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Well, the title says it all. I was jacking the car up to do some cleaning underneath, and the cross member slipped off the jack. Jack, meet oilpan. Oilpan, meet jack.:(

BIG OL' dent in the front of the pan. Motor gets pulled in the spring after only 1 season. Nice.:sad:

Crap.
 

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Well, the title says it all. I was jacking the car up to do some cleaning underneath, and the cross member slipped off the jack. Jack, meet oilpan. Oilpan, meet jack.:(

BIG OL' dent in the front of the pan. Motor gets pulled in the spring after only 1 season. Nice.:sad:

Crap.
I'm sorry to hear about that Dan. Is it necessary to pull the motor? I figured you could drop the pan and replace it.
 

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I'm sorry to hear about that Dan. Is it necessary to pull the motor? I figured you could drop the pan and replace it.
I'm 99% sure I'd need to do the same amount of draining, disconnecting, etc. so I could get the motor high enough the pull the pan, so I might as well yank it. I've also had numerous problems with leaking, so I want to be sure it gets done right the first time.
 

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With a BB, its very hard to pull the pan in the car, and even harder to get it back in (I won't say impossible, but close to it)...


Why wait until Spring? Might as well start now, and depending on what else you need/want to do, you could have it out-and-in in an easy weekend...
 

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Why wait until Spring? Might as well start now, and depending on what else you need/want to do, you could have it out-and-in in an easy weekend...
Working all weekend, also need to borrow my buddies engine hoist, order up a new pan, re-order my engine paint ( Bill Hirsch ). I may get it done before the cold weather hits, we'll see.
 

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If you didnt dent it far enough to hit the oil pump filter, I would weld something to the bottom and pull it out. Then paint it.
 

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Hey Dan a friend of mine showed me a neat trick with a dented oil pan. Take 1/4"-20 bolt and weld it to the pan. Take a slide hammer and snacht the dent out. Then cut the bolt and grind back flat and repaint. If you need to do more the one spot no problem. As long as you didn't damage the gasket area where it will cause a leak you should be fine. Just drain the oil before the welding.:thumbsup:
 

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The exact same thing happened to a friend of mine a couple months ago Dan. The jack slipped off the cross member and the full weight of the car, was on the jack which was on the oil pan. He called me right after it happened, and I went over to his house to check it out. He wanted to crank the motor over with out it starting, to see if I could here the crank, hitting the pan.

Long story short, the motor came out, the new pan was installed. Then he repainted the whole motor, and dropped it back in. No big deal really. Just not what you expect to do, shortly after the car is finally finished.

I'd just get out there and start by disconnecting the battery, draining the water, etc... The sooner it's fixed, the sooner you won't have to think about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The exact same thing happened to a friend of mine a couple months ago Dan. The jack slipped off the cross member and the full weight of the car, was on the jack which was on the oil pan. He called me right after it happened, and I went over to his house to check it out. He wanted to crank the motor over with out it starting, to see if I could here the crank, hitting the pan.

Long story short, the motor came out, the new pan was installed. Then he repainted the whole motor, and dropped it back in. No big deal really. Just not what you expect to do, shortly after the car is finally finished.

I'd just get out there and start by disconnecting the battery, draining the water, etc... The sooner it's fixed, the sooner you won't have to think about it.
I've already ordered a new pan, gasket & paint. I'll get cracking this week!:yes:
 

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Tough luck, sorry to hear your trouble. Some advice for next time, if you have some ramps, wood blocks, etc. to put under the tires as a 'safety drop', it'd be a very good idea. If the jack slipped off while you're jacking up the car, maybe welding a flat plate on the bottom of the crossmember is in order, with a short 'rail or fence' on 4 sides to prevent it from slipping out under any conditions....or just try driving it up on the ramps/blocks first.
 

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If the jack slipped off while you're jacking up the car, maybe welding a flat plate on the bottom of the crossmember is in order.
After reading this I'm thinking, Why not fabricate a cradle that would fit the jack itself. The jack plates on some jacks don't do very well in grabbing the crossmember. Most jacks allow the flange to be removed.
 
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