Blownchevelle's '70 Touring Build

17813 Views 62 Replies 18 Participants Last post by Blownchevelle68, Jul 24, 2015

Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · Feb 19, 2012 (Edited)

4

Hello everyone,

I purchased my '70 almost 2 years ago now and have done alot of work to date but did'nt post any pics of what I've done. So im going to start now as this year Im making a few more upgrades and I'd like to keep track of progress and have others comments and suggestions as well.

When I bought the car the brakes were spongy, the engine reminded me of something out of a old dump truck but the interior and paint was in nice shape. It needed the usual cleaning up in the engine bay, wires were kinda thrown about, spliced here and there, not taped, burned plug wires-the usual. The paint was shiny but appears to have not been wet sanded and has some minor flaws in it. Windshield was cracked so that was one of the first items to be replaced.

Here are pics of the car when I picked it up. I'll start posting more pics as I go along. The future plans are to make this into a Touring style ride mainly for the weekly car cruise and long distance cruises a couple times a year. I've built many straight-line performance cars but wanted to try something new.

Here in the next few weeks I will be building a 12 bolt rear and hoping to finish it along with a handfull of small repairs before Power Tour. We're heading to Champaign, IL then south to Madison, IL before heading back home. Once we're back from PT, the cars suspension will be replaced with a UMI Stage 3 suspension complete with tubular control arms, adjustable rear UCA and boxed LCA, sway bars and 2" lowering springs. I'm still not sure on rims yet but will be 18X9 front and 18X11 rears.

Thanks for any comments and check back often. I may not post every week as this build will be spread out over the next year or so.

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Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #2 · Feb 20, 2012 (Edited)

6

I decided to pull the old tired 355 out and replace it with a 383. This engine was old and starting to leak oil out the front main so it had to go:

Using the same block we bored it .060 over (had to go that far to clean up) and used a Eagle rotating assembly with cast crank, I beam rods and KB Hyper flat top pistons. We also installed a Lunati Voodoo 60103 hyd cam, lifters and springs. GM 441 heads with stainless 2.02/1.60 valves, Performer intake and new Summit ignition. I also had a local exhaust shop bend new 2 1/2" exhaust with a H pipe, Flowmaster Delta's and custom tailpipes that tuck up behind the rear wheel, just showing a stainless steel tip.

Just after I had the engine back together I took out second gear on the TH400 so it was pulled and built with a Hughes Performance kit and Coan 2800 stall.

I also pulled the factory steel wheels (incorrect year, I know) and repainted. New BFG 275-60-15 rears and 255-60-15 fronts. All new brakes and hardware as well.

This week it's going back up on blocks to pull the 10 bolt in favor of a 12 bolt. Putting it together with Yukon Duragrip carrier, steel clutches and 400lb springs. Going with a 3.55 gear, Strange 30 spline axles and welding Ford ends so I can use bolt in axles and not have to run C-clip eliminators. I also have a fuel leak issue when the tank is filled, so I'll be dropping the gas tank as well to figure this out. I'll post pics of this next step later this week.

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FiredUp396

· #3 · Feb 20, 2012

Man, Jason I bet you were mad to just get the motor in and your trans goes bad.Looks like a nice looking car.Not sure if your aware but in the transmission and driveline section there is a guy called biggearhead he is the rear diff guru here @ team Chevelle he can build and supply you with a killer diff.Super nice guy to deal with.I'll be watching your build have fun with it.
Jeff

Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #4 · Feb 20, 2012

Thanks Jeff! We had planned on attending the 2010 Power Tour and had just finished the engine a week before the transmission went out. We took the trans back out, got it to a friend who works in a transmission shop and we had it back in the car in 3 days finishing the night before the Tour.

Then we ran into problems with blowby occuring and throwing oil out through the breathers. Come to find out my machine shop sold me a bad head where the valve guides were so wore out and the head was warped. That took us out of the Tour. Yeah I was a little peeved to say the least

FiredUp396

· #5 · Feb 20, 2012

Sounds like the mean guy that sold me bad heads except it took my whole motor down washed the walls and did in the cam Springs on the heads were way to much for the cam I took out my rear diff last night it is going to get a Eaton Posi with 3:55 Motive gears

cooperhw

· #6 · Feb 20, 2012

Nice 70 you got going there.

I "had" a beautiful 70 SS red with black stripes LT-1 fuel injected motor and I got this hair up my b*tt and wanted to do another 66 or 67 with an LS-2.
Fast forward almost 2 years and my 67 is still not back together.

What the h*ll was I thinking?

Been soooooooooooo much work and I am getting pretty darn tired of it. This is the last one. (If I ever get it done)

Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #7 · Feb 21, 2012

8

Today I got the 'velle up on stands and took a few pics of what I have to work on. Also sprayed all the nuts down with PB Blaster to soak for a couple days.

Cant wait to get this old cruddy suspension out in the fall and replace with all new UMI componets.

Got the 12 bolt stripped and degreased. Will have it at the shop this week and hope to have it back by next week.

The guy before me put in a new trunk floor and passenger quarter. However they left out the trunk filler panel so this is the temporary fix that is not working very well. Going to get the correct filler panel and see if I can get it in there without bending it too badly.

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Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #8 · Feb 21, 2012

cooperhw said:
Nice 70 you got going there.

I "had" a beautiful 70 SS red with black stripes LT-1 fuel injected motor and I got this hair up my b*tt and wanted to do another 66 or 67 with an LS-2.
Fast forward almost 2 years and my 67 is still not back together.

What the h*ll was I thinking?

Been soooooooooooo much work and I am getting pretty darn tired of it. This is the last one. (If I ever get it done)

Thanks! So how was it putting the LS in the '67? I'm starting to contemplate a LS engine for this project as well, but not very certain on how hard it will be, not to mention expensive.

zipsimons

· #9 · Feb 21, 2012

makes me wish I started with something a little better than what I did! lol definitely a clean car. I used the UMI rear upper and lowers... great pieces! I have not driven the car yet though so I really can't rate them credibly yet.. as far as debating the LS route; that just depends on you budget and timeline. I'd almost suggest get it back on the ground and think on it!

zip

Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #10 · Feb 22, 2012

Thanks Zip-yeah I really need to think it through. I'm starting to lean towards a stroker big block with a Procharger. We'll see!

Tomorrow the rear comes out along with the gas tank. I've found 2 small spots that look like epoxy or JB Weld on the bottom of the gas tank along with a decent sized dent in the tank. Considering this and the leak that forms once I fill the tank, I'm pretty sure it just needs a new tank.

The springs look questionable also. I was planning on just a quick rear end swap for now because after Power Tour the whole suspension gets replaced. But I may have to do springs and possibly UCA and LCA now.

I will post pics and progress tomorrow.

zipsimons

· #11 · Feb 22, 2012

Sounds great!

Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #12 · Feb 23, 2012

6

Today we started taking the rear end out. This proved to be quite a chore as everything was rusted in and would not budge. After breaking a couple sockets, we decided to try a Sawzall on the LCA bushing and bolt. Which just ended up taking too many blades to accomplish.

So on the other side we ran into the same problem, so we broke out the big blue wrench :yes:

I did find some home-made looking spring clamps or hold downs that Im pretty sure are not supposed to be there-But i took some pics and wanted to see what everyone else thought.

This clamp was on the lower end of the coil spring:

And I know this is not supposed to be used. This is a small weight used for a dumbell in a gym. This is a 1 1/4lb weight used along with a muffler flange to hold the passenger side lower end coil spring to the differential. Somehow this did not come apart while I was driving!!

This was holding in the coil spring at the top, on each side..Is this a correct item to be there???

We finally got the rear end out and started looking over the gas tank-It was not looking good at all, so we pulled it out. Once we got it down, we noticed it had been leaking at 3 different locations on the top of the tank, plus the base of the filler neck. This will be released by a new Spectre brand tank and RobbMC 1/2" fuel pickup.

The rear gets delivered to the shop tomorrow for a complete build. I'll order a new gas tank and parts as well.

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Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #13 · Feb 27, 2012

3

Today I finished up treating the rust on the differential. Last night I started with a wire brush attachment in my drill and got most the rust I could, followed up by 80 grit sandpaper. Next I sprayed the entire piece down with PPC brand rust remover called Phix. This started breaking down the rust and after a couple coats it had removed quite a bit. Once it gets down to bare metal it leaves a zinc phosphate coating to protect it from rusting again.

This afternoon I sprayed it down with a rust encapsulator to ensure those areas where I could not reach would get treated. Supposedly this will coat the rust and turn it into a black paintable surface. After 24 hours I can start coating with a self etching primer.

Next I will spray with a self etching primer, followed up by a primer sealer, then Eastwoods Chassis Black paint. But I'll wait until it returns from the shop. This week it gets built with a Yukon Duragrip carrier, Richmond Gears 3.55, 33 spline Moser axles, Moser Ford style ends and all new bearings. Hoping to have it back in about 3 weeks.

I'll be ordering a new Spectra fuel tank, RobbMC 1/2" factory style pickup and new fuel line. Along with new springs and a couple bushings, I should be ready for the new rear once they finish.

Will keep you updated as I progress. Thanks for looking!!

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fleming23

· #14 · Feb 27, 2012

Nice progress! You'll be much happier when the rear has all new and/or cleaned up parts.

TBotnen

· #15 · Feb 27, 2012

6

nice rig:yes::yes:here's another blown chevelle.:yes::yes:

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Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #16 · Feb 27, 2012

TBotnen said:
nice rig:yes::yes:here's another blown chevelle.:yes::yes:

Great looking ride!! I really wanted to build a roots blown small block at one time but going to go the centrifigul route this time. :thumbsup:

riskyvt

· #17 · Feb 28, 2012

Jason-

Just going over your thread on the conversion to a blown Touring build...should be an awesome car. One thing I noted, and wanted to discuss with you...I saw a picture of a restored '71/'72 SS wheel, then read what you wrote just above the image. You stated you're using BFG 275/60-15 radials on the rear of the car. Just so you know, BFG recommends a wheel width range for that size tire at 7.5 to 9.5", but your SS wheels are 7" wide. I realize the tire will mount OK, but I hate to think of what would happen if it were to roll off the bead under driving conditions. It is this very reason why I changed plans and used American Racing Torq-Thrust D's with 8.5" width. Something to consider...

kens71elcky

· #18 · Feb 29, 2012

good looking car keep us informed of how it turns out

Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #19 · Feb 29, 2012

riskyvt said:
Jason-

Just going over your thread on the conversion to a blown Touring build...should be an awesome car. One thing I noted, and wanted to discuss with you...I saw a picture of a restored '71/'72 SS wheel, then read what you wrote just above the image. You stated you're using BFG 275/60-15 radials on the rear of the car. Just so you know, BFG recommends a wheel width range for that size tire at 7.5 to 9.5", but your SS wheels are 7" wide. I realize the tire will mount OK, but I hate to think of what would happen if it were to roll off the bead under driving conditions. It is this very reason why I changed plans and used American Racing Torq-Thrust D's with 8.5" width. Something to consider...

Thanks for the info!! I did not check this before buying the tires and actually was supposed to replace the wheels awhile ago, but have not yet. Im in the process of finding some nice used Weld Draglites for now until I purchase the new wheel/tire combo sometime next year after the suspension is done. Thanks Again !! :beers:

kens71elcky said:
good looking car keep us informed of how it turns out

Thanks !!

Blownchevelle68

Discussion Starter · #20 · Feb 29, 2012

5

Finished priming the differential this afternoon. It will be going to the shop Thursday. First coat was etching primer followed by primer sealer.

Used a small sandblaster on the backing plates and they turned out great!!

Before:

After:

I started looking into why I have no dashlights today. Turn signal indicators do work but the left hand turn indicator stays on steady when the lights are turned on. I checked the fuse panel and the 4amp fuse was blown. So I pulled the dash pad off and looked down at the backside of the switch and found where it got a little warm at one time!!

Im going to try and find a short pigtail section and replace. I also found what I think is the ground wire, but Im not sure where this attaches??

If anyone knows let me know!! Thanks!

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