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I suggest a Pro Systems carb custom made to your application:) just provide them your data here
Quote / Order Form + you get a build sheet with all your settings
i have 3 of them on 2 cars , they have been dead on out of the box ... and faster
 

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I run a Quick Fuel 950 on my 540. It has a Dominator bolt spacing but a 4150 body. So I run Dominator manifolds but have what looks like a 4150 on top. I have run a (Dominator style) 454R and Merlin X manifolds the 454R was 5.9 inches and high Merlin X 6.2 inches high. I remember seeing magazine dyno tests on a 540 (almost 800 hp) and the big jump (like 20 hp) was actually going from the 4150 manifold to a dominator style while using the same carb. The story was they had a 540 that started out at like 650 hp and they said how can we get to 800 hp so they changed all these things and got to 799 hp. It was like 10 things they did and they dynoed it after each change. They did a lot like - heads, cam, intake, carb header size etc. It was great for me because I could see what worked and what did not. So some of the power jump gain (950 to 1050 Dominator) could be disguised with the change in the manifold itself. Sure at some point the Dominator is going to win at but a what power level is the cross over after factoring in manifold. On this dyno test it did not really show up after you took into account the manifold change (it might have been 10 hp). I think in the Vizard book I think he said like 750 hp or so was the cross over.
 

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Here is my set up with the 4150/4500 base. On the throttle cable bracket if you go with one like I have here, the problem is nobody that I knew of at the time I did this make the bracket had the 4500 spacing but the necessary clearance to clear the stuff that a 4150 has. The 4500 bracket runs into a bunch of things like the 4150 pump squirter arm the 41540 does not work as the spacing is wrong and you can oval the hole out enough to make it work. Thus, if you do this approach you need to use a 4150 bracket but cut like 3/8 of an inch out of the middle and use aluminum channel to bolt it back together (see photo). I think I had to grind another area also to clear some linkage near the carb as it is a 4150 but stuff has been moved out for the 4500 base. Also another route but does not work - is the little bracket you could use that would fit in the back notch (like OEM) does not work as the 4500 bolt spacing makes that area unusable for those types of brackets (rounded thus they wiggle a lot). Here are some photos may save you some time on making it work. I also have a functional
cheveeng2020.jpg
cowl hood so the extra clearance helps.

engine2021a.jpg
engine2021b.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Here is my set up with the 4150/4500 base. On the throttle cable bracket if you go with one like I have here, the problem is nobody that I knew of at the time I did this make the bracket had the 4500 spacing but the necessary clearance to clear the stuff that a 4150 has. The 4500 bracket runs into a bunch of things like the 4150 pump squirter arm the 41540 does not work as the spacing is wrong and you can oval the hole out enough to make it work. Thus, if you do this approach you need to use a 4150 bracket but cut like 3/8 of an inch out of the middle and use aluminum channel to bolt it back together (see photo). I think I had to grind another area also to clear some linkage near the carb as it is a 4150 but stuff has been moved out for the 4500 base. Also another route but does not work - is the little bracket you could use that would fit in the back notch (like OEM) does not work as the 4500 bolt spacing makes that area unusable for those types of brackets (rounded thus they wiggle a lot). Here are some photos may save you some time on making it work. I also have a functional View attachment 705483 cowl hood so the extra clearance helps.

View attachment 705481 View attachment 705482
[
Thanks for the reply, that is exactly what I was thinking of doing.
 

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Lew, agree with everything you stated Sir. That article sounds like an all out search resulting in max HP and at what RPM? 7000+? With all kinds of other changes of parts to match or move the RPM higher. I like the Dominator and larger greater running intake as well but my hesitation is he's staying under 6000rpm, a 3.54 rear gear, his cam limitation and a 2.48 first gear. Hopefully he has a nice 3000 converter. My statement of 'giving up to much down low' was basically saying that he will never see any of those gains that a large single plane brings as he's under 6000rpm. Even if the engine has enough HP/TQ to keep from getting flat on the bottom end. I got that he just wanted to add max air. That's a dual plane RPM air gap with 1" or 2" spacers and a 1000 to 1050 4150 carb territory. I just don't see the need and money for mixing parts and hassle of parts.

Nice setup Lew ! Super clean and professional.

I suggest a Pro Systems carb custom made to your application:) just provide them your data here
Quote / Order Form + you get a build sheet with all your settings
i have 3 of them on 2 cars , they have been dead on out of the box ... and faster
Oliver, their King Cobra and Venom look awesome. Ill have to give them a look.

Mike
 
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Thanks for comments guys. When I saw what OP was doing I said hey I have been down this path here and this is what I found out. On the 540/rpm I think it was up there like 6,800 at 799 hp. It was a great article as they tested all the stuff I had or wondered about. The area under the curve for what the OP is doing (under 6,000 rpm most of the time) kind of like I did the 950 with Dominator Intake. I think on the 1050 cfm 4150 style the issue they run into is the venturi becomes too big for the throttle body and you get a weak low end signal. So on the 4150 the 950 is about as big as you want to go before going to Dominator (for street purposes). In other words if your throttle blades are 1.75 inches you don't want the venturi to be no bigger than 1.50 inches (the Brunulli thing) or something like that for signal response which is very important for pooping around on the street. The only way to get a 4150 to run 1050 cfm is making venturi like 1.6 inches or something like that. I ran a Dominator on the street for almost 20 years with my 540 and it worked pretty good, it was one of those C&S aerosol billets (the car would start easily even if 20 degrees out). The 4150 gives me some more under hood room and when we did a chassis dyno the 4150 made a little more power (same intake) about 575 hp at the tire at like 6,300 rpm peak tq was like 525 at 5,000 or so. The throttle response is very good with 4150 and the 540. The 540 being so big the Dominator was not too bad on the street. My cam is a little bigger than his 255/263 at .050 and 680 lift and a 4,000 stall and a 3.73 rear but that's pretty close to the 3.54 the OP has. I have Dart 320s ported to like 335 cc so similar to OP. For pooping around on the street the system above works pretty good and I would rather have area under the curve than 10-15 above 6,000 rpm.
 

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Lat year on my 406 I ran several "BIG" carburetors and most of them worked very well. The 1000 Mighty demon and the 830 Holley HP were very good and ran great numbers. I did try a 750 Dominator 2 circuit that I switched over to 1050 boosters and it was a monster at the track, so much so that I could not hook it up that day. I can say for sure that the 2 circuit was light years ahead of the 8896-1 circuit that I tested 1 week prior, that Dominator was very soggy and would have needed way to much work to make it useable. Lew540 I do like the 4150 on the Dominator intake that you are using, how does the car go with the adapted 4150?
 

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Hell, I run a Dart on both my engines and they don't complain. One a 4150 and the other a 4500. Everybody hates the lowly Dart intakes. 😁
I have tested my Oval port Dart several times, it has never impressed me much. I may need to port the plenum area some more like others have told me to get the best performance out of the Dart intakes.
 

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Great write-up Lew with some experience!

Mike
 

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I have tested my Oval port Dart several times, it has never impressed me much. I may need to port the plenum area some more like others have told me to get the best performance out of the Dart intakes.
Thing about Big Block Dart intakes is that they require much work to maximize and some welding. After that is finished they can be competitive but you're gonna remove an awful amount of aluminum to do it.
 

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I thin
No kidding . Never even considered it .
Gotta be good I'd imagine
Its dart lol
My Dart intakes perform well on my specific applications but I think Dart missed the mark on the intakes by not improving them over time. If a guy wants to invest in some die grinders and tools and has little to do he could eat up some time on them. That said, the experienced porter can carve an intake in much less time than a novice like myself and do a better job but the experienced porter is going to weigh his time vs dyno results and sell based on "best results with the least work". There are some who post in TC who are excellent at intake porting.
 

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I thin

My Dart intakes perform well on my specific applications but I think Dart missed the mark on the intakes by not improving them over time. If a guy wants to invest in some die grinders and tools and has little to do he could eat up some time on them. That said, the experienced porter can carve an intake in much less time than a novice like myself and do a better job but the experienced porter is going to weigh his time vs dyno results and sell based on "best results with the least work". There are some who post in TC who are excellent at intake porting.
Not to rob this guys thread but you ever have any experience as to how well edelbrock intakes work along with afr heads without any porting ? Sbc
 

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Not to rob this guys thread but you ever have any experience as to how well edelbrock intakes work along with afr heads without any porting ? Sbc
Imho is unusual for any out of the box head or intake to be optimal vs a head or intake which has been properly worked. They will "work" but imho you are leaving performance on the table by using out of the box components. And that includes cnc'd pieces.
 

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I thin

My Dart intakes perform well on my specific applications but I think Dart missed the mark on the intakes by not improving them over time. If a guy wants to invest in some die grinders and tools and has little to do he could eat up some time on them. That said, the experienced porter can carve an intake in much less time than a novice like myself and do a better job but the experienced porter is going to weigh his time vs dyno results and sell based on "best results with the least work". There are some who post in TC who are excellent at intake porting.
.

Makes me wonder if that was the intent to begin with. Leaving material so they can be adapted to a wide variety with porting. Kind of like an 80% solution for the race crowed or some with the ability to put time in to. Makes me want to buy on just to finish and match it to something.

Mike
 

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Lat year on my 406 I ran several "BIG" carburetors and most of them worked very well. The 1000 Mighty demon and the 830 Holley HP were very good and ran great numbers. I did try a 750 Dominator 2 circuit that I switched over to 1050 boosters and it was a monster at the track, so much so that I could not hook it up that day. I can say for sure that the 2 circuit was light years ahead of the 8896-1 circuit that I tested 1 week prior, that Dominator was very soggy and would have needed way to much work to make it useable. Lew540 I do like the 4150 on the Dominator intake that you are using, how does the car go with the adapted 4150?
The car cars very well with the 4150 adaptation the one thing they sell you or need to get is this modified one inch Super Sucker spacer adapter thing that blends the 4150 into the the 4500 hole (its like 4 little funnels that span out to the big 4500 square - nice transition piece and helps with the signal). The one thing I mention here above is getting the linkage right as I said it is a neither here (4150) nor there (4500) so you kind of need to make your own. They may have something out now if now as these carbs are beginning to become more mainstream. So if your manifold is 6 inches it will now be 7 inches with the Super Sucker thing. I just put this Merlin X (ported by Tony Mamo) on so I have not tested it with this yet.
 

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Imho is unusual for any out of the box head or intake to be optimal vs a head or intake which has been properly worked. They will "work" but imho you are leaving performance on the table by using out of the box components. And that includes cnc'd pieces.
Yeah I'll just have it ported before I even run it then. Not trying to leave one ounce on the table lol
 

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The car cars very well with the 4150 adaptation the one thing they sell you or need to get is this modified one inch Super Sucker spacer adapter thing that blends the 4150 into the the 4500 hole (its like 4 little funnels that span out to the big 4500 square - nice transition piece and helps with the signal). The one thing I mention here above is getting the linkage right as I said it is a neither here (4150) nor there (4500) so you kind of need to make your own. They may have something out now if now as these carbs are beginning to become more mainstream. So if your manifold is 6 inches it will now be 7 inches with the Super Sucker thing. I just put this Merlin X (ported by Tony Mamo) on so I have not tested it with this yet.
For linkage I picked up some 3/8" aluminum hex rod, calculated the required length, drilled and tapped the ends and added a pair of heim ends for connections to carb and throttle lever from the pedal.
 

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The car cars very well with the 4150 adaptation the one thing they sell you or need to get is this modified one inch Super Sucker spacer adapter thing that blends the 4150 into the the 4500 hole (its like 4 little funnels that span out to the big 4500 square - nice transition piece and helps with the signal). The one thing I mention here above is getting the linkage right as I said it is a neither here (4150) nor there (4500) so you kind of need to make your own. They may have something out now if now as these carbs are beginning to become more mainstream. So if your manifold is 6 inches it will now be 7 inches with the Super Sucker thing. I just put this Merlin X (ported by Tony Mamo) on so I have not tested it with this yet.
I ran a super sucker . Cost me around 130 I think it was . Ran good/better but then through some research I learned that phenolic or even better yet wood laminate spacers are better as they dont conduct heat .. I bought a laminate spacer for 40 bucks.
Put that on there and yes I felt the dif.
Super sucker did have swiveled holes . Laminate didnt .
 

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The Ultra XP carbs have a design flaw in the body which creates turbulence and poor booster signal. The 950 has too large of a venturi at 1.6". I would either go custom from Jmarkaudio, Thumper carbs, or go with a Quick Fuel Q1050AN for an off the shelf carb. But they need some reworking as well such as emulsion, transfer slot restrictors, IFR relocation, etc. Usually $300 range for the work. So then you might as well get a custom billet carb!
 
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