[71Avido]

Hi guys, I'm nearly ready to primer the velle and so far ive been using Shopline Epoxy.
The problem now is that I went to my local supply house and asked what they needed to get for a gallon of black epoxy, $132+tax is what they came back with.
That seems a wee bit expensive so ive been trying to find a supplier online without luck.
Does anyone have a source for Shopline Epoxy online somewhere?

 

[crazy canuck]

Man you are gonna be in for a rude awakening if you think $132 is expensive for bottom shelf epoxy.High end products can be double that for a gallon of primer.If you use high end products all the way through your project,you can easily spend $1500-$2000,thats just for primers ,base coat(easily $400-$500 depending on color)clear.

 

[65turbowagon]

Thats not a bad price for Shopline primer and catalyst. Keep your money local!

 

[andyo]

i believe that summit racing has the shopline paint with the summit label. i got in gallons primer paint clear and 3 quarts of catalist for $242 shipped. going to try this paint on my winter beater and see how it holds up.

 

[Ken K]

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com

 

[67ss]

Local, the epoxy here is close too $300 a gallon!

 

[Ken K]

$83.50 plus shipping. That's 2 gallons sprayable.

 

[Raven1]

$83.50 plus shipping. That's 2 gallons sprayable.

Is that for Kirker? Of course you can buy bottom of the barrel paint cheaply. I had a customer insist on using Kirker because he was convinced all products were the same and he was saving money. I told him he was making a mistake and wasting his money. The job was being billed by the hour. Well, after materials ran out and I had to use my quality primers he admitted I was right. At his insistance and his money I used his Kirker epoxy and 2k primer and it was garbage. Put that stuff on a low end job.
Ask someone who has over 20 years experience in the business and hundreds or thousands of cars under their belt. People who do one or two cars in their lifetime have no idea what they are missing by using a quality paint product. I'm in the business and have to keep up with changing procedures and technologies. Unfortunately the inexperienced are sometimes getting knowledge from others who have as little experience as they do. Nor do they do enough jobs to try different products to make a performance comparison. There are less expensive primers that perform well but certainly not all of them. Heresay can waste a lot of time and money.

 

[vic2tric]

I’ve been using SPI epoxy, 2K High Build, sealer and clear. Good stuff very easy to work with and affordable. I called SPI and they hooked me up with the local dealer who ships to my house from about 70 miles away. I get it the next day and they have been a big help. Look up SPI they have a price list on their site and that is what the dealers or at least mine sells it for.

 

[vic2tric]

Oh and the 2K primer you can sand after just a few hours and it doesn’t ball up on the paper. Sands well. The clear is hard to beat almost almost fool proof and believe me I’m a fool.

 

[SCOTTS66]

SPI said that I can buy right from them without shipping cost because there is no local supplier here.Check out their website,it has a price list.

 

[normie]

I've been using the following two places to buy primer and paint online with much success.

http://www.autobodysupply.net/

http://www.tcpglobal.com/

Never had an issue with autobodysupply, with TCPglobal I had one gallon of primer come in dented to hell, just had to buy a new can and transfer it. Their customer service email stinks, but I believe if you call you'll get a result.

 

[71Avido]

I was really liking the idea of using SPI products on the car because everything I hear about them is good.
My concern is about mixing paints, everything I have read or heard has told me to stick with one manufacturer to avoid issues.
Having covered my car already with a 2 coats of Shopline epoxy, would going to SPI screw things up?

 

[Ken K]

Is that for Kirker? Of course you can buy bottom of the barrel paint cheaply. I had a customer insist on using Kirker because he was convinced all products were the same and he was saving money. I told him he was making a mistake and wasting his money. The job was being billed by the hour. Well, after materials ran out and I had to use my quality primers he admitted I was right. At his insistance and his money I used his Kirker epoxy and 2k primer and it was garbage. Put that stuff on a low end job.
Ask someone who has over 20 years experience in the business and hundreds or thousands of cars under their belt. People who do one or two cars in their lifetime have no idea what they are missing by using a quality paint product. I'm in the business and have to keep up with changing procedures and technologies. Unfortunately the inexperienced are sometimes getting knowledge from others who have as little experience as they do. Nor do they do enough jobs to try different products to make a performance comparison. There are less expensive primers that perform well but certainly not all of them. Heresay can waste a lot of time and money.

Really? Do you have any pictures? I have used it, it works. Garbage in what way? You can go right to the virtual car show and see the cars that were painted with it.

 

[Raven1]

Really? Do you have any pictures? I have used it, it works. Garbage in what way? You can go right to the virtual car show and see the cars that were painted with it.

Let's just pick two products for comparison, and they are not even high end. Transtar and PPG ( we'll pick K-36 or 8 and NCP but others can be used as well). Kirker does not even come close to the ease of sandability or those two. Pictures don't show squat. If Kirker was the best on the market then why are shops, collision and resto, using PPG, Sikkens and similar products? I can't be screwing around with low end products when I'm painting a nice car or doing countless hours of airbrushing on a customer's 75K bike. I can't afford the time or money. The question was asked if low end products work. Yes, but not nearly to the same degree as a quality product. There is a huge difference between a backyarder doing one car he is solely responsible for and someone who needs dependability, performance, and consistency when making a living. Or wanting a product that is easy to use; like not balling up in the paper, which results in more time and money.

 

[Ken K]

Obviously if he had the money he would not be trying to paint the car himself. Not everyone has 75K for a bike. Not all cars are show cars that live in a garage. That high end paint can go to hell just like the cheap stuff when it is out in the sun all the time.

 

[Raven1]

I was really liking the idea of using SPI products on the car because everything I hear about them is good.
My concern is about mixing paints, everything I have read or heard has told me to stick with one manufacturer to avoid issues.
Having covered my car already with a 2 coats of Shopline epoxy, would going to SPI screw things up?

No. The concern of failure is mixing two different brand's components. HOK hardener in PPG clear for instance. Successive undercoats and topcoats of different manufactures can be "stacked". I often send parts to a shop with HOK intercoat clear and they booth it and spray the clear of their choice on it. Companies will not back you up if you use another's reducer in their product, But it can be done, and is. Such as a urethane grade reducer. Hardeners are a no-no; they have different cross-linking properties. But if you are not a registered shop they won't back you anyway. Unless you've been buying from them many years and know the rep. To further put you mind at ease, putting anothers BC/CC over your primer will not give you grief either. Just follow the tech data and procedures for all products which is available onilne in PDF for all manufacturers. Have fun!!