I am assembling a fuel system with braided hoses. Do I need to lubricate the AN fittings to prevent galling? What about sealing, do I need to use the same paste I used on my old hard lines? As usual, all help is appreciated.
Motor oil on the fittings as you install them on the hose, no pipe thread sealer, that is what the flare fittings are for, they seal at the flair. You can put a little oil on the threads to keep them from sticking.
Advanced Automotive Machine
1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100
On my Dragster every single line was braided line/AN fittings.Use motor oil, LOTS!!! When cutting the hose to length wrap it a few times with black electrical tape right where you will be cutting it so, when you make your cut you will be going through the tape.( this will help prevent the steel braiding from fraying) Put the end you're not using in the vise close as possible to the cut mark, then use a hack saw (carefully). Also put masking tape on the AN fittings when you are connecting the line,ths will prevent yu from scratching up your expensive (and great looking) fittings. .....well thats how I did mine ,if it helps.
[This message has been edited by Joe454 (edited 06-14-99).]
i may be too late to get in on this thread, but can you give me a quick run down on how the fittings/hose connections work? do you just cut the braided part and push the hose into the fitting and tighten?
Just did this last night with lines for remote oil filter. Unscrew the flared fitting out of the collar. Screw the collar onto line till end of hose is flush with the fine threads. Then screw in the swivel fitting.
The fabric/steel inner braid/rubber liner Aeroquip FC-300 or FC-350 (and others) is put together like Duane says. For the steel external braid over a teflon liner, (Aeroquip 2807 and 2808, for instance) there is a sleeve (ferrule) that goes between the liner and braid after the socket (hose end nut) is installed. Then you slide the hose end into the liner, and crush the ferrule with the socket. Very similar to copper tubing and ferrules in principle.
Something to watch for: Not all taper-seal fittings are the same. There is a 45 degree taper, which where I work is known as "SAE taper" and there is a 37 degree taper which was known as "JIC taper" although SAE also recognizes the 37 degree stuff now. The tricky part is that SAE and JIC thread sizes are the same except for -6 hose. A -8 SAE hose end will thread onto a -8 JIC fitting, for example. Unless you have a universal hose end (not recommended) you will have an unreliable connection!
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