Team Chevelle banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JULY's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im looking to build a good handling 67 chevelle for daily driving. Something that will handle like a new camaro and similar to a corvette.

What I have to work with is the following:

1. 2" drop spindles from CPP
2. Stock upper and lower control arms with new ball joints
3. Manual steering box.
4. Stock center link and tie rods.
5. Boxed rear lower control arms
6. Adjustable upper control arms from UMI
7. Reinforcing braces for rear control arms
8. Rear sway bar
9. BMR rear anti roll bar

I want to lower the car like 2" to 3" in the rear and lower the front about 4" with lowering springs and drop spindles. I want to get like 5* of positive caster.

I want to run ralley wheels on the front and rear. Something like 15 x 7's on the front and 15 x 8's on the rear. Tires will be something like a 235 60 on the front and 255 60's on the rear.

What do I have to work with and what will I need to purchase?

Im thinking front upper control arms and off set shafts and use what I have to do the rest with the exception of buying a camaro steering box and a 1 1/4" front sway bar.

Thanks for all the recommends in advance.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Im looking to build a good handling 67 chevelle for daily driving. Something that will handle like a new camaro and similar to a corvette.

What I have to work with is the following:

1. 2" drop spindles from CPP
2. Stock upper and lower control arms with new ball joints
3. Manual steering box.
4. Stock center link and tie rods.
5. Boxed rear lower control arms
6. Adjustable upper control arms from UMI
7. Reinforcing braces for rear control arms
8. Rear sway bar
9. BMR rear anti roll bar

I want to lower the car like 2" to 3" in the rear and lower the front about 4" with lowering springs and drop spindles. I want to get like 5* of positive caster.

I want to run ralley wheels on the front and rear. Something like 15 x 7's on the front and 15 x 8's on the rear. Tires will be something like a 235 60 on the front and 255 60's on the rear.

What do I have to work with and what will I need to purchase?

Im thinking front upper control arms and off set shafts and use what I have to do the rest with the exception of buying a camaro steering box and a 1 1/4" front sway bar.

Thanks for all the recommends in advance.
First thing that comes to mind is you don't mention shocks and springs. This is sometimes the most important upgrade on a build when you are trying to achieve "good handling". This is where the old saying You get what you pay for comes into play.

Next is the front geometry...The factory set-up is lacking caster. Most after market companies like ours move the ball joint back to gain approx. 5 deg. of caster.

If your looking to improve handling taller ball joints in the upper a-arms will give you camber gains...essentially more tire contact patch when cornering by holding the tire flatter to the ground when cornering.

A lot of guys here will attest to what a set of geometry corrected upper a-arm with taller ball joints will bring to the table.

You mention 2" lowering spindles, are they tall/lowering spindles? The factory GM spindles work very well if you aren't upgrading to tall spindles and they are made of good old "US" material.

Craig
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,394 Posts
Im looking to build a good handling 67 chevelle for daily driving. Something that will handle like a new camaro and similar to a corvette.

What I have to work with is the following:

1. 2" drop spindles from CPP
2. Stock upper and lower control arms with new ball joints
3. Manual steering box.
4. Stock center link and tie rods.
5. Boxed rear lower control arms
6. Adjustable upper control arms from UMI
7. Reinforcing braces for rear control arms
8. Rear sway bar
9. BMR rear anti roll bar

I want to lower the car like 2" to 3" in the rear and lower the front about 4" with lowering springs and drop spindles. I want to get like 5* of positive caster.

I want to run ralley wheels on the front and rear. Something like 15 x 7's on the front and 15 x 8's on the rear. Tires will be something like a 235 60 on the front and 255 60's on the rear.

What do I have to work with and what will I need to purchase?

Im thinking front upper control arms and off set shafts and use what I have to do the rest with the exception of buying a camaro steering box and a 1 1/4" front sway bar.

Thanks for all the recommends in advance.

You might not like this but this is what it takes.

Ditch the drop spindles and put the stock ones back in.

Get some good springs on it with the correct height and a stiffer rate. Don't go too low and throw the geometry out of whack and end up scraping the car over every bump and driveway. An inch or two is plenty.

Good shocks valved to match your spring rate. Adjustable is nice, but not needed on a driver.

Aftermarket front tubular upper and lower arms to add caster. Go for at least 5 positive. 6-7 is even better.

Jeep grand Cherokee quick ratio PS box with hoses and pump to match. This will tremendously improve the steering feel.

You want a swaybar that bolts to the lower arms for handling, not the drag race anti roll bar. I don't know what the BMR is. 1 5/16 or so front and 1" rear is a good starting point.

The rear arms you have should be fine, be sure they are poly bushed or heim jointed.

Replace all the body mounts with poly.

Get rid of the rally wheels. There are no good street performance tires in 15" anymore. 17" is a good size. You can run enough sidewall to not bend the wheels on potholes. It looks good on the car and there are lots of retro looking options in this size. 66 and 67 will take a 17x9.5 wheel and 275/40/17 all around. Offset should be +6. If you wanted to be on the safe side go 255 front. You can go a bit larger in the rear too if you like. I like a square setup myself.

This will get the car driving on par with modern camaro mustang challenger. I've done all this to my car and it honestly handles as good as any of the modern musclecars.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
First thing that comes to mind is you don't mention shocks and springs. This is sometimes the most important upgrade on a build when you are trying to achieve "good handling". This is where the old saying You get what you pay for comes into play.

Next is the front geometry...The factory set-up is lacking caster. Most after market companies like ours move the ball joint back to gain approx. 5 deg. of caster.

If your looking to improve handling taller ball joints in the upper a-arms will give you camber gains...essentially more tire contact patch when cornering by holding the tire flatter to the ground when cornering.

A lot of guys here will attest to what a set of geometry corrected upper a-arm with taller ball joints will bring to the table.

You mention 2" lowering spindles, are they tall/lowering spindles? The factory GM spindles work very well if you aren't upgrading to tall spindles and they are made of good old "US" material.

Craig

Craig

I dont have any shocks and springs at the moment. The car was a bracket car, so those springs and shocks will not be used.

It would be best to go to both aftermarket A arms if my wallet will allow. What could I do if I cant purchase both?

The spindles are off G bodies as far as I know.

I have some factory spindles I could use, just wanted to get that rake and in the weeds look.....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You might not like this but this is what it takes.

Ditch the drop spindles and put the stock ones back in.

Get some good springs on it with the correct height and a stiffer rate. Don't go too low and throw the geometry out of whack and end up scraping the car over every bump and driveway. An inch or two is plenty.

Good shocks valved to match your spring rate. Adjustable is nice, but not needed on a driver.

Aftermarket front tubular upper and lower arms to add caster. Go for at least 5 positive. 6-7 is even better.

Jeep grand Cherokee quick ratio PS box with hoses and pump to match. This will tremendously improve the steering feel.

You want a swaybar that bolts to the lower arms for handling, not the drag race anti roll bar. I don't know what the BMR is. 1 5/16 or so front and 1" rear is a good starting point.

The rear arms you have should be fine, be sure they are poly bushed or heim jointed.

Replace all the body mounts with poly.

Get rid of the rally wheels. There are no good street performance tires in 15" anymore. 17" is a good size. You can run enough sidewall to not bend the wheels on potholes. It looks good on the car and there are lots of retro looking options in this size. 66 and 67 will take a 17x9.5 wheel and 275/40/17 all around. Offset should be +6. If you wanted to be on the safe side go 255 front. You can go a bit larger in the rear too if you like. I like a square setup myself.

This will get the car driving on par with modern camaro mustang challenger. I've done all this to my car and it honestly handles as good as any of the modern musclecars.

Tom

I liked all your advice except for the rallies... Got to have the rallies....

Also the drop of 2" I dont think will get the look that Im after....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,465 Posts
You can get 17" rally's that look identical to OE's. He's right, 15's won't get you the handling you say you are looking for.

Steve R
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
Craig

I dont have any shocks and springs at the moment. The car was a bracket car, so those springs and shocks will not be used.

It would be best to go to both aftermarket A arms if my wallet will allow. What could I do if I cant purchase both?

The spindles are off G bodies as far as I know.

I have some factory spindles I could use, just wanted to get that rake and in the weeds look.....
I def. wouldn't skimp on the shocks and springs!

The upper a-arm has the geometry change of added caster. Most all lowers have no geometry change,the biggest advantage to these are strength and of course looks.

If your factory lowers are in good shape and your on a budget you can rebush the lowers and re use

If your looking for the best handling set-up as far as the front components I would recommend an aftermarket upper a-arm with taller ball joints, Factory A-body spindles, lowering springs with a rate a bit higher than the factory rate for improved center of gravity (handling), shocks that are valved to handle the upgraded spring rate and a little bigger front sway bar to control body roll.

If you have any questions on anything feel free to give me a call and we can discuss in detail what would work best on a budget.

Craig
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,925 Posts
I'm of the same mind that if you keep the 15" wheels you may as well keep your money in your pocket rather than spending on the other items...you will be disappointed.
I wouldn't really agree with this as I run 15s. He can get a good handling daily driver, but it wont handle like a new Camaro or Corvette without 18s and good rubber, that is for certain.

All new bushings and a fast ratio power steering box would make the car feel night and day different. As UMI mentioned, tall ball joints for better geometry is highly recommended.

Having the car lowered is great, but I think with 4-5 inches in the front, and 2-3 in the back you'll be rubbing fenders and scraping your headers all the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,465 Posts
I wouldn't really agree with this as I run 15s. He can get a good handling daily driver, but it wont handle like a new Camaro or Corvette without 18s and good rubber, that is for certain.

All new bushings and a fast ratio power steering box would make the car feel night and day different. As UMI mentioned, tall ball joints for better geometry is highly recommended.

Having the car lowered is great, but I think with 4-5 inches in the front, and 2-3 in the back you'll be rubbing fenders and scraping your headers all the time.
There is a big difference between good handling and handling like a new Camaro or Corvette. I agree with you, you can get a big heavy car like a Chevelle to handle well with 15's.

Steve R
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,975 Posts
My point wasnt so much about the size...the difference in the rubber/construction of 15" tires available is night vs day compared to the now more common larger sizes, not to mention he will be paying premium prices for a clearly inferior product. Tire companies only continue to offer a 15" tire with zero updated R&D to gouge us relic's of the past.
 

·
Boldly procrastrinating
66 El Camino 57 Chevy pickup 2004 Tahoe
Joined
·
29,330 Posts
yeah, skip the Camaro box. It'll work mechanically but you'll need 3 acres to turn the car around. The Camaro has internal stops that keep it from working right in the Chevelle chassis. I usually use the Camaro box but tear it down and remove the internal stops, re-seal/rebuild it at the same time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I def. wouldn't skimp on the shocks and springs!

The upper a-arm has the geometry change of added caster. Most all lowers have no geometry change,the biggest advantage to these are strength and of course looks.

If your factory lowers are in good shape and your on a budget you can rebush the lowers and re use

If your looking for the best handling set-up as far as the front components I would recommend an aftermarket upper a-arm with taller ball joints, Factory A-body spindles, lowering springs with a rate a bit higher than the factory rate for improved center of gravity (handling), shocks that are valved to handle the upgraded spring rate and a little bigger front sway bar to control body roll.

If you have any questions on anything feel free to give me a call and we can discuss in detail what would work best on a budget.

Craig

Thanks Craig for your advice. Im a long ways from doing all this but will give you a call when Im ready.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all the replies so far.

Want to add a little more of what Im doing and what I have.

Im going from a drag racing set up to a daily driver set up.

I dont have to have the best handler out there, just something that is ALOT better than stock and close to newer muscle cars. Im guessing based on some of the comments I cant have my 15's and handling unless I convert to the larger tires and wheels. YES, I know the quality of performance of the 15's is very limited, but again, I will not be auto crossing this car. Just something that will keep up with modern traffic on the street without me having to be as concerned about the car on turns at the stop signs and etc. Just want some performance and a positive feeling about being in modern traffic and not notice must of difference whether Im in my daily driver (Impala 2003) or the 67.

I already have poly bushings through out the entire car. All bushings are poly including the body mounts.

I will be getting with Craig on some shocks and springs for all four corners. Let the rake fall where it may with UMI products.

Im in the process of learning more about the Jeep box and all the other small changes I will have to make to use that box.

Any other comments, please feel free to add to the thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,394 Posts
Tom

I liked all your advice except for the rallies... Got to have the rallies....

Also the drop of 2" I dont think will get the look that Im after....
Then just get 17" rally wheels. They are made of aluminum and will accept the factory rally wheel cap. You will never get the car to handle on par with newer cars on 15" tires.

As far as the lowering, excessively lowering the car will make it handle worse and you will drag it over everything. Keep in mind that the 1.5" or 2" is below factory height. Your car may well be sitting higher than factory height now.

This is my car with 1.5" springs and 275/40/17 all around. The top of the front tire is even withe fender opening and the rear is tucked in. I drive this daily 8 months a year over bad roads with potholes and dirt roads. It doesn't scrape and looks fine to me.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,541 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Then just get 17" rally wheels. They are made of aluminum and will accept the factory rally wheel cap. You will never get the car to handle on par with newer cars on 15" tires.

As far as the lowering, excessively lowering the car will make it handle worse and you will drag it over everything. Keep in mind that the 1.5" or 2" is below factory height. Your car may well be sitting higher than factory height now.

This is my car with 1.5" springs and 275/40/17 all around. The top of the front tire is even withe fender opening and the rear is tucked in. I drive this daily 8 months a year over bad roads with potholes and dirt roads. It doesn't scrape and looks fine to me.

Looking good there Tom.

I just dont like the larger wheels and tires. I feel they take away from the.

Im thinking I will let a good set up from UMI just let the rake and stance fall where it may.....while running the 15 inch wheels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,925 Posts
Thanks for all the replies so far.

Want to add a little more of what Im doing and what I have.

Im going from a drag racing set up to a daily driver set up.

I dont have to have the best handler out there, just something that is ALOT better than stock and close to newer muscle cars. Im guessing based on some of the comments I cant have my 15's and handling unless I convert to the larger tires and wheels. YES, I know the quality of performance of the 15's is very limited, but again, I will not be auto crossing this car. Just something that will keep up with modern traffic on the street without me having to be as concerned about the car on turns at the stop signs and etc. Just want some performance and a positive feeling about being in modern traffic and not notice must of difference whether Im in my daily driver (Impala 2003) or the 67.

I already have poly bushings through out the entire car. All bushings are poly including the body mounts.

I will be getting with Craig on some shocks and springs for all four corners. Let the rake fall where it may with UMI products.

Im in the process of learning more about the Jeep box and all the other small changes I will have to make to use that box.

Any other comments, please feel free to add to the thread.
0.94 (1.12 spike) lateral G with 235/60R15 and 295/50R15 M/T Sportsman S/T's

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,210 Posts
Definitely get the JGC quick ratio steering box. easy upgrade, inexpensive (<$100) and makes a world of difference. My '67 didn't handle all that well when I purchased it as it was set up to be low for looks and that's it. I started out with Bilstein shocks and UMI springs. No need for drop spindles to set up just the right stance. The stock spindles are great. I then added a Helwig rear bar and a Hotchkis 1 3/8" front bar. I had one of those bars that bolts between the rear LCA but didn't like it and switched to the Helwig. For control arms I added Currie upper and lowers along with the mounting point brace in the rear and SPC adjustable front upper and lower control arms. Car is tight and handles well without being an overly stiff ride. Wheels are 17x8" Torque Thrust II's with 4.75" backspacing.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top