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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was in the process of removing my old brake booster/master cylinder/etc.....the whole front brake system. I took a 9/16 brake line wrench to one of the 4 nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall and it stripped the nut to she-it
I have to get this booster off because I am going to run tall valve covers/502/roller rockers. Unfortunately there are studs, not bolts that hold the booster onto the firewall eliminating any possibility of working on it from the other side. Any suggestions that do not involve a blowtorch, sledge hammer, or C-4?

Thanks, Mike
 

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Which one was it?

You might get lucky with a deap well socket. Maybe one of those 9(?) point jobber's. Make it a metric size just a tad too small. Then hammer the thing over the rounded nut. Grab a wobble and soem extensions and get some dirt on those nuckles


and for goodness sake, spray some penetrating lubricant on it!

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BB414, TH400, 3.73 posi,
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the suggestion(s) Mike but I have already sprayed tons of liquid wrench on it and the b-nut wrench stripped it to the point where the nut doesn't resemble a nut anymore. Even the $40 Craftsman-locking-grip-removal-wrench-"the more you turn,the tighter the grip" things didn't work.

Mike
 

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How about grinding it off or cutting it with a dremel tool with a cut off disc.

Good luck!

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay, so two votes for the dremel with a cut-off wheel. Having never done this before, what precautions should I take so I don't cut the stud off in the process? I have fairly good coodination and this nut is towards the center of the car so I can get to it. Thanks again.

Mike
 

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You can purchase a Craftsman tool designed to split stripped or seized nuts. It has a reversible wedge blade and when tighted it will cut into the side of the nut and split it.A dremel tool with a small cutoff tool will work also.NO WD-40 near dremel cutoff wheel sparks.
 

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Myself I would put some heat to the nut, and then use some vice grips to get it off. A little heat will make the most rusted, over tightened nut that you couldnt get off with a breaker bar come off with ease. You dont need a full torch setup, just go to home depot and get a mapp gas torch setup. (small yellow tank). It burns hotter than propane and I bet after 30 sec of heat you can take the nut off with ease.

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How about a simple nut splitter?

If you can't get one on it the dremmel may work but I suspect you will damage the treads on the stud and I doubt a thread chaser will fit over it for repairs!

A couple other ideas..... cut the stud off and drill it out for replacement with a bolt.

The other does involve a torch..... heat what is left of the nut with a mini torch. You will be absolutely amazed at how that heat loosens a nut.

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow, at least I have several options. I will start with the heating of the nut/vice grips idea before I buy any more tools that I will probably never use again in this lifetime. Once again I thank you all for your input.

Mike
 

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I would think twice about using heat to get the nut off, could result in fire damage and more work in the end. I would go the dremel tool route. You can always run a die over threads of the bolt or replace the bolt.

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Tom Donaldson
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The mini torch will put almost all the heat in the nut. The mass of metal in the bolt and mounting plate will soak up the excess heat quickly. Obviously, keep water and an extinguisher nearby anytime you use a torch or welder.



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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
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TAKE THE AIR OUT OF THE TIRE FIRST!!!!!!!!!!
Heat + Air = BOOM
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Jim72Chevelle:
TAKE THE AIR OUT OF THE TIRE FIRST!!!!!!!!!!
Heat + Air = BOOM
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

What you talkin' 'bout, Willis?
 
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