[383ram]

I need some direction here. I need a budget priced set of rods for my 454--stock length. I need them to have reasonable quality to them and a decent bolt (preferably an ARP). I am really at a stage were this is a make or break it deal to get my engine back together. I hate to be a tightwad, but its either this or not see the truck run for the next couple of years---which is something I do not want to see. I am even considering having a stock set done over by a repuabtle shop if it saves more. Engine probably won't ever see more than 500hp in its lifetime and under 6k rpm.

So what do you think?

 

[BossHogg69]

Do you have the stock rods? For up to 500hp I would think if they checked out okay by a machine shop and you used ARP bolts in them, they would be fine. If not, maybe a set of 3/8" truck rods, aka thumb rods would work with ARP bolts and not break the bank.

 

[LevonH]

Glad to see your back.
Stock rods with good bolts should be fine.

 

[steelcomp]

Pretty hard to beat the Scat Pro Comp rod for under $300.00.

 

[creeper72]

I have been happy with Eagle SIR rods with ARP cap screws about $200.
Scat has a good rep for a budget rod.

 

[64play]

Only $200? That's gotta be the answer right there. Found that much in the bench seats of the old wagon when I took it apart.

 

[BossHogg69]

If I'm not mistaken the $200 is for the Small Block rods. I could be wrong.

these are scat stock replacements for around $250
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-310198922/

 

[383ram]

I was looking at the Scat's, just not sure what to do. The budget on the engine is basically spent and then some. I am in a corner right now having to fix a problem caused by someone else---which incidently is going to cost me more than if I bought a set of Scat rods in the first place---lessoned learned. Every penny is counting or I must seriously put the truck aside for at least the rest of the year and into next knowing what other yearly finances (taking care of my house/property) lay ahead that far out wiegh working on the truck.

 

[Steve439]

I'd email Mike Lewis (Wolfplace ID here) and just tell him exactly what your situation is.
Great prices and advice.

[email protected]

 

[TCSS1970]

I bought Scat forged rods either $239 or $249 with ARP bolts for a 454 stock length.

 

[69 Ratt Vette]

Stock, Scat or Eagle would all be fine.

 

[Ben Lurkin]

I was looking at the Scat's, just not sure what to do. The budget on the engine is basically spent and then some. I am in a corner right now having to fix a problem caused by someone else---which incidently is going to cost me more than if I bought a set of Scat rods in the first place---lessoned learned. Every penny is counting or I must seriously put the truck aside for at least the rest of the year and into next knowing what other yearly finances (taking care of my house/property) lay ahead that far out wiegh working on the truck.

In the engine section you posted you can't get the rods you currently have apart. If that's your only issue you aren't dead in the water. Some light taps with a brass hammer or a block of wood often does the trick. More info.

 

[rodent4]

Resize the factory guys and you should be fine

I wanted to use dot rods(which I have laying around)machinist talked me into Scats telling me it would work out cheaper in the long run...wrong ended up costing me around $850 for the Scats(needed resizing) and the factory guys would have only set me back around $350

good luck

 

[muncher]

I bought a set of thumb rods on ebay for $50 and added ARP bolts. Re-size and good to go for cheap.

 

[383ram]

In the engine section you posted you can't get the rods you currently have apart. If that's your only issue you aren't dead in the water. Some light taps with a brass hammer or a block of wood often does the trick. More info.

Sorry, a little fustrated with all of this. The issue is at the parting of the rod and cap. In that area it appears that it is "pinched together". If you take either end with a bearing on it and set it on the journal, you can clearly see that perpendicular to the parting surface that it won't sit on the journal, like its approx 1/8" off the journal. Thus torquing it down would cause it to spread and be tight.

There is enough movement in the rod assy where it'll actually spread and appear seated when tourqued, but if you seperate them and try each side individually, it is so obvious that its not going to work. Yet when torqued down you can achieve proper oil clearance via plastigauge because your measuring perpendicular to the parting line. The rod (well now two of them) are somehow too small on the sides (parting line area).

I had the main culprit rod off and put a bearing in it and torqued it down and to me, it seems to measure round. But there is obviously a problem with it not fitting the journal.

I went through yesterday and took the rods that were all assembled in the engine and see if i could get them to move side to side. All did but 1. I could turn the engine over , but to get that initial break away was tough--but it just seemed like a real tight street engine. When I took that second tight rod off, the thing spun over really nice. So there is obviously a problem here. With two out of 8 rods that seemed screwed up, how do you not start to question the other 6---even though they "seem" fine.

I bought these as redone stock rods and they certianly appeared that way, and had no reason not to believe that by there appearance---my machinest wasn't the one that redid them. But something is obviously not right with them. Of course having them checked before I put them in would have cost as much as a new set of rods, so I guess I took my chance and lost and am going to pay dearly for it. The kicker is everything was balanced to within a 1/4 gram, so you know no matter what, I am going to be in back balancing again---another added expense. Unless we can find a lighter rod, then just maybe I will be ok---but it still won't be as good as were we had it.

 

[Malibu ss 64]

I bought a set of Scat Pro stock I-beams from Mike Lewis think the stock replacements are around 20$ less and the Scat Pro comps are like 60-70$ more. I think the Pro stocks are worth the 20$ more then the stock replacements since they are a cap screw rod and would be excellent for you?

Contact Mike and see what he says.

Marcus

 

[Ben Lurkin]

Sorry, a little fustrated with all of this. The issue is at the parting of the rod and cap. In that area it appears that it is "pinched together". If you take either end with a bearing on it and set it on the journal, you can clearly see that perpendicular to the parting surface that it won't sit on the journal, like its approx 1/8" off the journal. Thus torquing it down would cause it to spread and be tight.

There is enough movement in the rod assy where it'll actually spread and appear seated when tourqued, but if you seperate them and try each side individually, it is so obvious that its not going to work. Yet when torqued down you can achieve proper oil clearance via plastigauge because your measuring perpendicular to the parting line. The rod (well now two of them) are somehow too small on the sides (parting line area).

I had the main culprit rod off and put a bearing in it and torqued it down and to me, it seems to measure round. But there is obviously a problem with it not fitting the journal.

I went through yesterday and took the rods that were all assembled in the engine and see if i could get them to move side to side. All did but 1. I could turn the engine over , but to get that initial break away was tough--but it just seemed like a real tight street engine. When I took that second tight rod off, the thing spun over really nice. So there is obviously a problem here. With two out of 8 rods that seemed screwed up, how do you not start to question the other 6---even though they "seem" fine.

I bought these as redone stock rods and they certianly appeared that way, and had no reason not to believe that by there appearance---my machinest wasn't the one that redid them. But something is obviously not right with them. Of course having them checked before I put them in would have cost as much as a new set of rods, so I guess I took my chance and lost and am going to pay dearly for it. The kicker is everything was balanced to within a 1/4 gram, so you know no matter what, I am going to be in back balancing again---another added expense. Unless we can find a lighter rod, then just maybe I will be ok---but it still won't be as good as were we had it.

If I'm understanding you correctly, the bearing will naturally stick out of the rod if you just set it on the rod. They require a little force to snap into place. They are designed to be an 'interference fit' once the caps are bolted together; that way they achieve the proper bearing 'crush' once they are torqued and won't spin inside the rod. So that part of your 'problem' doesn't sound like it really is one. This is easily checked by assembling the rods and measuring the inside diameter with a dial indicator. Your machinist will have one.

With regards to the other two rods, it could be possible that they were reconditioned with the wrong cap in place. Again, this is something requiring a dial indicator to determine. Another way you might check is to mic the big end width on eigher side of the parting line and then across the parting line. I'm sitting in an airport, but if memory serves this width should be ~0.990" and you should have 0.02" clearance between rods on a common journal (CHECK THIS), but you should get the same measurment regardless.

 

[FRYNTYR]

You should be able to get a set of Thumb rods with ARP's for around $150, then whatever shipping is. The USPS flat rate boxes are the way to go to ship something like that. I'd trust those long before a set of el-cheapo rods that may not be round or stay round.