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Boosted Beaumont Build

29894 Views 326 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  Steve69SS396
So I thought I’d start a thread on my winter build. Every year I do something to upgrade the car.

Little history, the car is a 1968 Beaumont Custom, I have owned this car since 2002. It laid rest in a field for 4 years when someone completed a semi restoration on it. The winters we’re pretty harsh in the area so now it definitely has some patina. This car to date has been threw 4 motors 5 transmission and 2 differentials. It started out as a Smokey 350 motor with a 700r4 and Corp 10 belt setup. Now it is a 502, T56 Mag, s60 combo. There is also an array of suspension and chassis upgrades to get it where is is today. Overall the interior and exterior remain stock.

So this leads up to this winters upgrades!

After completing Drag Week 2018 I have realized that if a guy wants more power you don’t necessarily need a larger motor, just cheat with some boost. Originally when I got the 502 I was gonna boost it but held back as my power goals were low for boost. For the builds end outcome I am looking to achieve a dyno proven 800-850 crank horsepower/torque between 5-5500rpm. I am not sure if this is realistic but we will find out. I am limiting myself to this number as the bottom end will not support anymore than this.

The combo will be a single (twin scroll) Garrett turbo
Single wastegate
5” down pipe with a single 3.50” exhaust and boost activated cutout
Water to air intercooler
GM 502 short block
AFR305 heads
Straub hydro cam
Victor intake
Holley super sniper
New LSA twin disk clutch

All said and done hopefully I can complete this before Rocky Mountain Race Week

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Well this turned out very good. Made a shock style slipper clutch. This is actually the 1 hood shock off the front end that I used. A friend on mine built an adapter/bracket for the clutch pedal I sketched out. Turned it on a lathe obviously. On the other end is just a simple square tubing piece to mount the straight shock end of the shock. On the backside is the adjuster, will fully admit it’s not the easiest thing to adjust but it definitely goes will the sleeper theme anyway. All in all nothing is visible.

so not to sure how to test this thing but I used a sloW-no camera tosee some changes. Initially it seemed to quick. So I changed the shock fluid to slow it down some, old fluid was 10wt shock oil and I went to a 5w30 motor oil. That is about double the cST. In any event it did slow it down .25secs it looks like. Now to get some testing in and see if it’s enough. From full disengagement to full engagement is about0.75-1.0 seconds in the slow-no video. If all this works, I will invest in a adjustable shock setup so I can better dial it in, basically proof of concept first.

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Very interesting idea. Wouldn't this setup be active on all shifts all the time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #282 ·
Very interesting idea. Wouldn't this setup be active on all shifts all the time?
yes it is active on all gear changes. Regular driving you don’t notice anything obviously.

the idea is to keep from loosing dramatic rpm in between gear shifts. In my world I don’t run compressed air on the wastegate. So I loose all boost in every gear change. The shock helpsRPM recovery in between gears as I am making dramatically less power production. As well it takes shock loading off drivetrain parts.

the hard part is setting it up such that it works for launch and driving down the track. Slip at launch is a lot more than what’s required for a 3-4 gear change.

right now I am testing my own progressive hydraulic clutch controller while I wait for a more adjustable shock to arrive. So far a programmed controller may be the final direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #283 ·
So keeping up with these race cars is getting more difficult. I have built the car around street theme and trying my best to maintain that. But to remain competitive in events a lot of racers are switching t E85 or race gas. Something I am not really going for… yet anyway. So the next best thing for a street racer is a water/meth kit. I am told if utilized correctly it is equivalent to a C116 fuel type in my application. All said And done boost will come up a extra 8psi and timing will come up as well!

i will do a quick blurb on this as well, with emphasis on hiding it as best I can.

probably the last upgrade for the year next to the clutch…. Who am I kidding right!

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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
progress is slow but it is coming along. Had to relocate the battery again. Basically shoved it further into the drivers side fender and then mounted the washer tank where the stock one was. Working with a 4lb battery really simplifies things. Brackets don’t need to be bulky at all. Install is turning out very factory like. This side of the engine bay I always though was a disaster so it is also a much needed cleanup season happening.

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Discussion Starter · #285 ·
Buddy of mine machined up some nice petite style weld bings for the injectors. I will be using 3 in total with different sizing in each for the power levels. Also grabbed a tin of M1 methanol for mixing. More install to come over the weekend.

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Discussion Starter · #286 ·
We’ll all wrapped up on this one. Really happy how it turned out with install. Fender mount looks very factory if you ask me, may even see how I cAn hook that pump up to my actual windshield shooters. Only going to run 2 jets for now till I get it all worked out. Holley sniper will activate this based on boost, TPS, or RPM. 3 port is there for this winter, assuming the stars align, when I crank it up to 20psi on pump gas. Battery hides right behind the windshield wiper tank.

immediately timing will be bumped up 3 degrees. Boost will get ramped in from the measly 10 up to 13psi again. I’ll hold here for fear of a head gasket popping out past this point. Should be very close 1000wheel now. I believe every degree timing on this motor yield about 25whp. Still at 5250 rpm ;)

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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
Tune tune tune…. Day at the track today. Will post up more. So far, drove 100mi at 6am to get here. Cruised at a solid 80mph the whole way. The old man decided to come out as well and rip his Camaro. Track was slippery, first pass it shock the tires pretty good at the end of 1st and half way through second. Air pressure went up to 15psi, little too much I am thinking.

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Discussion Starter · #288 ·
Well days done! Bunch of 1.55 60ft’s and 6.8-6.9 1/8mi passes. No improvements so far in efficiency. Need to get that 60ft down and a boost builder, seems like a repeat story.

anywho, anyone smarter than me know what cause this on the tires? Looks like balls of rubber stuck to the tread.
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Could be associated with some traction problems!
 

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Soft compound with under inflation.
AND too much power 😉.
 
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Discussion Starter · #290 ·
Soft compound with under inflation.
AND too much power 😉.
Never seen it this bad before. In Florida I ran the same pressure and the tires w always clean. Thinking track prep was a lot better.

Basically in short this is tire spin then? Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #291 ·
Well that’s disappointing… Milton industries fitting. Good thing I wasn’t spray full meth injection. Have to find something a little stronger, maybe move over to a metal fitting from Parker!?

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That looks like hot sticky just prepped for a run tires after warm up burnout and then running over bits left on track by previous car... Track prep not great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #294 ·
Small update but an important one if considering meth injection. Yea… water/meth sucks! Just run straight meth. Car runs way cleaner and stronger. I am gonna assume in my case water/meth is not necessarily required due to my engine build so adding water/meth reduced performance. To be honest I feel it was robbing 30-50whp. Switching to meth it cleaned right up quick.

further to that I went to single injection 500cc nozzle instead of twins. Given the fitting failure and the above discovery ill stay with the KISS method as the whole car is built around.

Consumption with a single 500cc… well I’ll fill the tank up in 2 years maybe. It’s very little with a boost phased controller. Right now I have it start at 5psi and full on at 15psi. I’ll probably trim that up to 13psi for a little extra safety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #296 · (Edited)
Timing update. Got a good handle on timing for the motor finally. The last week it has been around 25-30c (75-85f). For some reason I have always had cooling issues with big blocks. Done many things and always come back to timing. Well now it finally holds 188-192 on the highway and 190-195 city driving. Keep in mind I have a 4” thick a-a intercooler in front of the rad. Might go 1-2 degrees higher but for very minimal time. Anyways maybe someone more wiser than me can have a look at this timing chart and see if I am in the ball park. Seems like if I go higher with timing, so does the temp, maybe I am just not pushing it up enough. Many tell me 36 at cruise it what I should be but at 1700rpm that seems awful high. Yes standard baro around here is 87-92kpa. I’m sure this will be altered over time as I learn more!

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Discussion Starter · #297 ·
14 days and time for the next drag n drive event for me. miles of mayhem. Local event for Canada. Should be good, long one around 1200mi this year. Got a small list:
check timing and re-check rotor phasing
Index steering wheel
Change out sparkplugs
Get my street tires mounted on some rims
Change oil office size for the turbo
And re-bleed the throwout bearing(more of a double check)

other than that I feel more ready than last year, especially finishing up sick week without too much of a hitch.

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Discussion Starter · #298 · (Edited)
Well miles of mayhem is nuts. Test day went well licking of 6.80’s consistent.

race day today went well with a new personal best of 6.63 @ 109… 1.53-60ft!

but not without troubles this round. Lost a ignition box. As well my electric water pump is loosing power. Further to that the new ignition box is cutting outat 2700rpm.

ugh, hopefully I am not out as I believe I am second in runnings for stick shift class. Tomorrow gunning for a 6.50’s!

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Discussion Starter · #300 ·
“Your done!” As they say.

well I lost a ignition box late day yesterday, sniper coil driver packed it in I believe. So I went down and bought a 6al box, then found out sniper wouldn’t send a signal to that box for timing control. Re-wired a lot and then straight timed it with a locked out distributor. Ran great till…. Water pump controller starting malfunctioning, or at least I think. Electric water pump died 5 times in 1 mile. Decided to call it a day, just not worth burning a motor up due to heat or being stranded in the prairies when it’s +100f outside today.

5 drag n drive events complete this was the first to pack it in. REALLY sucks as I was 2nd in the stick shift class!

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