What is the easiest way to do body bushings on a 1969 el camino? I know I can't just undo all of them and raise the car off of the frame, and I would rather not take the front clip apart to pull it off the frame. So do I just loosen the back half and jack the car a hair up just enough to take out the old and install the new, or what is the best and easiest way to install new body bushings on this old beauty?
Body Bushings
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I'd replace the 2 radiator support bushings 1st. Then I would remove all the body bolts on one side of the car.
Raise that side with several floor jacks with pieces of plywood so you don't dent the floor braces. Then replace the bushings/bolts.
Then with one side done, do the same on the other side. If it's done this way, you won't have the body moving out of alignment.
Keep in mine, you may have trouble getting the body bolts out, if they're rusted very much. You will want to soak the threads before removing them. You will have to drill small holes above the cage nuts, to spray the threads.
Also remember El Camino's have bushings on the rear crossmember, that aren't on Chevelles.
Raise that side with several floor jacks with pieces of plywood so you don't dent the floor braces. Then replace the bushings/bolts.
Then with one side done, do the same on the other side. If it's done this way, you won't have the body moving out of alignment.
Keep in mine, you may have trouble getting the body bolts out, if they're rusted very much. You will want to soak the threads before removing them. You will have to drill small holes above the cage nuts, to spray the threads.
Also remember El Camino's have bushings on the rear crossmember, that aren't on Chevelles.
Garrett,
Like Bill says, do one side at a time. I can't stress enough the need to soak your body bolts/cage nuts. Patience is the operative word here. I would strongly recommend soaking every other day for a week before even trying to remove the bolts.
I'm not entirely sure that drilling holes to squirt penentrant is necessary. I was able to "lubricate" all of the body bolts/nuts on my '70 Elky by simply utilizing various holes in the frame. I had 100% success in removing all of my bolts with no incidents and it's not a California or desert car so rust was definitely a factor.
There's been a ton of stuff written on the subject (too much, actually) so don't be shy about doing a search. You'll find lots of opinions about how to go about it but the bottom line is simply where your own comfort level is.
My recommendation would be to remove your bolts the same way you would use a thread tap to clear metal chips as you tap a hole - only just the opposite. Apply enough pressure to just get your bolt started. No more that 1/8th of a revolution. Then screw the bolt back in slightly and repeat the process. By working each bolt back and forth, you're removing the rust that has built up on the end of the bolt a little bit at a time - which has to pass through the cage nut in order to be removed. If you take your time and have patience, your chance of success of not breaking loose a cage nut will be much, much greater. It's time consuming but it sure beats snapping off a bolt or breaking loose a cage nut.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
p.s.: Don't, repeat don't, open either of your doors while you have your car jacked up and are doing your bushing swap.
Rich
Like Bill says, do one side at a time. I can't stress enough the need to soak your body bolts/cage nuts. Patience is the operative word here. I would strongly recommend soaking every other day for a week before even trying to remove the bolts.
I'm not entirely sure that drilling holes to squirt penentrant is necessary. I was able to "lubricate" all of the body bolts/nuts on my '70 Elky by simply utilizing various holes in the frame. I had 100% success in removing all of my bolts with no incidents and it's not a California or desert car so rust was definitely a factor.
There's been a ton of stuff written on the subject (too much, actually) so don't be shy about doing a search. You'll find lots of opinions about how to go about it but the bottom line is simply where your own comfort level is.
My recommendation would be to remove your bolts the same way you would use a thread tap to clear metal chips as you tap a hole - only just the opposite. Apply enough pressure to just get your bolt started. No more that 1/8th of a revolution. Then screw the bolt back in slightly and repeat the process. By working each bolt back and forth, you're removing the rust that has built up on the end of the bolt a little bit at a time - which has to pass through the cage nut in order to be removed. If you take your time and have patience, your chance of success of not breaking loose a cage nut will be much, much greater. It's time consuming but it sure beats snapping off a bolt or breaking loose a cage nut.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
p.s.: Don't, repeat don't, open either of your doors while you have your car jacked up and are doing your bushing swap.
Rich
I agree with the above, did my 67 and broke 1 bolt out of 14...not bad. You can access the 2 cowl support bushing by loosening inner fender shield. No such thing as to much/to often PB Blaster. I used a 4x4 with a grove cut length wise for the body pinch welds to seat (also keeps board from rolling out of place) and jacked up one side at a time. Have ALL bolts loose and the side your working on bolts removed. It's a worth while project...
I agree with all of the above, but would like to add a bit. When you are lifting the body , do it just enough to change the mounts. I did too much lifting and found that the fender extension on a '72 vehicle contacts the inside of the front bumper and gets broken. Another thing is Safety. Before you reach into that gap between the frame and body, place a wood block on top of the frame. That way , if the jack goofs up, you will not get pinched.
You are referring to bushings above the rear axle, correct? Were these bushings floating or bolted? I have heard they were bolted but my 70 had floating bushings.
Best,
Tom
No bolt is correct.
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Just for info, the elky body is much stiffer than one might think.
When I reconditioned my frame, I didn't want to take the car apart so I lifted the body entirely, front end and hood included, and held it on only the tip of four 1½"-wide wood supports (had to clear the frame to remove it). Only the bench seat, the battery and the battery tray were removed before dropping the frame.
It stayed up there for months, I was opening the doors (although I don't recall more than one at a time) and I even removed the smuggler box lid, while I was working in the bed. I did all this with some fear, as I'm usually not the cowboy and adventurous type, but it was very solid and I never felt my life (or my car) was in danger.
Although, this might not be the easiest way to do only body bushings.
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