bench and column shift i want to convert it to buckets and console shift. I want to keep column because it a tilt wheel so i have a couple of question here. #1 once i take off shiftier arm from column do they make a piece that can replace that one piece where the knob went your do i have to replace whole column? #2 once i take out bench seat will the bucket seats bolt in or will i have to drill them end? And #3 whats that part called once i cut out for shiftier hole in pan that i have to weld in? #4 and once that's done is there brackets already on floor so console can bolt up to it? Thanks any advice or knowledge would greatly be accepted. lol thank you.

 

[Postsedan]

Re: chenging 69 chevelle bench to bucket seats

I love a bench seat on the column, I would leave it as is

Dan

 

[vetteman_72]

To answer your questions:
#1- I have seen those bowls from the column on ebay- others might be able to confirm if they are available aftermarket, as replacements.

#2- There are many posts on bench to bucket seat conversions, but basically, you need a kit marketed by the aftermarket suppliers that provides you with 2 brackets for each seat. One is very small, and just provides a mounting point for the outboard seat track in the front- (so just the outboard rear bolt hole is used ) The inboard perch uses a bracket that gets welded to the floorpan and allows bolting the inner seat track to it. Measurements are rather critical for proper alignment- get it right the first time. Point of importance: There are two different types of bracket kits, a cheap one, and the better one. Spend the bucks for the better one.

#3- Shifter hole? There is nothing needed for the shifter cable hole- a rubber boot (seal) prevents fumes and water from migrating in around the cable, and a plate that has 3 holes for sheetmetal screws to hold the boot in place.

#4-Console bracket- there is a bracket that gets welded to the floor- actually the tranny tunnel, back towards the rear of the console, that has a flat top surface. There are two holes inside the console glovebox that accept sheetmetal screws to secure the back. Specific measurements dictate where this bracket is welded, and again if ou search for this, the dimensions are out there. The front of the console is secured to the shifter assembly- there are dimples in the tranny tunnel sheetmetal that assist in locating the position of the shifter assembly.

Good luck!

 

[NickeyChevelle]

#1 once i take off shiftier arm from column do they make a piece that can replace that one piece where the knob went your do i have to replace whole column? #2 once i take out bench seat will the bucket seats bolt in or will i have to drill them end? And #3 whats that part called once i cut out for shiftier hole in pan that i have to weld in? #4 and once that's done is there brackets already on floor so console can bolt up to it?

#1) No. You can replace the column or modify the bowl or leave it as is.
#2) No. You'll need to have Bucket Seat Brackets welded in.

#3) I don't know what part you mean.
#4) No. You'll need to install (pop rivet or weld) a Rear Console Bracket.

 

[barrrf]

#3 - I think he is referring to the tunnel patch.

 

[BigDogCaine]

I HIGHLY recommend that you invest the $40 and time into the bench-to-bucket adapters that are less than $40. They can be purchased through OPGI. If you don't use them you will have to drill through your floorboard and the bucket seats will sit at a weird and uncomfortable angle.

If you are going to go to console shift you will likely need a "shifter hump". You can buy them for $60-$70 and they are already stamped and shaped correctly. Check the usual suspects (OPGI, Eckler, etc.). Your biggest challenge will likely be properly locating the area where you need to cut on the transmission tunnel. Measure twice, then check and measure again, and then repeat that process as many times as needed if in doubt. Two words of advice on cutting: START SMALL!

The shifter hump was only tack-welded and sealed in original console cars and you only need to remove enough metal in the transmission tunnel to provide clearance for your shifter and shift assembly. The shifter hump panel does not need to be "sectioned-in" to the actual floorboard. In case you're thinking you don't need a shifter hump be advised that it helps support the front of the console unit.

Just a tip, plan on doing the console conversion and seat brackets at the same time. You'll need to remove the seats and carpet and you'll be welding in there so it's a perfect time to do both.

There is a small metal bracket that you can buy to weld in to the transmission tunnel. Some guys opt to make their own bracket but this I think it costs about $10. Also, some people screw the bracket to the trans tunnel instead of welding it. Each to their own.

Good luck to you and keep us updated as things progress!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[Alan F]

Just for clarification, an auto trans means no shifter hump for console. Yes there are brackets to hold the console that must be added but no hump.

 

[cowboyz1970]

thanks its going to be a auto console

 

[jbarberggd]

As a matter of fact there is a "sticky" at the beginning of this forum about this conversion. I have done this conversion twice now and learned everything here. There is no need for a "hump" with the automatic just a 7/8" hole, and the boot and hold down bracket comes with your shifter cable. On my first conversion I just cut the knob off the steering column flush and filled with bondo and painted, nobody was the wiser.