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And... boom...

Figured out my lack of boost problem. Unfortunately at 12-15psi boost I am sure this was well over 8-850hp which exceeded the current fuel system, caused some detonation, and a connecting rod let go. Almost looks like 2 rods. Should have it put later today sometime.

Don’t ask if I am doing a LS conversion, the big block stays! :thumbsup:

Hopefully finding $5 right we’re I stopped is a good fortune 😉
That last pic is an ugly sight,showing through like that. :eek: Hopefully the damage is minimal
 

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Nice read from the Road Warrior (y)I'm impressed with your fabrications and roadside repairs.For a heat shield most starter heat shields are made from .0625 to .125 thick aluminum sheet.Make one 90* bend and a couple of holes to fit it to the MM then make your second bend by hand in place.Make it a little wider than the MM's.
I remember seeing 1 inch to 1.5" hoses directing air to cool underhood components on some stock vehicles.Something like that should work for you too as that melting probably occurs on longer drives vs. during strip time.
Some flexible hose with a homemade scoop of sorts with the end directed at the area might end that problem for you.Also I wonder if stock rubber MM's would melt as fast as the poly or take much longer to melt ? If you wanted to try something like that "McMaster Carr" (mcmaster.com) has a selection of flexible duct you could look at.
 
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Well that looks problematic

went to change the engine oil after the big trip, noticed a gob of poly hanging off a tie rod end and yea. First picture is driver side, next is passenger side. Engine oil looked good for the engine still being fresh. Half dozen flakes in the pan, can’t complain.

anyone else have a solution, not switching to solids yet. Might try to find a heat shield or fabricate something.

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One other thing that might be relatively inexpensive if you can fit them is to switch to the later models "clamshell" motor mounts as the motor mount bolts to the frame rail and the "clamshell" bolts to the block.The clamshell would actually block most of the heat just by their design & where they bolt up to the block.
Don't know if you could fit them but I doubt heat would affect even the stock ones as the factory switched to this type in 73 or so because the emission era's lean mixtures led to some higher exhaust manifold temps. Just a thought from a rambling mind. :cool:
 
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Sweet maple syrup!!!
856hp 986trq wheel at 5400rpm. Pump gas at 10.5psi.
So we drove a total of 4hrs to the dyno. Went to see my buddy with the dirty drag week dart! First pull after a 2hr haul was 750 wheel, even he was surprised hah!
we started at 7psi and went up to 10.5-11psi peak. At this horsepower level we decided not to keep going as the spark plug heat range was getting too hot NGK 5’s. As well there was a little spark scatter going on 1-2 runs so I will need to upgrade to a phasAble distributor rotor.

EGT system worked and boy I will tell you that brodix dual plane has wicked distribution. Difference was around 50f between all cylinders. #1 ran the hottest at 1500f I believe this is beachside of how the fuel swirls off the sniper throttle blades. That said it stayed the same moving up in boost.

also boostane for the win! With all the mid range timing in it I picked up well over 50hp/50trq running some octane boost between 3500-4500rpm. I’ll be honest, it’s the only shit I have seen work. This was done on a back to back test, no timing or boost changes.

so with 4psi left on the table that is a addition 150hp, I’ll break 1k whp on pump with a little juice when I am done
:)

I am pleased with the result especially as this is all built by myself. Only thing out sourced was block machine work.

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I have to admit it's one of the better build up's on TC.You might want to name it Turbeau
 
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