[JC396]

Good Morning.

I originally used the Comp Cam lube that came with my cam kit when I installed my cam this past Thursday during engine assembly. Went back to work on the engine yesterday only to find that the lube had melted off...it's been close to 100 degress here for about 4 days straight. Found some Crane Cam Moly lube and painstakingly painted it on all the lobes last night (cam in block-timing cover on). Adjusted the valves this morning (turned the engine 360 degrees twice) and now all the moly lube bunched up on the foot of the lifters...pretty much cleaned it off the lobes. What the hell?

I really am not a fan of goobs of this stuff in the oil during run in. Will it clog the filter? Should I attempt to paint it on once again?

Seems to me it will just wipe off agin when the engine turns several revolutions to fire off.

Any opinios?

Confused-Jim

 

[dauber65]

I've had the same thoughts during my first rebuild this month. I decided just to make sure I've got good break in oil and suppliment on my first run. I decided to get the GM brand of "Engine Oil Supliment" (EOS). I agree that the cam lube will be gone very shortly, but the oil should be there to replace it nearly instantly. The GM EOS is very thick. Hopefully that will do a good job of holding onto the lobes while the oil is being flung around. I'm a rookie though. I'll be interested to hear others.

 

[nakamura_racing_sports]

GM EOS works. Hard to find it now though. I also used the red line assy lube, but if you leave it for a while, it dries up. I think you'll be ok. Break it in with the Valvoline Race oil or something with a good amount of zinc. I haven't had any cam problems and have used many different assy lubes. The napa one is also good, I think it's red in color. Won't use the redline stuff anymore though. And if you can get EOS, that would be my first choice.

 

[rustbucket79]

Think of it this way, what is going to win, grease painted on or the lifter acting as a scraper with say 300+ PSI? (it will be considerably higher than this) There will be residual moly lube in the pores of the cam and lifter faces, but what you see is a fact of life. Use a bottle of EOS and good break in oil like Gibbs BR and you should be in good shape.

 

[rustbucket79]

A must use tool on any performance Chevy flat tappet engine, check out lifter bore grooving tool on this link.

http://www.comp.com/technical/Catalogs/106-07/330-343.pdf

 

[SWHEATON]

GM EOS is not hard to find at all,gm re-introduced it in 1/2008 ,any gm dealer can get it or buy it cheaper from gm parts direct online. Crane's suplerlube breakin concentrate is also just as good to use in the oil for flat tappet cam/lifter breakin,its avail from summit/jegs/crane.

BTW,the red/thin & watery comp cam lube ALWAYS run off the cam lobes in a few days-wk,just faster in hot weather.

The best cam assembly lube is crane's grey moly paste that sticks on the cam/lifters unitll the motor is fired.

FYI,i had brad penn's racing 20-50 oil tested 2x and it had low zddp lvl's (approx 800-850ppm) both times but it was supposed to be much higher so who knows what zddp lvl the penn breakin oil has. I would not trust ithe pennbreakin lube unless you have it tested to ensure in has plenty of zddp for safe cam/lifter breakin.

But I did have chevron newer CJ delo 15w-40 and shell roteall 30wt and they both had approx 1300-1350ppm Zn along with good P lvl too so use either of those along with gm eos or crane superlube for flat tappet cam/lifter breakin and you will be fine.

Stay away from the newer CJ shell rotella 15w-40 for flat tappet cam protection because it tested below the min 1200ppm Zn required for safe hi perf flat tappet cam protection but the older gen CI rotella 15w-40 is ok.

Lastly,what generally clogs the filter is using too much of the moly cam/lifter assembly lube when it comes to cam/lifter breakin.

Scott

 

[nakamura_racing_sports]

Didn't know that the NEW EOS is the same thing. Figured the EPA got it's hands on it and made a change somewhere. So how much is the going rate for a case now days on that stuff? The last case I bought was just over $100 for 12 bottles.

 

[SWHEATON]

GM list on the new eos is approx $20 a pint but you can get it online from gm parts direct for approx $12 a pint + S&H which is still cheaper then from the dealer.

Also,i had the new 1/08 version of gm eos tested and it still had the same high lvl of Zn & P the older gen eos had which i found surprising but it's fact as the lab test showed it was the case.

Scott

 

[Guest]

That's ridiculous!!

Anyway, when did Isky switch their "Rev-Lube" from moly lube paste to the red snot crap??

pdq67

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[SWHEATON]

Hi Paul,yeh the eos isnt cheap but thankfully we dont have to use it often mostly just for flat tappet cam /lifter breakin so once in a while wont kill the wallet. The crane superlubre is a littl sheaper and when i had it tested it had just as much or more Zn & P then the EOS had.

On the ISKY lube i wasnt aware they went to the red lube like the comp stuff,YAK!!!!!!!

The crane grey moly paste is the best cam assembly lube IMHO but to each their won.

Scott

 

[nakamura_racing_sports]

Scott,

Isn't that weird? GM had to pull it from the shelves, now renames it(probably) and charges more than twice as much as before? If it's the same crap, then what's up with the cost? I think it may be cheaper for me to buy from the dealer because if I have to get it shipped in, they'll probably charge hazmat to hawaii. Thanks for the info.

 

[Guest]

GEEZ!!

HAZMAT!!

Never thought about that!!

pdq67

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[SWHEATON]

Maybe they have to ship the gm eos as HAZMAT to Hawaii but i dont think the shipped the gm eos i bought from gm parts direct as HAZMAT,the box had no such type labeling on it when i recieved it.

Scott

 

[Chris R]

GM list on the new eos is approx $20 a pint but you can get it online from gm parts direct for approx $12 a pint + S&H which is still cheaper then from the dealer.

Also,i had the new 1/08 version of gm eos tested and it still had the same high lvl of Zn & P the older gen eos had which i found surprising but it's fact as the lab test showed it was the case.

Scott

I was wondering about that for a while now.

 

[Guest]

I should buy a tub of Isky's real moly paste "REV-LUBE" before it goes away..

pdq67

Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

[Importtech]

The last 3 cams I have bought were Howards and they come with ARP grease... I assume this the the same grey moly paste... worked just fine for me..