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Look at a head gasket, you might discover that there would be basically zero flow there anyway.

There's pretty much no heat there... the hottest place in the head, BY FAR, is #2. About 40% of the total water flow needs to go there. About 20% each needs to go through the holes in the corners next to those exhaust ports. The remaining 20% can get split up among the entire rest of the passages. Newer head gaskets usually have 3 large holes at 2, 1 large hole at each of the places I just mentioned, and very small holes at all of the other places.

In fact, if #2 obstructs any of the 3 holes in your gaskets, you should enlarge it. But don't worry about 4, 5, & 6. They don't really do anything except "leak" water from the cold side of the system to the hot side, bypassing the place where heat flows into the system (exh ports), and maybe bleed off air & steam bubbles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know what you're saying about the water passages. I'm having cooling trouble with these heads and have been for awhile. See this post http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205025

I have a unusual over heating problem. Runs cool at idle, hot cruising. Pull the thermostat and it won't get over 160 degrees. Put a 180 thermostat back in it and it won't keep a low temp at cruise.
This problem just started. Been running fine for a year or so. I have a Griffen aluminum radiator and Edelbrock high flow water pump that was freshly overhauled by Edelbrock a year ago. I have been running a "regular" thermostat for a year. I replaced it with a regular t-stat and now it's doing the same thing. I just ordered a high flow Stewarts Components modified Robert Shaw t-stat to try in it.
What I don't get is it has been fine with a regular t-stat, why would it all of sudden need a high flow stat? Could the water pump impeller be spinning on the shaft or something? How and where do you plum in to check water pressure output of the pump, What would be the procedure? It's a SBC long water pump. One heater hose comes off the intake and the other goes to the pump.


Edit: Forgot to mention my temp gauge jumps all over the place like what happens when the water is low in radiator. It'll jump to 240 degrees and then come back down. Doesn't do any of that without a thermostat.
^^^Forgot to add here that I changed the heads from Edelbrock RPM to Brodix IK.

I've talked with brodix about the heads and they had me enlarge holes 1 & 3 to 7/16" in the gasket. (Felpro 1003) The middle hole is already big. It still does it. Guess the only thing left is to drill and tap the intake for bypass hoses.
 

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I don't know why it would suddenly seem to need a different thermostat. That doesn't make alot of sense, unless something has failed in the meantime, such as the pump. Not impossible.

But as far as pump pressure... you could measure that at basically any cooling system plug between the pump and the stat; the hot side heater hose fitting (in the intake, not the one in the pump), plugs in the heads themselves, etc. A gauge that would measure fuel pressure would do. Or, you could use a marine one, such as outboard motors sometimes have.
 

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Ray,

Are you running a heater in your car? I had problems like this with my El Camino when I first installed the 383. I had the heater ports plugged because I was running no heater. Some one suggested to me to run a hose from the water pump to the intake manifold which would simulate the heater core path of flow. It cured my weird temp readings on my gauge.

Your answer from Brodix puzzles me? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Chris,

Yes, I'm running a heater and it's hooked up.

I don't know what's wrong with these heads and I've talked to Brodix about it again. They redesigned the passages in the heads and my heads are right without the holes drilled. It's like the heads are getting "hot spots" in them and that's what's swinging my temp gage all over the place.
 

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i have just around 5k miles on my IK180 heads, and have never had one over heating issue. that also includes 13-4 track passes, and MANY wot runs.
stock water pump., 180* t-stat, BOP brass 3-4 core rad.





aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i have just around 5k miles on my IK180 heads, and have never had one over heating issue. that also includes 13-4 track passes, and MANY wot runs.
stock water pump., 180* t-stat, BOP brass 3-4 core rad.





aaron

Thanks Aaron,

Your heads are exactly like mine. The water ports are not drilled through. Since you don't have cooling problems...or crazy gauge action, I guess that's not the problem. My problem didn't start until I changed heads so I don't know where else to look. I put a stock water pump on and it did the same thing, so.... I'm lost.

Hopefully adding the water bypass hoses will fix the problem.

Ray
 
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