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Had them made for the car... I got a couple bumper stickers coming in as well. Should be good for a laugh when there done.
Boosted Beaumont Build
29678
322
So I thought I’d start a thread on my winter build. Every year I do something to upgrade the car.
Little history, the car is a 1968 Beaumont Custom, I have owned this car since 2002. It laid rest in a field for 4 years when someone completed a semi restoration on it. The winters we’re pretty harsh in the area so now it definitely has some patina. This car to date has been threw 4 motors 5 transmission and 2 differentials. It started out as a Smokey 350 motor with a 700r4 and Corp 10 belt setup. Now it is a 502, T56 Mag, s60 combo. There is also an array of suspension and chassis upgrades to get it where is is today. Overall the interior and exterior remain stock.
So this leads up to this winters upgrades!
After completing Drag Week 2018 I have realized that if a guy wants more power you don’t necessarily need a larger motor, just cheat with some boost. Originally when I got the 502 I was gonna boost it but held back as my power goals were low for boost. For the builds end outcome I am looking to achieve a dyno proven 800-850 crank horsepower/torque between 5-5500rpm. I am not sure if this is realistic but we will find out. I am limiting myself to this number as the bottom end will not support anymore than this.
The combo will be a single (twin scroll) Garrett turbo
Single wastegate
5” down pipe with a single 3.50” exhaust and boost activated cutout
Water to air intercooler
GM 502 short block
AFR305 heads
Straub hydro cam
Victor intake
Holley super sniper
New LSA twin disk clutch
All said and done hopefully I can complete this before Rocky Mountain Race Week
Little history, the car is a 1968 Beaumont Custom, I have owned this car since 2002. It laid rest in a field for 4 years when someone completed a semi restoration on it. The winters we’re pretty harsh in the area so now it definitely has some patina. This car to date has been threw 4 motors 5 transmission and 2 differentials. It started out as a Smokey 350 motor with a 700r4 and Corp 10 belt setup. Now it is a 502, T56 Mag, s60 combo. There is also an array of suspension and chassis upgrades to get it where is is today. Overall the interior and exterior remain stock.
So this leads up to this winters upgrades!
After completing Drag Week 2018 I have realized that if a guy wants more power you don’t necessarily need a larger motor, just cheat with some boost. Originally when I got the 502 I was gonna boost it but held back as my power goals were low for boost. For the builds end outcome I am looking to achieve a dyno proven 800-850 crank horsepower/torque between 5-5500rpm. I am not sure if this is realistic but we will find out. I am limiting myself to this number as the bottom end will not support anymore than this.
The combo will be a single (twin scroll) Garrett turbo
Single wastegate
5” down pipe with a single 3.50” exhaust and boost activated cutout
Water to air intercooler
GM 502 short block
AFR305 heads
Straub hydro cam
Victor intake
Holley super sniper
New LSA twin disk clutch
All said and done hopefully I can complete this before Rocky Mountain Race Week
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Quick Mexico trip with the race mode setup. Quit a difference between radial and slicks. 12psi on the street. Hooked better in 1st, worse in 2nd, and way better in 3rd compared to the radial. I’d imagine the air pressure is off or it just spins enough in 2nd to generate some heat and hook 3rd.
tire setup is 28” all around. Did this to help weight transfer to the back and it seemed to work. Bias ply stiff wall slick feels very stable right now, I’d imagine after a couple trips to the track they will soften up a bit.
![715106]()
tire setup is 28” all around. Did this to help weight transfer to the back and it seemed to work. Bias ply stiff wall slick feels very stable right now, I’d imagine after a couple trips to the track they will soften up a bit.
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Tested out the finished tire rack. Works great! Wife choose this colour. It’s a rippled gun metal very cool and will do the trick. Race event is 8 days away. Will be posting the results of track times and the drive.
really amazed at the cooling system now. 32c/90f and car never went above 203f cruising around town.
![715240]()
![715241]()
really amazed at the cooling system now. 32c/90f and car never went above 203f cruising around town.
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Well first day down for Miles of Mayhem!
what a crazy day,had a throw-out bearing fail on me 10km before a small town. Luckily I had a spare, did a complete swap in 3hours with the help of 5 other guys.
first pass short shifting was [email protected] with a 1.85 60ft
Second pass was a [email protected] with a 1.75 60ft.
lots left to bring in but keeping it conservative given the nature ofmy start now HAH!
what a crazy day,had a throw-out bearing fail on me 10km before a small town. Luckily I had a spare, did a complete swap in 3hours with the help of 5 other guys.
first pass short shifting was [email protected] with a 1.85 60ft
Second pass was a [email protected] with a 1.75 60ft.
lots left to bring in but keeping it conservative given the nature ofmy start now HAH!
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did you just change it on the side of the road like in the photo
that is dedication
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Dedication you bet. I got no choice, wife and kid are my co-pilots this time. buddy rich Guido gave me some muscle to help but yea all on the road. Freaking t56 mag is heavy on the ground like that. Mopar familia drove down to town and picked up 2 jackstands, brake fluid and some tranny fluid. Gatta update my list parts list hah!did you just change it on the side of the road like in the photo
that is dedication
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Today went for shit again but a better day.
3rd car in the staging lane a Teflon lined power steering hose burst. Blew fluid everywhere! So the quick remedy was brake clean the whole car down, cut the belt and make a hit.
7.25 @ 98 with a 1.63 60ft.
only one hit as the drive today was 6hrs. Did the complete 6hr drove with no power brakes or power steering. About 600km today.
goal at this point is a 6.90 on low boost before the event is done!
3rd car in the staging lane a Teflon lined power steering hose burst. Blew fluid everywhere! So the quick remedy was brake clean the whole car down, cut the belt and make a hit.
7.25 @ 98 with a 1.63 60ft.
only one hit as the drive today was 6hrs. Did the complete 6hr drove with no power brakes or power steering. About 600km today.
goal at this point is a 6.90 on low boost before the event is done!
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so that's unfortunate
any chance of having a hydraulic hose made that can substitute for the ps-hose??
functional steering and power brakes is a goal ...
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Day 3 was a better improvement again. Spun pretty good off the line as well through second for a bit. First passes were at 12psi, then second day was 11psi and today was 10psi. Going to go up to 14psi and should hook really well.
7.1 @ 99mph with a 1.53 60ft.
Drive was another 6hrs of love at 85-87f heat. Gas gauge died on the last 2hrs and just registered full all the time. Not sure what to think there, hopefully the hanger is just caught on something.
as for brakes and steering, just going to leave it. With a rupture I would have to locate the correct hose. With how messy that diagnosis would be I’ll leave it and drive with caution.
![716067]()
![716068]()
7.1 @ 99mph with a 1.53 60ft.
Drive was another 6hrs of love at 85-87f heat. Gas gauge died on the last 2hrs and just registered full all the time. Not sure what to think there, hopefully the hanger is just caught on something.
as for brakes and steering, just going to leave it. With a rupture I would have to locate the correct hose. With how messy that diagnosis would be I’ll leave it and drive with caution.
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Well today was not as good. Ran basically the same time with a worse 60ft. Aired the tires up to 14psi and it hooked like tomorrow. As a result I bogged off the line, it would have been a 7, but that’s racing. Only could make one pass today as a bad oil down happened. Pretty happy still though I’m 2nd in the pro street class standing. Tomorrow I’m gonna crank it up and try and steal first, gatta run a minimum of 6.80 for first place.
Ran 7.132 @ 100.33, 1.655 60ft. Time
Ran 7.132 @ 100.33, 1.655 60ft. Time
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Day 5 and done yesterday.
7.131 @ 101mph with a 1.699 60ft
so I tried to take first place yesterday but my tune was way to conservative and some electrically problems. Added 4psi of boost which should have been about an extra 140hp. In the end it didn’t make any extra power. Voltage was dropping enough to cause havoc on the fuel pressure and injectors. At the end I came second in pro street class which was big tire automatic cars. I am happy with the results.
plans coming up:
TUNE the car better, hit the dyno
Get a 2 step and boost builder setup for launch
Steel flywheel, aluminum sucks!
The icing on the cake, alternator died when leaving the track for home. Hah luckily I had a spare. Totalled 23-2400km from driving to the track, doing the event and then driving home. Wife and kid had a awasome time being my crew!
Staged
![716268]()
launch
![716267]()
7.131 @ 101mph with a 1.699 60ft
so I tried to take first place yesterday but my tune was way to conservative and some electrically problems. Added 4psi of boost which should have been about an extra 140hp. In the end it didn’t make any extra power. Voltage was dropping enough to cause havoc on the fuel pressure and injectors. At the end I came second in pro street class which was big tire automatic cars. I am happy with the results.
plans coming up:
TUNE the car better, hit the dyno
Get a 2 step and boost builder setup for launch
Steel flywheel, aluminum sucks!
The icing on the cake, alternator died when leaving the track for home. Hah luckily I had a spare. Totalled 23-2400km from driving to the track, doing the event and then driving home. Wife and kid had a awasome time being my crew!
Staged
launch
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Small update. Found the power steering problem. Pressure side hose from the hydro to the PS box. The hose was rubbing up against the inner fender a slight amount that it thinned out the steal braiding and it blew. Ultimately to fix the problem I installed a 45 bend off the box instead of the 90 bend.
![716939]()
![716940]()
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Well that looks problematic
went to change the engine oil after the big trip, noticed a gob of poly hanging off a tie rod end and yea. First picture is driver side, next is passenger side. Engine oil looked good for the engine still being fresh. Half dozen flakes in the pan, can’t complain.
anyone else have a solution, not switching to solids yet. Might try to find a heat shield or fabricate something.
![717147]()
![717148]()
went to change the engine oil after the big trip, noticed a gob of poly hanging off a tie rod end and yea. First picture is driver side, next is passenger side. Engine oil looked good for the engine still being fresh. Half dozen flakes in the pan, can’t complain.
anyone else have a solution, not switching to solids yet. Might try to find a heat shield or fabricate something.
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can you wrap the pipe that is causing the radiating heat melting the poly mount??
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they were originally wrapped with header wrap. At ends day i pulled the wrap off, i got tired of being incredible itchy just checking plugs.
thinking i will build a 2 piece front motor plate with isolation/vibration mounts or something.
looking at it closer there isn't much room for a heat shield.
thinking i will build a 2 piece front motor plate with isolation/vibration mounts or something.
looking at it closer there isn't much room for a heat shield.
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Nice read from the Road Warrior I'm impressed with your fabrications and roadside repairs.For a heat shield most starter heat shields are made from .0625 to .125 thick aluminum sheet.Make one 90* bend and a couple of holes to fit it to the MM then make your second bend by hand in place.Make it a little wider than the MM's.
I remember seeing 1 inch to 1.5" hoses directing air to cool underhood components on some stock vehicles.Something like that should work for you too as that melting probably occurs on longer drives vs. during strip time.
Some flexible hose with a homemade scoop of sorts with the end directed at the area might end that problem for you.Also I wonder if stock rubber MM's would melt as fast as the poly or take much longer to melt ? If you wanted to try something like that "McMaster Carr" (mcmaster.com) has a selection of flexible duct you could look at.
I'm impressed with your fabrications and roadside repairs.For a heat shield most starter heat shields are made from .0625 to .125 thick aluminum sheet.Make one 90* bend and a couple of holes to fit it to the MM then make your second bend by hand in place.Make it a little wider than the MM's.I remember seeing 1 inch to 1.5" hoses directing air to cool underhood components on some stock vehicles.Something like that should work for you too as that melting probably occurs on longer drives vs. during strip time.
Some flexible hose with a homemade scoop of sorts with the end directed at the area might end that problem for you.Also I wonder if stock rubber MM's would melt as fast as the poly or take much longer to melt ? If you wanted to try something like that "McMaster Carr" (mcmaster.com) has a selection of flexible duct you could look at.
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So I took the easy rout for now. Solid motor mount, not mounts hah. Just did the drivers side as this is the torque side. After looking at the construction of these energy suspension ones, there basically a solid mount in a compression state. So hopefully there isn’t to much gain in terms of vibrations for one solid installed. I got a pretty wicked idea for some new isolating mount stands. With the summer and race season being short around here I will wait till winter to fabricate these up.
here’s some pictures of the drivers mount. As the mount was ‘bonded’ to the engine stand I was forced to removed the bolts on the block and the 4 on the frame to complete the remove and replace. Didn’t need to pull the motor, just jacked it up a bit and slid it out.
![718200]()
![718201]()
![718202]()
![718203]()
here’s some pictures of the drivers mount. As the mount was ‘bonded’ to the engine stand I was forced to removed the bolts on the block and the 4 on the frame to complete the remove and replace. Didn’t need to pull the motor, just jacked it up a bit and slid it out.
201 - 220 of 323 Posts
