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Discussion Starter · #182 · (Edited)
Well this is a bit of old news on my end but shot happens. Got the car running again for the first time given the winter here. Reset the lifters and start it up. Guess what.... tick tick tick tick. Broke a poly-lok nut. I more than likely over-torqued it and broke the head off. Turns out these old comp cams pro magnum rollers, you can’t get replacement nuts. So had my buddy machine up a couple of news ones. Back in business.

if anyone is wondering, these are comp cams pro magnum chromoly rocker arms, the original design. Original I was just going to get a set of ultra pro magnum XD’s, turns out these are exactly the same minus The hardened pushrod seat. The regular ultra pro magnums use smaller trunnion bearings and no hardened seat.

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I ran into the poly lock problem before. Machine shop cut them down for me.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Small update again but I got the Brodix intake mounted on the engine. So just a little info on this. This was a 100% port match straight out of the box to my AFR 305 heads. Best match period! China wall to manifold height is 4.80”. Which is low but I shaved the carb pad down to 4.65”. You may get a little bit more but that is maximum in my opinion. This is substantially lower than any other manifold on the market. Sizing, here’s how I rank it as I have owned them all and still own half of these:

edelbrock rpm
Edelbrock rpm air gap
Weiand stealth
Edelbrock C-454
Brodix
Victor
Super victor

end of day results, the STOCK hood fits, even with that 4.25” tall carb hat. This is absolutely mint as this has elevated my sleeper street cred HAH. Test drive on how well it works this weekend. Stay tuned.

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
WOW, what a dramatic improvement. The more I go from single planes to dual planes for street use I am sold. Way more drivability, more manifold vacuum, better idle, cruise at 1500rwith no problems, and quicker spool on boost!

new air dam improves cooling 10degrees at least right now. Time will tell on the warmer days.

stock hood a improvement for cabin noise as well.

ill update again when I am applying boost from a performance stand point. First I need to re-work my advance curve, little too much right now.

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
I didn't think a dual plane would be all that noticeable on a boosted 540.
With the single plain and aluminum flywheel setup, driving was brutal. I switched over to a progressive linkage just to make it work. Even then I was not satisfied, so much so I was gonna go back to a 30lb flywheel to smooth it out

now it’s a dual plain with aluminum flywheel and running 1-1 carb linkage. Im So impressed now with drive ability I don’t feel I will need to switch back to my steel flywheel.

vacuum went from 45kpa all the way down to 30kpa, at some points it’s at 20kpa. I’d highly recommend this manifold to anybody running larger motor setups on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
Well here’s the start of a tire/camping/bike rack. Some adapter plates to the frame. Hopefully install goes as easy as I think it will when all done. More updates to hit.

PS - dual plane still rockin!

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
Well here’s a 95% done. Tire rack for the back!

I used some aluminum I had kicking around to keep it on the Cheap. Adapter plates are 5/8” thick 6061. 3x3 tubing with a 3/16 wall. Cross bars are a 1x2 with 1/8 wall. Pretty simple deal, mounts/dismounts in 15min. Built it as a cantilever install. Do up the back bolts and swing it up todo the other. Weights about 25-30lbs. Tire total weight is 120lbs for all 4. So all in all about 150lbs in total. Lucky for me I got some air bags stacked in the springs this year instead of footballs for air bags.
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Discussion Starter · #192 · (Edited)
Couple more.

angle cut the ends. I will file down the hard edges and then give it a good scotch bright job.

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1968 Malibu sport coupe, 489 ci. 590 hp 600 tq, RV T-400 Freakshow 3200 stall, 3.73 12 bolt posi
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If you don't mind me asking, what size tires are those drag radials? or race tires? thinking of trying 305/45r17" on my 68, and what compression is your motor for using boost?
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
If you don't mind me asking, what size tires are those drag radials? or race tires? thinking of trying 305/45r17" on my 68, and what compression is your motor for using boost?
those on the car right now are a 295/55r15 on a 15x10 rim. Street tires are a 275/60r15. New slicks will be a 28x10.5

this 540 is 8.3-1 compression. my 502 prior to this was 9.1-1. keep in mind i am totally pump gas deal, 91.
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
well since the border is still closed and cant cross for some good racing action the boys up here organized a drag n drive event. Miles of Mayhem. Anyone can sign up, i believe there are about 50 spots on a 200 list available still at this time. Registration is open to full mod to a 20sec beater. Anyone interested should sign up, be really cool to get a Canuck version going!
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Miles of Mayhem – MILES OF MAYHEM (milesofmayhemdnd.ca)
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Yup, added more power! Right now I’m having serious troubles with traction now. Pretty repetitively, it breaks the tires loose in 3rd gear, 45-4800rpm around 65-70mph. I figure the it’s the stock bump stops on the control arms. Just not allowing the suspension to keep transferring back to the rear. For street duty I might be limited to 6-7psi for keep drag radials hooked.

as well notice in picture below, pulled the boost controller setup and running just waste gate spring pressure now. Sniper is having glitch problems with the boost control functions. Not sure why but I’ll look into it after the event.

this is truly necessary for all the guys in the pits!

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I figured this one was necessary as it could be dangerous while running

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Well stepped up my game. There not street legal.... meh! Set of bias ply 28-10.5 stiff wall slicks. Should be a nice match for the ET fronts I got. Gonna do a rollout check and then try them out on the street. Total tire weight on this combo is 42lbs each. Pretty good I think overall. Sidenote, it looks like you could fit a 29-10.5 wide in the back with the right offset.

anyone know how to get the white letters off?

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
did you use tubes or ??
no tubes. Looking around on the net, it seems to be a toss up. figure ill try and save a couple bucks and some weight first. Plus with time limits I didn't necessarily want to go through the process of rim screws. hopefully it is the correct decision.
 

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i rubbed the inside of mine down with the green Palmolive dish soap
to seal up the pores in the tire, they then held the air nicely
red bead tack can help the slick from rotating on the rim.
to remove the white on the letters, use some of the non-clorinated carb cleaner on a rag or scotch brite pad...
great decals under the hood, did you have them made or find them somewhere??
 
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