Team Chevelle banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this is in a '63 corvette, original trans. i have had a pro gear shop (that specializes in old cars) take two hacks at rebuilding my trans. still it doesn't want to go into 2nd until it's totally warm and then it's kinda clunky. isn't real excited about going into first cold either. 3rd/ 4th, rev are fine.
any ideas? were there some defective syncro's, sliders, or ? made?

they are acting like i have to drive it a while for it to settle in, but that doesn't sound right to me. muncies i've had rebuilt work great from the get go. besides you can't hardly get any miles on it because it doesn't shift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Funny this should come up as i just put together a '63 Corvette borg warner t10 last night. My first thoughts are what weight gear oil are you using? It almost sounds as if the gear oil is too thick when the transmission is cold and works better when the trans warms up and the oil becomes thinner. Do you know what parts were replaced during the rebuild? Bad synchro rings,worn slides and worn synchro teeth on the gears will also cause these symptoms. Fortunately these transmissions come with drain plugs so changing the gear oil is easy so i would try using some sta-lube 85/90 gear oil with the GL4 rating (available at Napa) and see if that helps before taking the trans back out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,984 Posts
After I replaced my stock bell with a SFI bell, I had similar issues. Since I had only driven the car about 10 miles from the time I bought it until I replaced the Bell, I assumed It was the trans. When I pulled the engine for the resto, I noticed the clutch was oddly worn and the fingers on the Pressure plate were pushed in on one side. I reattached the clutch and bell on the engine and found that the clutch fork was at the wrong angle and wasn't fully disengaging the clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
480 Posts
That's funny my T10 is out of a 63 vette. Like scott said check your clutch, also oil type. Make sure it's plain ol' 80/90w, no synthetics till you know if that's the problem or not. I do run lucas oil stabilizer in mine. I just had it rebuilt and it shifts great.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,182 Posts
Did your rebuild guy use new shift forks? I have learned that the new ST10 forks are a bit different than early T10 forks. If they did, try loosening the 9 sidecover bolts and see if it shifts smoother in 1st and 2nd. Of course, do not start or drive your vehicle with the sidecover bolts loose!

If this is your problem, it is an easy fix.

Keep us posted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the replies so far. in the rebuild, the 1st and 2nd gears were replaced because of the syncro teeth were rounded off. i did put GL-4 in it, stay lube brand. the bell is stock, the clutch is a zoom stock style clutch but with OE specs. i did have to modify the clutch linkage to get it adjusted right. but the trans guy looked at it and thought it was fine.
you guys think i could have just a clutch problem??? i've got about the right about of free travel right now and i am under the assumption you can adjust any clutch and it'll work. am i wrong??
does a clutch problem fit with the problem being way worse cold than hot? i'm thinking more along the lines of syncro's or a slider, but i am not an expert, that's why i'm here.
thanks,
glenn
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,182 Posts
I would think it is something with the internals of your transmission. Maybe too much strut key spring pressure in the 1-2 synchro assembly? There was a bad batch of oversized T10 synchros that made it to the public, this caused notchy shifting. Even Richmond gear installed these oversized synchros in their 4, 5, & 6 speeds. I know, we had a lot of repair work from this.

A new gear cone also needs to be broken in with a new synchronizer. How many miles are on the unit?

I would think if your clutch was causing the problem, it would be in every gear, not just second.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i've driven the car about 100-120 miles. and the problem was not getting any better. it's hard to drive it to get miles on it when it won't shift at all into 2nd and hard to get into 1st as well. i just don't think that could be normal even if it needed to be broke in, do you?
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top