[LXS]

I was working on my car yesterday, then when I was done, I figured I might as well change my starter since I was already dirty. Well to make a long story short, I got the new starter and installed it. Hooked up the wires, but I assumed that I crossed the wires because the car didn't start. So I switched the wires thinking the were hooked up wrong, and had the same result. I have power going to the lights and everything, but when I turn the ignition there's no current/power. No noise, no anything. By this time it was already really dark and cold, so I decided to put everything away. Before I did tho, I traced, as best I could, the wires from the starter on up to see if one may have broken or anything, but everything seemed ok. I'm figureing that it's gotta be some sort of ground problem, what do you guys think? Thanks a lot in advance guys!

 

[Dean]

Did it start OK before you removed the starter?
if so I doubt the bad ground theory unless you left it loose on the block.

71 I assume?
It only takes one wire (besides the positive battery cable) to make it work, the larger of the two small wires (purple) on the "S" terminal (small terminal closest to the block)

Make sure you have 12 volts on that wire when trying to start it.

Positive battery cable in good condition?

Maybe the new starter is bad?

Make any sparks when you were doing it?

 

[Chris R]

All of deans questions pretty much cover the possibilities in the starter and wiring. All I can think of is to check and make sure your ignition switch is good. Even if it was working before hand.

Chris.

 

[onick]

tap the selenoid a bit. See if that helps out any. Nice firm taps, but don't annihilate the thing

 

[Finally]

My son installed a brand new Bosch starter in his girl friends car, just a few weeks ago. Started right up. Cleaned everything up, wouldn't start, new starter was bad.

 

[LXS]

The starter I had was already going out. It was making all kinds of clacking noise when I'd hit the ignition. I've had "bad luck" with starters for a loooooooong time now. Only reason I've put up with it is because the starter is a Pep boy's stater which has lifetime warrenty on it. I'm soo fed up with it now, (yes it took me that long!

) that I'm gonna start saving up for a new flex plate and mini-starter...but that won't be for a good while.
Yeah Dean, it's a 71

As for ignition, I have an MSD 6AL, Blaster 2 coil, and my distributor was convertered to a magnetic pickup. Both batter cables are in good condition, but which "stud" does the purple wire hook up to? When looking at the solenoid, doesn't it hook up to the "stud" on the right? I'd look in my reference book, but I left it in my trunk at my grandparent's house....it's good to have grandparents!
Only thing holding me back from tapping the solenoid is the heat shield I installed on it. Other then that, I'm soooooo hoping that by chance I got a bad starter. Thanks a lot everyone, if there's anything else, other ideas or possibilities, please, keep 'em coming!

 

[drptop70ss]

Purple wire goes to the "S" terminal on the solenoid which is closes to the engine block. Try turning the key with the door open and watch your dome light. If it doesnt dim when you try to start the car the starter isnt drawing any current. I would pull the starter out and bench test it.

 

[Sk8Crash69]

When I bought my Brand new PowerMaster starter i put that bad boy on and all it would do is my the engaging sound and then a spinning sound... so U took it off connected it to a battery, it spun perfect... I was getting real mad now so I took it to a starter/alterntor place they said whoever made it switch the motor around and it was spining the oposite way in which my engine needed so i got a new one and works great

Point of this story... Brand new starters can suck too

 

[Enganeer]

I had a electrical problem with my 64'. I would lose total electric power to everything. If I wiggled the harness inside just right, I could get power back. So I was trouble shooting the problem on the inside harness but everything checked out good. It turned out it the bulkhead harness connection between the engine and interior had gone bad. I had slighlty bend the pins for more contact. Put it back together and the problem was solved.

 

[LXS]

Well to make a loooong story shorter....
Figuring that I could pop start the car with a screw driver, I replaced the purple wire because it was in pretty bad shape and rerouted the new wire along with the power wire, and again, no luck. So I dropped the starter and took it back. I had to go to a Pep Boys that when in traffic, seems like it was faaaaaaar away. Anyway, I got another new starter, hooked it up, and nothing! Same thing, no power I messed with the wires, jiggled them around and finally I got some noise when I turned the ignition. Sounded like the battery was low. So I hooked up the jumper cables and it started right away! I let it idle for a couple mins, turned it off and on and it seemed like everything was well. About 5 minutes later, after I put everything away, I figured I'd turn it on for "good measure", and BAM!!! Samething again...NO POWER!!!

I ended up bypassing the "red" power wire (the one that connects with the positive battery cable) and hooked it up to the MSD box (which is the way it's always been hooked up), hopeing and wondering if that wire may be the culprit. Well, I turned the ignition and it did crank over, but that was it. I even swapped batteries hoping that that was my problem, and nothing. What do you guys think??? Is it my ignition???? I'm being lead to believe that it is. I've tried everything I can think of, and nothing works. I can pop start it with my screwdriver, but that's it. I'm thinking about installing a little toggle switch for the mean time, that way I can be able to drive my car around.
Well that was my day, what do you guys think? I really appreciate all the help guys!!!

 

[John_Muha]

There is an Electrical forum.
1, Does it jump start with another vehicle? If yes, bad battery. If no, step 2.
2, Does the starter spin when you jump it with a screwdriver. If yes, step 3. If no, either a bad starter or a bad negative cable connection. Probably on the alternator bracket.
(I assume you have a wire from battery (-) to the right inside fender.)
3, Use a meter. Measure the BAT terminal on the fuseblock to ground. You should have 12 volts. Leave the meter attached and turn the key to START. Does the voltage fall below 10 volts? If no, post back. If yes, measure across the battery while someone else cranks the car. See if voltage stays up there.
I can't tell without more information. Maybe a bad connection on the block behind the battery.

 

[Enganeer]

I would start at the battery, then work your way back.

Is the battery good?

How are the battery connections - corroded or clean?

Is the engine grounded from firewall to block, or going from battery to block?

What conditions are the cables? I had a truck with a bad battery cable. It was corroded within the cable. It looked fine on the outside, passed omhmeter test but it did not have enough for the current needed for the starter. Replaced the cable and all was good.

 

[LXS]

The battery that is in the car is an Optima yellow top battery. I swapped batteries thinking that was the problem, put my truck's battery which is an Exide "Nascar" battery with no luck. Battery cables look like they're in really great condition. Both battery's terminals have no corrosion whatsoevery. Battery is ground to alternator bracket.

Originally posted by John_Muha:
There is an Electrical forum.
1, Does it jump start with another vehicle? If yes, bad battery. If no, step 2.
2, Does the starter spin when you jump it with a screwdriver. If yes, step 3. If no, either a bad starter or a bad negative cable connection. Probably on the alternator bracket.
(I assume you have a wire from battery (-) to the right inside fender.)
3, Use a meter. Measure the BAT terminal on the fuseblock to ground. You should have 12 volts. Leave the meter attached and turn the key to START. Does the voltage fall below 10 volts? If no, post back. If yes, measure across the battery while someone else cranks the car. See if voltage stays up there.
I can't tell without more information. Maybe a bad connection on the block behind the battery.

1. Yes it can jump start with another vehicle. I even put in my truck's battery and it still didn't start.

2. Yes I can turn the car on using a screwdriver.

3. Can I rent a meter from a parts store?

 

[John_Muha]

If you can jump start it and the car fires up, it's battery or like John E. says the battery cables. When you jump it, where are you attaching the jumper cables to the car?
Inexpensive meters can be purchased from Harbor Freight, Radio Shack, Home Depot....

 

[LXS]

Originally posted by John_Muha:
When you jump it, where are you attaching the jumper cables to the car?

What do you mean?
I had to go move the car a while ago because of street cleaning. I had my dad help me out and give me a jump. The car started right away, but I noticed that my "GEN" light is on now...so somehow I ended up blowing either the voltage regulator or messed up the alternator...but I'm leaning towards the voltage regulator.

 

[John_Muha]

I mean can you put the jumper cables right to the cables on the battery? Does the car start? If it does your battery is weak. Charging the battery (GEN light on) is another problem.

 

[LXS]

Oh ok. Yeah, I clamp the jumper cables onto the battery posts. I haven't tried turning the car on immediately after clamping them on, I've let the car idle a bit to give the battery some juice, then I turn it on. Well hopefully once the rain lets up, I'll be able to do more. Until then the car has to sit

 

[Chevyboy]

LXS im thinking the ignition swith is you problem located on your steering column because if you use a screw driver and it turns which basically means that the power from the batter comes straight down the positive cable and connects to the large terminal on the starter. Along with another wire for your wiring harness that runs all your accessory's or that wire could be installed directly on the battery either or. Now you have you small post on the starter that the ignition wire connects to that comes from you ignition swith and when you turn the ignition swith to the crank position the shaft moves inside the ignition switch to complete the circuit and the power hits the starter i just thinking that the switch is bad and not completing the circuit,

 

[Dean]

Originally posted by Chevyboy:
LXS im thinking the ignition swith is you problem ............

I *think* he is saying all he has to do is connect jumper cables, let the battery charge up a few minutes from the other vehicle's system then his car starts OK.

 

[LXS]

Well I messed with it today and I finally got it going! To tell you the truth, I'm not really sure what "exactly" the problem was...so I'm going to assume it had to be a combo of my battery and my alternator wire "prong". To make a long story short, I ended up hooking up a bypass toggle switch and it didn't work ..lol I then found out my battery was completely dead! So I put in the battery from my old Ghia, which I gave to my dad, and it cranked right away! It just didn't turn on. I was figuring that it now it had to be a bad ground or something. I looked over all my wires and couldn't find anything wrong. Then I happened to shine the light on the alternator and seen that the "yellow" wire had broken off the prong/hook up. I bought a new one at Auto Zone, spliced it together, and after a few crankings, it finally started!

Thanks a lot everyone for all your info and advice!!!!