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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
More, reminder this is the caprice gas tank swap deal
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
So a little slow with winter kicking in. Working on a list of things to do this winter. Will share once completed but will consist of some minor performance upgrades, little fab work for creature comforts, transmission & clutch modifications, and DIET! This car needs to ditch some weight.
I
In the mean time I got some stuff for the oiling system(s).

First thing was I picked up a flow meter. I have always wondered what the oiling system flows, in this case a HV/HP melling pump. so I will be testing that as well the fuel system output for each pump. Let’s see what a automotive 340 actual does compared to a knock off.



as well I picked up some magnetic filtration gear. Magnetic plugs, I tell yea... never seen one pick up a 5lb hammer before. I use gold plugs and there lucky to grab a 11/16 wrench. plugs will go in the differential(drain and fill) and transmission
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as well a magnetic oil filter pad. This thing is ridiculous!!! I have used others as well, including my home build version with 24 rare earth magnets, not even a compression. Makes everything look like a tonka toy!

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anyone interested in magnetic filtration list above as well inline magnetic filter applications, shoot me a PM. I have become a distributor for this stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Well tested the fuel system, some interesting results.

11.6v @ 63psi was 6-6.3l/min
12.5v @ 63psi was 7.2-7.5l/min
13.2v @ 63psi was 8.5l/min
13.9v @ 63psi was 9.0l/min

it should be noted, the lower the voltage the more in-stable the fuel flow was, pressure always remained a constant. So that means the regulator is doing its job. The measurement was taken with both pumps running at once. The flow meter was plumbed in on the return side after the regulator. Completed this way so it tests the entire pressure fuel side and the fuel filters. Fuel pumps used was 1-Aeromotive 340 and 1- No Name 340.

Some variables that may change this is the return size. I run 2-3/8” SS fuel lines, each on its own circuit to the sniper. My return, which is the variable, is only 3/8” SS line as well. A bigger return may yield more flow. As well I am very diligent in check ID sizes of fuel fittings, I’d imagine a couple are smaller than the rest of the system .

Conclusion: At 8.5l/min that converts into 510lph roughly @ 3500ft above sea level, good enough for 12-1300hp with a 0.6 BSFC. I think I am good!!!

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Further testing, I dialed my regulator down as far as I could get it. Turns out it won’t go any lower on the gauge than 20psi. That’s with the regulator screw pulled out. My assumption variable was correct, the return side is a restriction, which would make my estimate of 1000hp system pretty conservative. With the motor running and consuming fuel at this level the return line would pose no restriction allowing the pressure side to supply more fuel than what I tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
So I got around to testing the oil system flow. So just to clarify for some this is a Gen VI block with the factory oil cooler in play. I am running melling HV/HP pump. bearing clearances are on the typical race loose side. Running 0w40 Mobil 1 synthetic. Oil temp wasn’t all the way up but 80% of operating.

so I spliced the flow meter in where the oil cooler was. Results are as such:

11-13lpm (3-3.5gpm) @ 950rpm @ 40psi
16lpm (4-4.5lpm) @ 2000rpm @ 50psi
20lpm (5-5.5lpm) @ 3000rpm @ 55psi

oil pressure in the test is higher than mynormal operating pressure. As a result these flow numbers would increase by 10-15% at least. I didn’t get the oil temp up to proper as the flow meter can only handle so much heat before it fails, but this provides a good baseline.

Id be willing to be at this point anything past 3000rpm you are hitting the oil bypass in the block

IMPORTANT. I’d like to note the meter basically registered zero flow when the engine temp was below 100f. At 140f engine temp the oil flow reached approx 8-10lpm.
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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Ohh snap! A perfect set of Beaumont hubcaps. These rare things are super hard to come by. Picked up a set, maybe I will run em. Doubt I would be fooling anyone at this point. As a car owner sometimes you turn into a collector of stuff for your ride. Last set I’ve seen for sale was 10yr ago!
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
Here we go, 8-channel EGT monitoring/datalogger. Can also data log o2 signal, be setup for outputs. Full digital setup for laptop programming through EGT or mate with something using CAN. I’ll get some more pictures up with the fab work and wiring when I get started on this.
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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Well it’s been slow but finally got after it. Started with the EGT system. Biggest part of this job is just getting the headers off for welding. Probe placement is 1” from the flange. Now I measured this on the inside of the tube. There’s a couple angles to thing about when welding this. As well depth wise the probe is 1” into the tube. This provides consistency hopefully for egt readings. All in all this places the probe 4-5” away from the exhaust valve. Probe depths measured on the bench for accuracy. Utilized a closed tip probe, there have been rare cases of the tips falling off, not really good for turbo.

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
5lb battery... check!

bang for the buck you cannot beat this on weight loss I feel. Compared to a hood your half the price for the same loss of 50lbs. Only thing compatible would be drag rim/tire setup.

this battery has 880 cranking amps, 32 amp/hour capacity as well a build in restart feature. No need for booster cables or booster boxes now. Smaller than a conventional 51 series battery.
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5lb battery... check!

bang for the buck you cannot beat this on weight loss I feel. Compared to a hood your half the price for the same loss of 50lbs. Only thing compatible would be drag rim/tire setup.

this battery has 880 cranking amps, 32 amp/hour capacity as well a build in restart feature. No need for booster cables or booster boxes now. Smaller than a conventional 51 series battery.
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How many CCA's?
How much?
Where did you get?
Do they come with side terminals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
How many CCA's?
How much?
Where did you get?
Do they come with side terminals?
CCA, doesn’t really matter to me. My last twin battery setup had a combined 480 cranking amps. Worked all through race week without hiccup. That said my old man has run this battery for 2 years in his 68 Camaro, again not a lick of problems.

cost was $400can all in from amazon.

terminal location is irrelevant now. As it is a lithium battery you can mount them any direct. I mount one in buddies race car upside down in the fender. Super versatile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
New front rubber for 1/4mi racing. Some Weld drag lites that are blacked out with a 28x4.5” MT drag front runner. All in all this change netted 44lbs weight loss. Each rim/tire weighted in at 20lbs each.

Next up is the front air dam!

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Are you running a Drag Radial in the rear?
yes I prefer the stability and contact patch for the top end.

right now it’s a ET Street SS 295. Will be upgrading to a ET Pro Drag Radial. 30x9 or 30x10 I expect. Gonna do some testing before I order on our next track rental day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
New bug catcher installed.

well front air dam completed. In case your wondering I got this off a 85 Chevy 2wd pickup. These things retail for about $50. There one of the flattest ones out there with a mount pad. They carry good depth as well. Overall the air dam from the Center of the bumper is about 7-8” deep and on the sides about 5” deep. This really completes the body lines of a 68-69. The front fenders and bumper have a very large uprise In body lines, almost looks in-complete.

so width wise this is a perfect fit, the 45 degree taper ties in with the bumper perfectly. I used an array of foam tape to seal it the best to the bumper.

mall in all I am happy and this should help overall with everything. Additional cooling, handling, and some aero.

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Discussion Starter · #180 ·
Today’s task was to fix the turbo intake. I tried my first pie cut piece and I never liked how it turned out. 16ga was WAY to heavy for the task. The indent for the charge pipe passing by was WAY to much and in the wrong position. The angle was way out as well.

new piece... a 24ga 6” dis piece of HVAC piping. It was already a pie cut piece with multi angles. Further to that I could get the indent in the correct position. Once fitted... tack welded all the joints and then used silicone to seal it out. Between this and the fernco sewer coupler, I’m golden!!!

some before and after pictures

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