Very easy to do. But do you need to change your axel bearings too? New axels, OLD wheel bearings???????????
A few kits like Superior Axels (which I bought, U.S. made) come with new axle bearings and seals.
WAIT A MINUTE, C-CILP ELIMINATORS, CAN'T ANSWER THAT ONE
Hey Rich, my truck hookup fell through last week. But I will be running May 23rd with some other guys at Sacramento Raceway.
Anyway, I am just getting a heads up on hard it is to change axles incase I break mine while running my new slicks. I have no idea what bearings go where. So what would I need to change or at least know of? Superior axle kit sounds good.
When I rebuilt my 10 bolt, I pulled everything out, marking everything, and cleaned it myself. the axle bearings can be pulled by any competant shop. I had a local trany shop pull them for free. All you need is a slide puller and inside jaws. I then installed them myself using a hammer and bearing/seal installation bushings. I even changed all the inner bearings as well, but when you change those you have to reset the back lash and all. But the axle bearings are very very simple, with regards to the C-clip eliminators I have no idea.
-First you need to pull the old axles
-pull the seals and old inner tube bearings also
-next you need to review the instructions given with the c-clip eliminator company you bought them from.
-general install is like this...
1. You will need to mark the axle tube end where to cut the housing end that holds the inner bearing... You will usuall leave only about 1/8" nub from the backing plate (this is where you need to review your instructions some companies c-clip elim kits very)
2. you will need some kind of cutting tool If you have air a cut of wheel works well...I guess a reciprocating saw would work too.
3. stuff a wrag into the tube as to prevent metal shaving from going to far into the housing tube.
4. Mark and cut your line
5. debur the metal end you just cut and the backing plate where the c-clip elim bearing block will mount.... THIS IS IMPORTANT! The better that area is prepped the better chance you will NOT have a leak in the future.
6. you will need some shop to press on the elim block bearings on to your new or old axles...AGAIN follow the insrtuctions as they will tell you how far to press them down onto the shaft so that when you install them your drums will mount at the correct depth... IMPORTANT TIP! get this measurement correct.... You will NOT be able to move them again. I have my own press of course and test fit the axles before pressing on the final collar that will make the elim kit permenent.
7. slide the axles in to the housing wit all th egaskets in place with all the proper sealent as per instruction included in the elim kit...Bolt them in and reinstall all you brake components and drums.
Hopefully this will help figure out whether you want to tackle this project.
REMEMBER!!!! Once you have cut these ends off your diff you can not go back to c-clip axles with out major welding to your rear diff and it will prpbably NEVER be original again. SO think go and hard if you really need to go this route.
C-clip elim kits are really NOT ment for freeway driving etc. They are made for drag racing to prevent serios damage to you and the car from the shock loads a race car with trans break or high stick shift loads occur. If you are a foot brake racer and are doing it once in a while just get good aftermarket axles and call it a day that will protect you. I have raced my 4000 pound monte for 20 years on STOCK GM axles and it runs 12.0 with slicks I have never had an issue .
I am not say you do not need them for your car...JUst do you home work on whether you really need to install them. This is still your decision that you must make.
Good luck, Jim
I am always at J D Race.com if you need any install helo on your GM differentials and here to when I get the time to visit and help.
Hey guys, well it sounds like I should be able to sweap out axles but that C-clip Eliminator kit should be done by a professional. Backlash sounds important and like you need measuring tools so I'll call my pro shop. But Jim makes a good point about my SS not really needing them. My dad said the same thing. So I'll prepare to change axles myself IF I break one with slicks, but I am pretty sure I will be fine. Not to mention I won't be doing 4500rpm launches. Just lil ole 3000-3500 ones with a fast clutch modulation. No big clutch dumps.
Do you guys think My U-joints will bust before my axles or anything could happen?
You will need a slide hammer type tool to pull the old wheel bearings out at the tip of each end of housings. A huge socket or other type tool to tap the new ones in. same with seals.
When you get ready to do this job, mention that here and more info will be available. OR look in your manual
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