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i ran new 3/8" aluminum line from my tank to the front of the car.
my plan was to flare the end of the line add a fitting and hard mount it to the pump. but i am now worried about the tq of the motor lifting the engine and giving possible problems because there is no flex in the line.

so i was thinking of flaring the end, and adding a nipple on the end of the fuel pump and using about 2-3: of rubber fuel line like the factory did it, that way when the engine torques it wont give any issues.

is this a good idea, or would hard mounting it be fine but leaving a little extra for cusion.

if it matters.... motor is a SB, fuel pump is a 130gph holley, and from the pump to carb is all -06 an fittings and braided line.


thanks.


aaron
 

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Glad to see you're going the mechanical way. I see a lot of folks running expensive electric setups when they don't need to. I ran 1/2 aluminum line, -8 AN under the hood, and a 130GPH six-valve mechanical pump to feed my 540 (made 775HP on the dyno, 698 lbs of torque) and I ran a stock tank too. Combo worked perfectly. Just make sure there are no hard 90 degee bends. Use radius AN fittings, like Earl's or Aeroquip.
 

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another option that i'm surprised no one is using is the plastic fuel line that the oems have been using for almost 20 years now. it is cheap, easy to work with, and will hold up to a lot of pressure and a decent amount of heat.
if it's good enough for the oems to use it on the pressure side of efi setups that can have upwards of 50psi, then it's good enough for the suction side of an old car with a mechanical fuel pump.
 

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Must have a flex conection, the aluminum needs to be secured to the frame just before going to flex or the aluminum itself will flex and strain harden, become brittle and crack in time. As for flaring this is different than is done on copper or steel tube.
Copper the part that clamps to the tube is serated on the inside, this would be a no no on aluminu
Steel also may use the serated and the proper toll does what is caled a "double flare" as steel will crack if formed to a full flare like copper.
Aluminum you put an AN aluminum flare nut on and a ferrell (blue aluminum piece), then the part that clamps to the tube is smooth bore, flare is smaller than the one on brass, this will conect to an AN double ended male piece, sorry I can recall its name, which will conect to AN hose.
I would not trust hose pushed onto tube without an expansion ferrell of some kind!
 
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