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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I have been having problems with my booster and master cylinder for about a year now. Each time I replace to booster I get the adjustment wrong and blow out the seal in my master and I loose my rear brakes. Since fluid runs out of the rear seal in the master it eats away at my booster and I have to replace that as well. It is a never ending cycle. I keep adjusting the pushrod too long. I follow the direction and everything works as advertised. But alas it fails again quickly.

I want to buy a booster and master that come from the autoparts store already bolted together. If I do this will the pushrod still have to be adjusted? Or can I just bolt it up and bleed the lines? Thanks
 

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Sounds to me like a mismatch. Booster should have either a "long" or "short" rod coming out the front-no adjustment. Master should have either a "deep" or "shallow" hole- no adjustment. Sounds to me like you have a shallow hole master with the long rod on booster. Change the rod on the booster to the short one and you should be good. Clevis rod out of the back of booster that connects to brake pedal has nothing to do with it. Do you have to force master on to the booster to get it to bolt up? If so, that's your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
DN - I do not have to force the master onto the booster. It bolts up perfectly. I also did not think that there was an adjustment on the boooster. But when I read the directions on the install guide that came with the booster it said that it could be adjusted.
 

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Just make sure you have a matching set as stated. You could even bolt the booster on, and then dry fit the master with a piece of modeling clay in the hole. You should wind up with a smidge of space (1 /16" or so) between rod and piston. The only other thing I can think of is pushing the piston in too far when bench bleeding master. That can damage seal.
 
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