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Hi guy, I posted this on our sister Camaro site but would like as much feedback as possible. You guessed it its the wife's 71 Camaro. See below

Hi, I got the engine in and running in my 71 SS. The cam is a Howard roller part number 113215-10 with 217/225 duration 495/500 lift and 110 degrees separation. It runs pretty good but still working out some of the new engine bugs but the carb is set, timing is 12 BTC and full manifold vacuum to the stock canister. Carb and dizzy are original minus the Pertronix ll.. Timing is rock solid at 1000 RPM in idle and the engine is very responsive after 1500. The engine is a fresh (less then 3 hours) 355 with 2 valve relief flat tops with Summit (Dart) 2.02 72cc heads with 165 runners. It should be in the 9.25 range for compression. Here is the problem it sounds pretty hot for the specs, actually a lot hotter then my original L79 in my 68 with the 222/222 and .447/447 flat tappet but that car is a stick. The Camaro is a TH350 and wants to or does stall even with the Rpm set at 1000 at idle. The cam is stock advance and was degreed by my machinist. Vacuum is steady but around 12-14 psig which is also lower then my L79 cam. This cam per Howard is supposed to be OK for stock converter with a range 1300-5500rpm. Thoughts, anyone running this cam or something similar? Thanks
 

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That's what I was thinking too. Just waiting for you to come around. I don't think I would install a new converter on a trans that may be on its way out. Some of the symptoms you posted earlier don't sound too promising to trans longevity. If you smoke that trans, you'll have to get another new converter. I wouldn't run a used converter on a new trans.

Back in the day, I saw the same symptoms you are showing on the cars of a few pals. They would install the nastiest cam in their stock motors and stall out when the put the car in drive.
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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I was doing the 2 Footed Shuffle when I had the 226/226 108 LSA cam in a 454 with a 2000-2200 Hughes Street Rod conv. and I thought was mild a mild cam, tuning helped but only until I changed conv to a 3,200 was it Fixed, IMHO a good brand 3,000 stall conv will make your wife and you happy and a Good 3,000 stall conv will drive like a stock conv, you wont notice the difference till you hit the Go pedal, The Hughes and Freakshow convertors are the only 2 perf. conv. I've used since the late 80's though so I really can't rec a brand but maybe someone using a 2,500-2,800 conv with an engine similar to yours will chime in (y) :) I am very happy with the Freakshow conv and you can't beat the Bang for Buck
 

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Hi guy, I posted this on our sister Camaro site but would like as much feedback as possible. You guessed it its the wife's 71 Camaro. See below

Hi, I got the engine in and running in my 71 SS. The cam is a Howard roller part number 113215-10 with 217/225 duration 495/500 lift and 110 degrees separation. It runs pretty good but still working out some of the new engine bugs but the carb is set, timing is 12 BTC and full manifold vacuum to the stock canister. Carb and dizzy are original minus the Pertronix ll.. Timing is rock solid at 1000 RPM in idle and the engine is very responsive after 1500. The engine is a fresh (less then 3 hours) 355 with 2 valve relief flat tops with Summit (Dart) 2.02 72cc heads with 165 runners. It should be in the 9.25 range for compression. Here is the problem it sounds pretty hot for the specs, actually a lot hotter then my original L79 in my 68 with the 222/222 and .447/447 flat tappet but that car is a stick. The Camaro is a TH350 and wants to or does stall even with the Rpm set at 1000 at idle. The cam is stock advance and was degreed by my machinist. Vacuum is steady but around 12-14 psig which is also lower then my L79 cam. This cam per Howard is supposed to be OK for stock converter with a range 1300-5500rpm. Thoughts, anyone running this cam or something similar? Thanks
how much of a rpm drop when you put in gear? maybe see how much the timing changes if any. Try timing it in gear. just for my reference,is the L-79 cam @114 LSA? Quiet surprised, seems like a mild grind.
 

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How low will it idle when in park? I know you have it at 1000, but how low can you actually get it to idle when in park?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's what I was thinking too. Just waiting for you to come around. I don't think I would install a new converter on a trans that may be on its way out. Some of the symptoms you posted earlier don't sound too promising to trans longevity. If you smoke that trans, you'll have to get another new converter. I wouldn't run a used converter on a new trans.

Back in the day, I saw the same symptoms you are showing on the cars of a few pals. They would install the nastiest cam in their stock motors and stall out when the put the car in drive.
Al the fluid is pink not to mention this is a number matching drivetrain with only 70k original. I don't think the tranny is bad but I have no idea about the converter. Like you I am a stick guy and could care less if my idle is at 1200. However, I didn't guess on this cam I asked the manufacturer if it would work first with my total engine package. If you go out to Howard and type in my specs they will come back via email with this cam. Also I thought roller cams duration for duration were friendlier then flat tappets. If you look up that cam it says good for stock converter. Man I really don't wanna take this Camaro apart again. Positive note, you can tell this street engine is gonna have some nuts for sure.
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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Maybe add a little more timing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Maybe add a little more timing?
This engine isn't sensitive to timing. Not sure why. It is a very smooth running engine above 1200 with the roller cam and rockers plus it is fully balance and some things were kinda blueprinted. I think it's gonna be a real decent performer, just idle is weak or the tranny is using more power then it should but give it a little gas and the tires spin away no problem. I do remember my L79 took some time to break in and built some good compression and then my vacuum psi improved. After 500 miles she ran sweet. Same machinist, same basic overhaul parts.
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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But with a high idle isn't it kind of jerking into gear? have you tried more timing and idle it down some?
 

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This engine isn't sensitive to timing. Not sure why. It is a very smooth running engine above 1200 with the roller cam and rockers plus it is fully balance and some things were kinda blueprinted. I think it's gonna be a real decent performer, just idle is weak or the tranny is using more power then it should but give it a little gas and the tires spin away no problem. I do remember my L79 took some time to break in and built some good compression and then my vacuum psi improved. After 500 miles she ran sweet. Same machinist, same basic overhaul parts.
drive it
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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Bill I really do think you need a perf conv, I wonder if this would get more views and responses in the Perf section?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Bill I really do think you need a perf conv, I wonder if this would get more views and responses in the Perf section?
Rick I will talk with Howard tomorrow but yes I am kicking myself in the ass for not buying that 2k Hughes....Fall is beautiful time of the year up here. I have a nice guest room and plenty of beer. :)
 

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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I don't remember the guys name at Howards when I called about a cam but he seemed to know his SH..tuff ;) I'd love to help and even have an 800 lb trans jack but been pretty busy with things around here, Also when I switched from an RV 6 bolt RV conv. to the Street Rod it was NO different
 

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You can try to overcome this until you get a new converter by cranking up the timing into the 20s, and limiting your advance with a stop bushing and you can get even more crafty with an adjustable vacuum can.

This is what I did when I had a big cam and lame converter. I didnt know back then how important a converter was. This was my lesson learned.

Or like Dutch suggested, you should get the converter and transmission at the same time. Dont be afraid to get a higher stall converter as long as its a good quality one. I have a Yank 3600 and it hardly drives any different than stock. The major difference is the looseness at idle. On a stock converter you let off the gas and the car will move. With this converter not so much. You let off the gas and it just sits or barely creeps.

With a lumpy cam, a higher stall converter you will want lower gears in the rear. Not sure what your ratio is.
 

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I would check your advance in gear. I ran a low compression 406 with a 230/230 Ccom cams 280 magnum hydraulic flat tappet cam and a stock converter with stock gears. Idled 1000 in neutral. Car was so docile my mother drove it to work a few times. HOWEVER, duration does not tell the whole story, LSA and how the lobes are placed as well as cam intensity can make a small duration cam more radical then it seems. Eventually I tried a B&M holeshot converter to see if I could make it run quicker.
 

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I have ran bone stock 1100-1200 rpm stall converters with way healthier cams than what you have.
[email protected] .050 110 lsa. 350" never had one stall like you stated ever.

I assume when you say stall you mean the engine dies.

I have seen where the boosters are dribbling just a little fuel at idle due to too high of a float or too much fuel pressure.
At 850 or more rpm it would idle fine.
Get it lower and if was flooding the engine and it would die.

You mentioned 12 initial timing and vacuum hooked to full manifold.

Now is that 12 with vacuum.
I like to have 18 minimum timing at idle and many times 22-24 at idle is where my 350's like to be.

I wonder if manifold vacuum is dropping out when you put it in gear.

I would pull the vacuum off and then plug it and dial in 18 initial and see if it still dies.

That is after I made sure the boosters were not dribbling fuel.
 

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Rick I will talk with Howard tomorrow but yes I am kicking myself in the ass for not buying that 2k Hughes....Fall is beautiful time of the year up here. I have a nice guest room and plenty of beer. :)
Bill - If you need to borrow a transmission jack let me know - I have a 1200lb low profile Sunex one that ranges from 6” to 31”.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You can try to overcome this until you get a new converter by cranking up the timing into the 20s, and limiting your advance with a stop bushing and you can get even more crafty with an adjustable vacuum can.

This is what I did when I had a big cam and lame converter. I didnt know back then how important a converter was. This was my lesson learned.

Or like Dutch suggested, you should get the converter and transmission at the same time. Dont be afraid to get a higher stall converter as long as its a good quality one. I have a Yank 3600 and it hardly drives any different than stock. The major difference is the looseness at idle. On a stock converter you let off the gas and the car will move. With this converter not so much. You let off the gas and it just sits or barely creeps.

With a lumpy cam, a higher stall converter you will want lower gears in the rear. Not sure what your ratio is.
8.5" 10 bolt with 308's. Remember this is Momma's car. Converter is no issue except I am tired of working on the car to be honest. Still have the power windows to finish and paint. Interior is done and i see light but not enough yet...I am one of the stupid ones that insists on doing everything himself.
 
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