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Carrier Removal, Clean Case

1158 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  onick
Hi guys, bear with me as i'm not too familar with diff internals. I'm going to have my 12 bolt rebuilt, so i'm gonna tear it down, clean, paint, then send to a shop to get setup/rebuilt.

I have attached a 'sequence' to remove the carrier. Please correct me if i'm you see anything i should look out for

1) remove retaining bolt for cross shaft
2) With bolt removed, remove cross shaft to bump in axles to get to c-clips,remove c-clips,remove axles, re-install crossshaft and retainer bolt
3)Remove bearing caps(mark so they go back in the same), remove carrier assembly(shims too). Then remove wheel seals/bearings,ect

I think this will get me far enough so I can thoroughly clean the inside/outide of the housing, then paint,new bushings and send out to get rebuilt.

One more question! My vent is snapped off. Do i just drill out the old one? Where can I get a new one?


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Don't paint it until you get it back. I hate it when someone brings me a painted housing to rebuild. It's not easy to hold one of these when you are working on it, and if it's painted then it's just about impossible to hold it without damaging the paint.

When you mark the caps, don't center punch the left cap. Just mark the right cap. There is no need to mark them both, and the left cap carries more load than the right, so if a cap is going to break it will be the left one. If you punch it then that makes a weak spot on the cap. Just put a light punch mark on the tab on the right cap and put another mark on the housing next to it.
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Yes, setting the pinion depth is the hardest part. If you are keeping the same gears then they might want to use the same shims as a starting point. Chances are that these shims will be correct, or close.
I agree with Tom on this. You need reference photos of the pattern and you need to know what the backlash is so that it can be set the same again. I do this whenever I'm replacing bearings and using the same gears again, or just changing the differential.
When checking the backlash you must be sure that the pinion can not move any at all. If the pinion moves even very slightly it will give you a false backlash reading, which can screw up the set up when putting everything back togehter.

When marking the gears use an axle to turn everything. Just stick an axle in there and turn it everal times in both directions and your pattern will be clear and easy to read.
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