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Hi everyone I'm buying a 71 chevelle my all time fav. I need so info quick by tomorrow. First how can I tell if it's a real S/S it's got the stripes and badging but that can be done pretty easy, how can you tell if the frame is twisted or any thing wrong with, the engine is a 350 sbc out of a 73 Impala good motor? it has corvette rallys, mint int, little rust not major please any more useful info would be great e-mail me I will check it before I buy it I what it so bad I just can't wait any longer thanks in advance Rob.
 

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Rob
Go here www.chevelles.com/shop/ss_ident.html print it out and take it with you. The only sure way to determine if it is "real" is to see a copy of the build sheet. Good Luck.



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Rick (Abilene Texas)
72 El Camino
TPI 350/700r4
Aces #00140
TEAM CHEVELLE #00038


[This message has been edited by rick (edited 10-13-99).]

[This message has been edited by rick (edited 10-13-99).]
 

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Quick check; look at the speedometer. If it has a sweep style speedo with idiot lights, it's not a true SS. If the dash has round guages, then it's a good possibility it is an SS. Park it on level ground. Does it sit evenly or sag to one side? Even if it sags, it doesn't necessarily mean the frame is tweaked, the coil springs could be fatigued. Remember, this car is almost thirty years old. Take a friend along and have him follow you when you take it for a test drive. Have him pay close attention to the front and rear wheel tracking. The rear wheels should be following the same path as the front wheels while the car is traveling on a straight, level road. If the rear wheels dogtrack, that is, they seem to be following a path off to one side of the front wheel track, then there could be frame damage. In extreme cases a car may actually appear to be going down the road sideways when viewed from the rear. Of course, one of the tires could be low, or it may have two or three different size tires mounted on the vehicle. This will also cause a dogtrack.
The 73 motor is OK, but it won't be a numbers matching engine. Understand that going in. If all the brackets and accessories are accounted for, then you should be alright. The Impala engine won't be as strong as the original engine. Is is a low compression engine built with smog control in mind. The heads probably have the smallest valves produced for a 350. They won't flow a lot unless you have them reworked with larger valves. With that info, don't expect it to be a tire scorcher. But hey, the fun starts when you start building that special engine.
Other than that, check the body over for signs of bondo repairs. You can usually see bondo repairs if you look at the sheetmetal panels from different angles. Look for little swirl shaped scratches under the paint. Look for waviness in the sheetmetal. It's unreasonable to expect to find a thirty year old car that's never had body work. What you're looking for is the quality of the work. Also, if the owner tells you the car has never had body work and you find obvious signs of bondo, then I'd be a little leery of anything else he has to say. Look in the trunk, and look at at the backside of every sheetmetal panel you can get to. Crawl in it, under it and around it. Try to poke through the floor and trunk pans with a screwdriver. Gently of course, you don't want to *****off the owner. It's still his car.
Last, even if you do find some flaws, don't be put off. If you think the car's condition was overstated, make him a reasonable, fair offer. DON'T, I said DON'T stand there and nitpick his car. What I mean is, don't stand there and give him a laundry list of everything you think is wrong with the car. Just keep everything to yourself and make an offer based on what you found on the inspection. Most people, myself included, hate it when someone starts in on everything that's wrong with a car and how much money it will take to fix it. I can't emphasize enough, just keep your comments to yourself and limit your conversation to the negotiation of the price, or as I like to say, the business transaction. Some people consider it an insult when you start nitpicking the car's faults. And most of the time, they'll ask you to leave their property.
Good luck and happy hunting.
 

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Lotsa good info here. Only thing I can add is spend more time looking over the car now (trunk is usually the last thing to be restored/repaired, so start there). Rust is biggest problem. Mechanicals can usually be easily replaced, but metal work $$. I usually discount pretty paint (especially red - they call it resale red for a reason), and wheels when I look a car over.
Good luck and post how it turns out.

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DG
Springfield, Ohio
70 Chevelle Malibu

www.wright.edu/~adams.6/chevy.htm
TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
Genx member (Founder 4 Ohio)
 

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Like said by rick the only sure way to tell is to have a build sheet. Some other ways to get a good idea if it is or not is if it has a rear sway bar. Also like said it should have round instruments also there should be SS emblems on the steering wheel, door panels, fenders, grill and rear bumper. If you want lick to see the build sheet from my 71SS. www.angelfire.com/co2/Chevelle/images/TheBuildSheet.jpg . If it is and SS it should have the Z15 SS group option listed.

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JT
71 SS Vortec 355
www.angelfire.com/co/KellyMotorsports



[This message has been edited by L6571SS (edited 10-14-99).]
 

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one other thing about the frame when looking how the car sits. It won't sit right if the tires are all mixed like some 15's and a 14 inch. Trust me I had 3 15's and a 14 on my car so it could roll and it sat soo sadly i got one of the 15's fized and put it on and then it sat great again.

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OWNER OF 66 CHEVELLE MALIBU

Check out page dedicated to resto of my chevelle. still being made.
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/9801/


Canadian Classics Chevelles and Beaumonts #393
 

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build sheet! tells the story, but sometimes hard to find, what's the matter with red dg? mine is red it's called flame red, if you like it buy it, unless your looking for a true ss then it's a little more reserch.
 

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pro454chev,
I like red, and most people painting a car to sell know most every body does too. But since paint is the last thing I ever get to (check my web page) I try not to get distracted by a paint job.

Couple of weeks ago I watched a pair of Chevelles (68 and a 69) stage and match up all evening long at the local test and tune. I don't know why but I seemed to always root for the red one. I mean the red does look cool under the lights at the dragway.
DG

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DG
Springfield, Ohio
70 Chevelle Malibu

www.wright.edu/~adams.6/chevy.htm
TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
Genx member (Founder 4 Ohio)



[This message has been edited by DG (edited 10-14-99).]
 
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