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Boosted Beaumont Build

29894 Views 326 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  Steve69SS396
So I thought I’d start a thread on my winter build. Every year I do something to upgrade the car.

Little history, the car is a 1968 Beaumont Custom, I have owned this car since 2002. It laid rest in a field for 4 years when someone completed a semi restoration on it. The winters we’re pretty harsh in the area so now it definitely has some patina. This car to date has been threw 4 motors 5 transmission and 2 differentials. It started out as a Smokey 350 motor with a 700r4 and Corp 10 belt setup. Now it is a 502, T56 Mag, s60 combo. There is also an array of suspension and chassis upgrades to get it where is is today. Overall the interior and exterior remain stock.

So this leads up to this winters upgrades!

After completing Drag Week 2018 I have realized that if a guy wants more power you don’t necessarily need a larger motor, just cheat with some boost. Originally when I got the 502 I was gonna boost it but held back as my power goals were low for boost. For the builds end outcome I am looking to achieve a dyno proven 800-850 crank horsepower/torque between 5-5500rpm. I am not sure if this is realistic but we will find out. I am limiting myself to this number as the bottom end will not support anymore than this.

The combo will be a single (twin scroll) Garrett turbo
Single wastegate
5” down pipe with a single 3.50” exhaust and boost activated cutout
Water to air intercooler
GM 502 short block
AFR305 heads
Straub hydro cam
Victor intake
Holley super sniper
New LSA twin disk clutch

All said and done hopefully I can complete this before Rocky Mountain Race Week

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Discussion Starter · #321 ·
Well I can see why I put this off for so long. Decided to port the chambers on my AFR 305 heads. These are a 2005 casting era, I bought them new as a ‘as-cast’ chamber. These had major ridges in them from when AFR milled in the seats and it was never cleaned up. I am told just removing these ridges is worth 10-15cfm basically across the map. Don’t ask me how much more power it will make but should help some anyways. Rough port work took about 1.5hrs a head but a final touch up of the chamber takes 1hr a chamber.

i am by no means changing the chamber shape, I am not experienced enough to know what to do there. Toolsis a 1/8” air die-grinder loaded with some deemed bits and flap disk wheels. I had some valves milled down you I can get closer to the valve seats without scoring them up.

once Comepleted I will send them in to get surfaced and done!

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Discussion Starter · #323 ·
Finally got some race rims for the rear. Weld draglite, I already have a set of skinny up front so this will be the matching set. 15x10 rim. 28x10.5 slick. Weight is 39lbs each. Pretty good.

now to measure up if a 28x10.5W fits in the wheel tub!

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Discussion Starter · #325 ·
Lamb rear disk brakes, typically found on pro stock, dragsters, and super stock cars. This brake system is HD but still really light. Rotors are solid 0.4” thick, OE solid rotors are 0.5” thick for reference. As well 11.5” diameter. Lightweight calipers made of 7075 with 1.625 aluminum pistons. Uses the same mounting pattern as a Wilwood dynapro calipers. Brake pads are the same as a dynapro. So this is very universal all around with parts somewhat easy

weight loss, Lamb kit 11lbs each side. 9.5” aluminum drum setup is 16.5lbs each side. Weight loss of 5lbs or 10 overall. Take it while you can. Will post up install photos later.

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Discussion Starter · #326 ·
The trifecta of drag n drives this year. BC DragiT, Miles of Mayhem, and Redwood Ralley. All signed up. I will be driving the car to each event, racing and driving home. This will be a blast. If your around any of these events, come out there great with a lot of like minded people, be cool to meet some fellow team members as well!

BC DragiT jun 15-19
Miles of mayhem July 23-29
Redwood Ralley sep 26-30
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