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Boosted Beaumont Build

29894 Views 326 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  Steve69SS396
So I thought I’d start a thread on my winter build. Every year I do something to upgrade the car.

Little history, the car is a 1968 Beaumont Custom, I have owned this car since 2002. It laid rest in a field for 4 years when someone completed a semi restoration on it. The winters we’re pretty harsh in the area so now it definitely has some patina. This car to date has been threw 4 motors 5 transmission and 2 differentials. It started out as a Smokey 350 motor with a 700r4 and Corp 10 belt setup. Now it is a 502, T56 Mag, s60 combo. There is also an array of suspension and chassis upgrades to get it where is is today. Overall the interior and exterior remain stock.

So this leads up to this winters upgrades!

After completing Drag Week 2018 I have realized that if a guy wants more power you don’t necessarily need a larger motor, just cheat with some boost. Originally when I got the 502 I was gonna boost it but held back as my power goals were low for boost. For the builds end outcome I am looking to achieve a dyno proven 800-850 crank horsepower/torque between 5-5500rpm. I am not sure if this is realistic but we will find out. I am limiting myself to this number as the bottom end will not support anymore than this.

The combo will be a single (twin scroll) Garrett turbo
Single wastegate
5” down pipe with a single 3.50” exhaust and boost activated cutout
Water to air intercooler
GM 502 short block
AFR305 heads
Straub hydro cam
Victor intake
Holley super sniper
New LSA twin disk clutch

All said and done hopefully I can complete this before Rocky Mountain Race Week

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Discussion Starter · #302 · (Edited)
Well the car is back up on the ‘hoist’ for the winter. Like every year there is a list of “to-do’s” and what not. I have come to the conclusion next year I bringing this up a competing level with a street focus. Goal is to add 300 wheel HP to the whole setup. Base motor setup is there just need a couple small additions:

-Camshaft, going as big as I can for street duty still. 6000rpm limit instead of 5-5200rpm
-Rebuild and port these AFR 305 heads
-new 1500trq rated clutch, already ordered
-3:1 clutch pedal reduction
-motor mounts, hate these solid ones
-look at INstant center
-aluminum exhaust (full 5”?) and brake setup
-weld up a cracked Dana 60 axle
-remove tachometer, replace with clock.
-hubcaps for the win

biggest Deal for me right now is head gaskets. Going to move from a composite fel Pro head gasket to a MLS style.

Wife let me know she’s wants to be in the “heavy hitter” line next year!

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Chris you've brought the car a long way.
Have fun this winter.
 

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Well the car is back up on the ‘hoist’ for the winter. Like every year there is a list of “to-do’s” and what not. I have come to the conclusion next year I bringing this up a competing level with a street focus. Goal is to add 300 wheel HP to the whole setup. Base motor setup is there just need a couple small additions:

-Camshaft, going as big as I can for street duty still. 6000rpm limit instead of 5-5200rpm
-Rebuild and port these AFR 305 heads
-new 1500trq rated clutch, already ordered
-3:1 clutch pedal reduction
-motor mounts, hate these solid ones
-look at IC
-aluminum exhaust (full 5”?) and brake setup
-weld up a cracked Dana 60 axle
-remove tachometer, replace with clock.
-hubcaps for the win

biggest Deal for me right now is head gaskets. Going to move from a composite fel Pro head gasket to a MLS style.

Wife let me know she’s wants to be in the “heavy hitter” line next year!
Your car has come a long way. I looked at this thread when you were building it. I hadn't looked at it since you got it running. I didn't realize you went with a regular head gasket. You definitely want to go to an MLS. That's what it in mine. I sprayed straight methanol on my car also, two 15GPH nozzles. Mine would start between 130-140 and would increase about 30 degrees in 5 seconds. How big is your current cam if you only run it to 5,200? Did you run the car with this engine and no turbo? Before the Procharger mine went 6.60's in the 1/8th and 10.40's in the 1/4. What fuel are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #305 ·
Your car has come a long way. I looked at this thread when you were building it. I hadn't looked at it since you got it running. I didn't realize you went with a regular head gasket. You definitely want to go to an MLS. That's what it in mine. I sprayed straight methanol on my car also, two 15GPH nozzles. Mine would start between 130-140 and would increase about 30 degrees in 5 seconds. How big is your current cam if you only run it to 5,200? Did you run the car with this engine and no turbo? Before the Procharger mine went 6.60's in the 1/8th and 10.40's in the 1/4. What fuel are you running?
my intake temps don’t rise above 110f. I use meth more for deto suppression. Right now I am on pump and will keep it on pump for simplicity. Current cam is a zz502 (224/233 @ .050, smaller than most SBC) so there is a lot for improvement there. Keep in mind this is a street car with a manual transmission. Best so far is a 6.60, no 2 step or boost builder. Still run a fully synchronized trans. Goal moving forward iS a 6.0 average on a drag n drive event, pump gas deal.

camshaft I am thinking of somewhere between 235-245 durations @ .050 should be a good deal
 

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my intake temps don’t rise above 110f. I use meth more for deto suppression. Right now I am on pump and will keep it on pump for simplicity. Current cam is a zz502 (224/233 @ .050, smaller than most SBC) so there is a lot for improvement there. Keep in mind this is a street car with a manual transmission. Best so far is a 6.60, no 2 step or boost builder. Still run a fully synchronized trans. Goal moving forward iS a 6.0 average on a drag n drive event, pump gas deal.

camshaft I am thinking of somewhere between 235-245 durations @ .050 should be a good deal
My F2 is too big to run in reverse so that the intake faces forward. It pulls air from over the headers so the air starts out hot before it's even compressed. I recently cut about a 12" section out of the inner fender to allow more air and I moved the blower out and down. Your cam is real small for a 540. I'd lean more toward 245+ on the duration but that's me. I hope to do a drag n drive event next year. I've got a flex fuel sensor that I need to install. Then I can run pump gas if E85 isn't available.
 

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Great Job on the new best time and reaction time!
That pic at the Esso sure looks like Glenborough Manitoba! Nice line up of cars!
Next spring will come faster than you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #309 ·
Bryan got me a wicked shot. This was on the 1.50-60ft and 6.60 pass in 1/8mi.

I should really wash this thing before racing... Street car life!

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Discussion Starter · #310 ·
Been a slow start to winter stuff but things are progressing. New clutch ordered, camshaft ordered, materials for small frame upgrades, and head gaskets.

managed to get the heads off tonight and everything looks pretty good, except for oil consumption. As well looks like some heat checking on the studs nearest to the exhaust port. #2 in particular has good color, this would be the hottest port with the highest back pressure given how I made the turbo system. Not sure what to think on that, will ask around.

looking at these chambers there is a lot of soft carbon build Up. I have a feeling the guides are shot, as well all the intake rocker studs are probably leaking like crazy.

also asked a member here to run some IC/anti squat numbers on my car. Well looks like my setup is half decent with 137% anti squat and basically spot on for instant center. Keeping in mind this is just after market parts on a stock frame.

Passenger side

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Drivers side

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exhaust studs


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I'm sorry it's been awhile since I read through your build. What are your plans with the car? Strictly street or occasionally do you plan to take it to the track? My car was built for mostly street with an emphasis on the track when I do take it there. My car came with a stick and I was going to stay with that. Unfortunately, reality hit me like it did back in the early 80's. It's fun to row the gears but for consistent straight line performance you can't beat an automatic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #312 ·
I'm sorry it's been awhile since I read through your build. What are your plans with the car? Strictly street or occasionally do you plan to take it to the track? My car was built for mostly street with an emphasis on the track when I do take it there. My car came with a stick and I was going to stay with that. Unfortunately, reality hit me like it did back in the early 80's. It's fun to row the gears but for consistent straight line performance you can't beat an automatic.
80% street, 15% drag n drive, 5% drag.

I collect most of my miles on drag n drive events, I usually go for 2 in a summer. That said I go for fun and not competitively as I don’t want a roll cage in the car. Car is fully capable, after this winter, of low 9’s on pump gas, but me and the family cruise town a lot as well. Thinking about a 5pt roll bar, haven’t convinced myself yet.
 

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80% street, 15% drag n drive, 5% drag.

I collect most of my miles on drag n drive events, I usually go for 2 in a summer. That said I go for fun and not competitively as I don’t want a roll cage in the car. Car is fully capable, after this winter, of low 9’s on pump gas, but me and the family cruise town a lot as well. Thinking about a 5pt roll bar, haven’t convinced myself yet.
I went for years without a bar or cage and the car was running 10.40's back then. All I had was a lap belt, jacket and a helmet. I feel much better about running the car at the track now after I put a 10 point cage in. I've got a swing out bar on my side. I need to put one in on the passenger side so my wife doesn't have to climb over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #314 · (Edited)
First critical part for moving forward…. New clutch assembly. If you’ve been following I have been slowly working through clutches as HP/TRQ are moving up. Basically I can’t feed all the boost I want down low without blowing through a clutch, unless I am using some boost management. Well that’s just Lame! So ordered up a RXT 1500. This is a dual disk 10.5” and utilizes the same system as the original street twin except with metallic disks. Ordered with steel flywheel given my success going this direction. Some stats:

rxt with aluminum flywheel, 32lbs
Rxt with 30lb steel flywheel, 49lbs
Rxt 1500 with steel flywheel, 43lbs

left is RXT1200 w/aluminum, middle RXT 1500 w/steel, right RXT1000 w/steel.

this new clutch has a pretty specialized flywheel. I believeMcLeod does this to keep the cover heights all the same, which they are. Also the hubs on the 1500 have a big offset to keep them properly on the input shaft of the transmission. I hope this clutch is the end, that said I plan on ‘maxing’ it out.

clutch disk material on the 1500 appears to be a sintered bronze, not confirmed. I do know the RXT system is a ceramic material. This may be slightly aggressive over the RXT stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #316 ·
Well, pretty quiet here. Working on some custom fabrication stuff still so not much to update.

biggest one is Miles of Mayhem annoyed new tracks and dates for this season. Honestly this will be the toughest one of the year for drag n drives. Each day is going to be a 5-6hr drive with racing. Usually you get 1 or 2 with breaks on every drag n drive show, not this one.

so… this season me and the fam jam decided we’re sending it. Original goals was 6.40’s - ish for goals. Moving forward I am shooting for high 5’s now in the 1/8th while pulling gears. That said the car will remain the same, just going to make some real power!

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Discussion Starter · #317 ·
Small post today.

did a little testing on pressure plates to see about pedal pressure differences.

RXT 1000 - 1600psi
RXT 1200 - 2400psi
RXT 1500 - 1750psi

I believe the 1500 is easier than expected as the leverage arms on the larger diaphragm clutch give you the mechanical advantage, but plate pressure should be higher because of it. This would keeps pedal pressure down.

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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
Well here’s what I have been building for a while, a 2:1 pedal reduction system. So I moved the master cylinder off the fire wall and down onto the frame. With that required a cantilever style linkage assembly, somewhat similar to a mechanical setup. Shaft assembly installed on roller bearings as well grim joints to minimize friction. Overall this should drop pedal for by 50% with a 3/4 bore OR 25% with a 7/8 bore. Now for cons this does increase clutch pedal stroke with it.

my theory on this is a pedal that is 50% easier to push can be completed a lot faster than one with a 1:1 setup half the stroke. That’s sounds backwards. One big positive is with the additional stroke it will be easier to find the sweet spot of engagement for the clutch.

numbers…. Old clutch pedal stroke was 2.5” at a direct ratio. New setup is about 5.5” at 2:1 ratio. If I go to a 7/8 bore it will be 3.75” stroke. So I have a couple options to fine tune the setup based on what the new clutch wants!

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Discussion Starter · #319 · (Edited)
Little more stiffening. Added one more body-frame mount on a floor brace. So that makes for a total of 6 additional mount points. I did this in the past with great success, reason I didn’t do this one is because there’s already one there. But after a frame inspection I noticed some movement, to be expected with 1000ft/lbs at the tires and more to come this season. So this should fix that problem right up. So now every floor brace on my car has a fixed body mount!

Utilized 2.5x2.5 square tube with a 3/16 wall thickness. 1/2” bolts this round instead of 7/16.

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