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My '72 is getting close to being street able and I'm down to the last few things on the list. I didn't do a frame off because all the measurements on the frame appear symmetrical. It was originally a 350/350 2bbl but now has a 454. When I put the big block in the car seemed to be an inch lower on the passengers side or higher on the drivers side I can't tell. But anyway I have replaced upper and lower control arms and put on new 2" drop spindles. Everything's brand new. Problem is the darn thing still isn't sitting level. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Good luck.........if you find the solution for your "Chevelle Lean" let the rest of us in on it so we can fix ours too. Theres been a ton of posts on this subject.
 

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Its funny reading this... only because my '64 was a bit low on the driverside too, before and after I installed a 454. For other reasons I replaced all control arms upfint, steering, installed disk brakes.. 2inch lowering springs.. of you look at it... still looks a bit off. Mine is more of a beater..... and its harder to tell with the changes.

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When replacing suspension parts, I leave all nuts and bolts loose bounce the car a few times. When this is done, And the car is sitting on a flat level surface....... Then with the car on the ground, I start to torque the suspension to the book torques.
This is what I have done and it worked for me.
Bob
 

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It is possible that one of your front coil springs is not seated in the upper pocket all the way. Just a thought.

Also-- the rear springs do effect how the front sits as well. You may want to have someone push down on the opposite corner of the car that is low and see what I mean.
 

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1969 Chevelle 2 Door Sport Coupe Malibu SS 396 clone
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:cool: As Todd stated the entire suspension is codependent and interdependent.

Take your Jack Stands and set them as "short" as possible. Park your car on a level surface. Use your Floor Jack to jack up the right front, remove the wheel/tire, and let the right front frame down onto one Jack Stand (which is placed just behind the right front wheel well). Then do the same with the left front. BE CAREFUL. At this point both your front wheels/tires are off and the car is resting on the frame and the Jack Stands -- by doing this you've removed the front suspension from the equation: your front suspension can no longer affect how the rear suspension sits. Now measure the distance from the floor to the top of the REAR wheel wells. If the distance is the same then your problem is with the front suspension. If the measurement is off then fix the rear suspension problem first: Check the isolators and replace them as necessary. You can try swapping the springs from one side to the other side. You can replace the springs and as a last resort you can try adding an extra isolator to the low side. BE CAREFUL: use another set of Jack Stands under the rear frame while you're working.

Once the rear suspension is level you can start on the front suspension problem. Put your wheels/tires back on (drive the car around the block) and measure the front wheel wells. If there's still a problem check to make sure the springs are seated properly, also check the isolators and replace them as necessary. Try swapping the springs from side to side, and try adding an isolator to the low side.

As Bob stated DO NOT tighten up any of the suspension bolts until you're done adjusting the suspension.

Good luck. ;)
 

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Just changed the entire front suspension on my 66, and had the same problem. Driver side was about 1.5 inches higher than the passenger side. (front and back) weird since i never touched the back suspension. BUT fixed the issue with a proper wheel alignment. Apparently my camber on the passenger side was WAY off, thus throwing off the ride height. Hope this helps!
 
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