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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
68 SS coupe, 4 speed

I am going to replace the body mount bushings on my 68 SS soon. After a search of the archives I can't find anything on my particular question.

Is it ok to put the car on jackstands in order to give me more room underneath while replacing the bushings and is there certain locations the stands should be placed.

I"m also undecided on rubber or poly bushings.

Thanks

Bill B.
 

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Place the jack stands under the suspension ( rear axle and front lower control arms) to prevent frame flexing - especially forward of the firewall. This prevents the front from sagging and giving a false geometry at the radiator core support bushings.
 

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I did frame on body mount replacememts. I felt it would be better if the car was supported by the suspension rather than the frame. It may not make a difference but I felt like it wouldn't induce any frame deviations if you didn't get the frame supported correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did frame on body mount replacememts. I felt it would be better if the car was supported by the suspension rather than the frame. It may not make a difference but I felt like it wouldn't induce any frame deviations if you didn't get the frame supported correctly.
Alan....Forgive me but I'm a bit confused. Are you saying you used jack stands in the locations Dream 66 did or was the car on the ground supporting it's own weight?
 

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Alan....Forgive me but I'm a bit confused. Are you saying you used jack stands in the locations Dream 66 did or was the car on the ground supporting it's own weight?
I used jack stands under the rear axle and under the front lower control arms.
 

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I had to get the car in the air so jackstands under the axle and front control arms as well.

I replaced one at a time so things weren't able to move just in case.

Maybe changing the subject but I use a 3/8" breaker bar to loosen, tighten, loosen very little at a time to clean the threads. Just cranking the bolts out often spins the cage nuts and then you're screwed. Same with other body bolts and invariably on those w/ clip nuts like inner fender to fender ones.
 

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Before you go and worry about getting room to work you should see how many actually move. You have read the horror stories right?
 

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I plan on replacing mine next winter, I'm spraying them now...

Couldn't you put the car on cement or wood blocks under the tires and then jack the suspension as needed?
 

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I replaced all of my body bushings this summer. Supported the car with HD jack stands under the rear axle and front suspension. I lubed the crap out of all the bolts with Kroil and waited till the next day to start backing off the bolts. Do NOT use an impact wrench on these bolts!!! I used a breaker bar and applied force as evenly as I could without jarring or banging the breaker bar with anything. I got every single one loose with very little effort. I then backed out all of the bolts from one side. I then borrowed a friends Porta Power and carefully lifted the body up enough to remove and replace each bushing one at a time. Then moved to the other side and finished replacing those bushings. Be patient with soaking the bolts with whichever penetrating oil you choose. Let it do it's job before trying to break the bolts free! Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Before you go and worry about getting room to work you should see how many actually move. You have read the horror stories right?
Believe me, I've read the stories and that's why I am asking questions first and getting a game plan down. I don't want to overthink the procedure but I'm worried about gaps etc. as I have absolutely no experience with that. I am also leaning toward rubber bushings if I can find good quality. I'm giving Hinshaw's a call this week. Any and all comments are greatly appreciated by the folks who have been there, done this.

Bill B.
 

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I've done a couple with the wheels on the ground. Place wood 4x4's the length of the rockers under each rocker and 2 bottle jacks on the floor on each side. Raise body slowly and evenly (two guys are better), AND at the same time drive wood wedges between the frame and rad support to keep the clip from sagging. Worked slick. Worst part is getting underneath to place the mounts and bolts. If I did it again I'd get the car up on stands or ramps to get more working clearance. Also a good idea to use a couple of big tapered punches in a few of the holes to maintain pre-lift alignment.
 

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Everyone has their method. The following is what I did.
Sprayed every bolt/nut plate with kroil , daily for about three weeks.
Went to the lumber yard and got four 8 x 8 wolmanized ties and cut each in half. I stacked them side by side so they made pieces approx 15 inches wide x 4 ft long under each wheel/tire that I jacked up and placed under the tires. I then put chalks at both rear tires. In front of and behind each rear tire. Now the car was off the ground and the underside was clear of obstructions.
Removed all the bolts on one side and loosened the bolts on the other side.
Took a 2 x 4 piece of lumber and cut it in half. Took the four foot pieces and screwed them together to make a 3 & 1/2 inch x 3 inch piece of lumber four ft long. I then cut a groove down the center of one side which i used to stradle the pinch weld on the rocker panel to jack up the car off the frame.
I used graphite impregnated poly bushings from Energy Suspensions as my reasoning was that they would be more durable than the rubber bushings and I believe they will be. Never have had a single squeak from them. Think I made the right choice on the bushings.
Replaced all my bolts with bolts from AMK products. Think I made the right choice there as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you Brad. That sounds like the way I may go for lifting the car and giving me clearance. Did you take any pics?

Another question comes to mind. Is the steering column or brake lines and such going to experience any stress lifting the body a couple of inches?

Bill B.
 

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Sorry Bill, I didnt take any pics. I didnt have any problems with steering or brake lines lifting the body enough to change out the bushings.
 

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Ron, You are on to something. What I did was loosen a bolt 1/4 turn then retighten it. Then loosen it 1/2 turn then retighten it. The loosen it 3/4 turn then retighten it and so forth. I believe that knocks off the corrosion a little at a time and disributes the penetrant.
 

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I wish I would have done what Bim suggested, I had three bolts that spun the cage nuts, I didn't have the patience though...
 

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I've done a couple with the wheels on the ground. Place wood 4x4's the length of the rockers under each rocker and 2 bottle jacks on the floor on each side. Raise body slowly and evenly (two guys are better), AND at the same time drive wood wedges between the frame and rad support to keep the clip from sagging. Worked slick. Worst part is getting underneath to place the mounts and bolts. If I did it again I'd get the car up on stands or ramps to get more working clearance. Also a good idea to use a couple of big tapered punches in a few of the holes to maintain pre-lift alignment.

Can someone go further into explaining exactly WHERE those alignment holes are? I have a 64 tempest and a 66 chevelle.
 

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Ron, You are on to something. What I did was loosen a bolt 1/4 turn then retighten it. Then loosen it 1/2 turn then retighten it. The loosen it 3/4 turn then retighten it and so forth. I believe that knocks off the corrosion a little at a time and disributes the penetrant.
Hi - I was wondering... if I manage to knock off the corrosion and get the bolts out without spinning the cage nuts, will the nuts themselves still be in good enough shape to use with new bolts?

Should I consider changing the nuts regardless of whether or not they spin???

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I ordered mount bushings and all new hardware from Hinshaw's today. I spent 4 hours in the man cave drilling holes over the cage nuts and started soaking in PB Blaster. I"m going to do that for a week or so. I took pics. of the holes I drilled for reference and posting here on the site. Perhaps it will help someone out. I'm not sure in what order the pics will show when I post. First pic is position 2, 2nd pic is position 6, 3rd is position 7, and 4th and 5th pics are position 4. Positions are from the 68 assembly manual. I'll be happy to explain in more detail if need be. I'm going to get a hole saw and make 2 inch holes where I drilled and put plugs in when I'm finished. Someone will thank me 45 years from now.

Bill B.
 

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