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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I am in the process of refreshing a 1972 Chevelle and need some advise.
I'm tackling this my self so any input is greatly appreciated.
When standing behind the car to get a good look at the lines of the body, I notice that the contour is not crisp or sharp. Obviously this needs to be re sanded and filled. I tried sanding this to see how it would go but quickly realized that I only create more valleys or uneven areas.
What should I use to sand these large areas or rear side panels. That small sanding block is not working. Any of you have the same headache?
What did you end up using as a sanding block?
Thanks,
JR
 

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You can get pretty much everything you need from this website.
http://www.eastwood.com/7-piece-sanding-block-kit.html
Yes, if you want to get ripped off. Eastwood targets the naivety of the hobbiest.There are other on line suppliers besides them. I never bought one thing there in 20 years.

To the OP: Your photo does not show anything. What is the car's overall condition and have any areas been butchered by the previous owner? Did someone throw a quickie on it to sell it? Are you attempting to block the paint that is on this car to obtain straightness? You need to investigate proper procedures. There are numerous threads here addressing them. Panel straightening and block sanding requires correct product usage, patience and being methodical.
 

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Yes, if you want to get ripped off. Eastwood targets the naivety of the hobbiest.There are other on line suppliers besides them. I never bought one thing there in 20 years.

To the OP: Your photo does not show anything. What is the car's overall condition and have any areas been butchered by the previous owner? Did someone throw a quickie on it to sell it? Are you attempting to block the paint that is on this car to obtain straightness? You need to investigate proper procedures. There are numerous threads here addressing them. Panel straightening and block sanding requires correct product usage, patience and being methodical.
Scott is this your new bandwagon to bad mouth Eastwood. Most hobbiests don't know where to find things and when they get a catalog that has everything in it, they will order from it. I have ordered from there and have never had a problem with anything I have bought from there.


As for the OP you can use anything that is long and straight for a sanding block. I have used 2x4 's, paint sticks, round PVC piping for curves. Even a sponge will work.
 

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Scott is this your new bandwagon to bad mouth Eastwood. Most hobbiests don't know where to find things and when they get a catalog that has everything in it, they will order from it. I have ordered from there and have never had a problem with anything I have bought from there.


As for the OP you can use anything that is long and straight for a sanding block. I have used 2x4 's, paint sticks, round PVC piping for curves. Even a sponge will work.
No it's not. They are entitled to their business practices just as anyone is. My words are kind in comparison, they have been referred to as "rapists" in another thread. How are people going to know to look elsewhere if not provided an option? And the internet can easily provide that info. It makes no sense to limit acquisition of products and supplies to one place, no matter what one is doing in any field or interest. For example: People flock to big box stores, Lowes and Home Depot, but shopping will reveal the same products can be purchased cheaper elsewhere. If Eastwood has the cheapest price for the identical product after looking at other suppliers, then that would be the wisest financial decision. This is an expensive business and hobby. I get the majority of supplies from my jobbers and bounce between them due to price differences. I also buy on line when they can't do better.
 

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Yes, if you want to get ripped off. Eastwood targets the naivety of the hobbiest.There are other on line suppliers besides them. I never bought one thing there in 20 years.

.
I don't know anything about their pricing, but they do target uninformed DIY'ers.
Home powdercoating, 1K products, etc.
I get their catalog and do occasionally find a new tool I have not seen, then I find someplace else to buy it.
 

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I used the flexible sanders, similar to these

I've never really done any major bodywork before attempting what I did, do maybe there weren't the correct tools, but my body is near perfect. Of course they weren't the only sanding tools I used. I also used some round conduit and paint stir sticks, but for big areas, you need something long to help eliminate waves in your sanding

As for Eastwood, I have certainly bought from them, but only if I can use a free shipping code. The post above made me chuckle a bit. I didn't look at who posted it, but as soon as I read it, I knew who it was, and I was correct
 

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I'd suggest you Google block sanding. There's tons of info on body work/block sanding etc. Probably more than you can read in a lifetime.

As far as blocks. I got a set of these, and I highly recommend them. If you don't want to spend this much, by 2 or 3 of them, not the whole set. They are adjustable, by removing the rods, so you can make them more flexible, depending on what you're sanding. These will really make the job go smoother for the beginner.
 

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Im in just learning too, i started out with a bunch of durablocks i bought from the paint store and they work good and have there place but after researching more and getting suggestions from the members here ive made several of my own blocks out of plexiglass, steal, paint sticks etc etc... These guys are pretty sharp an can guide you but like already posted you need to give up more information about your car...if its already in paint i dont think theres much you can do unless your ready to refinish it.
 

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, they have been referred to as "rapists" in another thread. .
Scott, glad you like my comment.

I don't use Eastwood's for a real good reason. I called them rapists because that's exactly what they are. They've been known to have contracts with vendors to produce items then once the first products come in Eastwood's voids the contract. Then magically alittle later a darn near same product winds up in their Spring catalog. :yes:

Their English wheel anvils STOLEN from a guy in Oklahoma, same for their English wheel, planishing hammer, and shrinking disc. Those are just the ones that I know of.
 

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Scott, glad you like my comment.

I don't use Eastwood's for a real good reason. I called them rapists because that's exactly what they are. They've been known to have contracts with vendors to produce items then once the first products come in Eastwood's voids the contract. Then magically alittle later a darn near same product winds up in their Spring catalog. :yes:

Their English wheel anvils STOLEN from a guy in Oklahoma, same for their English wheel, planishing hammer, and shrinking disc. Those are just the ones that I know of.


Sounds like the chinese.
 

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No it's not. They are entitled to their business practices just as anyone is. My words are kind in comparison, they have been referred to as "rapists" in another thread. How are people going to know to look elsewhere if not provided an option? And the internet can easily provide that info. It makes no sense to limit acquisition of products and supplies to one place, no matter what one is doing in any field or interest. For example: People flock to big box stores, Lowes and Home Depot, but shopping will reveal the same products can be purchased cheaper elsewhere. If Eastwood has the cheapest price for the identical product after looking at other suppliers, then that would be the wisest financial decision. This is an expensive business and hobby. I get the majority of supplies from my jobbers and bounce between them due to price differences. I also buy on line when they can't do better.
I hope you didn't take that the wrong way but I thought I saw you badmouthing them in another thread. I have used them a few times but tend to get the same stuff locally. But I have no complaints about them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, if you want to get ripped off. Eastwood targets the naivety of the hobbiest.There are other on line suppliers besides them. I never bought one thing there in 20 years.

To the OP: Your photo does not show anything. What is the car's overall condition and have any areas been butchered by the previous owner? Did someone throw a quickie on it to sell it? Are you attempting to block the paint that is on this car to obtain straightness? You need to investigate proper procedures. There are numerous threads here addressing them. Panel straightening and block sanding requires correct product usage, patience and being methodical.
Okayyyy....lol
Thanks for all the pointers.
I hate being taken so that was an ok warning for me.
The 3M sander looks pretty good. The car was done I think in a hurry so it has some flaws. If you look at the line the Chevelle has along the whole side, you see a wave and even a spot where it might need some filler. There are so few things I can pick up here at any store, so I'll look on the bet.
thanks allot for all the comments and remarks..lol
JR
 

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Keeping the body lines crisp or sharp requires some correct sanding. If you sand right on top of the line you will dull it or flatten it out. You sand with your block on either the top panel or the bottom panel but not on top of the line. You can tape one side of the line with maskng tape and sand to it. Then move the tape to the bottom and sand to it from the top panel. If you see a low in the line, you will need to add filler or tap the metal back out to get it correct. You have to use long sanding blocks when sanding these panels or you'll create little dips and gouges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Keeping the body lines crisp or sharp requires some correct sanding. If you sand right on top of the line you will dull it or flatten it out. You sand with your block on either the top panel or the bottom panel but not on top of the line. You can tape one side of the line with maskng tape and sand to it. Then move the tape to the bottom and sand to it from the top panel. If you see a low in the line, you will need to add filler or tap the metal back out to get it correct. You have to use long sanding blocks when sanding these panels or you'll create little dips and gouges.
Ok thanks. That is what I figured.
 

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That tape you have on your car looks more like some home use stuff, i would go to a paint store and buy some 3m or scotch green tape as it will hold up to the sand papper better... One thing you will learn fast is to use good materials.. The guy at my local paint shop was trying to help me out selling me cheap everything, im greatfull hes not out to rip me off but at the same time it cost me more becouse i ended up buying better stuff anyways. Im a noob at this also so i need every advantage i can get :) even the pros id imagine would struggle with cheap bondo, tape, sand papper etc!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That tape you have on your car looks more like some home use stuff, i would go to a paint store and buy some 3m or scotch green tape as it will hold up to the sand papper better... One thing you will learn fast is to use good materials.. The guy at my local paint shop was trying to help me out selling me cheap everything, im greatfull hes not out to rip me off but at the same time it cost me more becouse i ended up buying better stuff anyways. Im a noob at this also so i need every advantage i can get :) even the pros id imagine would struggle with cheap bondo, tape, sand papper etc!
Hmmmm I got this form the PPg paint guys's store.
I'll see if I can find the 3M tape here on the Island.
Thanks for the tip.
JR
 
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